rlackore

I apologize for clogging this thread with useless info - I had no idea that Chief had a native screen capture tool.

Consider downloading Substance Player and using the free tile builder to create your tile. Currently, there isn't an option for glass tile, but you can get reasonably close using the metal material, and maybe they would add glass if you request it in the thread.

Perhaps I don't understand. Are you trying to capture the image of the tile shown in the web browser, or the image of the material as rendered in the Chief program window?.

Can you right-click on the image and "Save image as"?

There are a bunch of payware options for those vehicles. If it's really important, maybe your client is willing to fork out the $100 bucks or so per model.

For the lower part of the wall, break the wall at the living room intersection and change the wall type.

For the upper part of the wall, select it and change the roof options for Lower Wall Type if Split By Butting Roof:

These steps will give you brick on the outside, drywall on the inside. You'll need to fiddle with some clean-up, but this should get you headed in the right direction.

I have never been successful in breaking a 3D Molding Polyline, so I've always assumed it's not possible.

9 minutes ago, Alaskan_Son said:

 

 I think vapor barrier was a poor choice of words to describe the Tyvek building wrap/air barrier mentioned in the OP. 

Agreed.

9 minutes ago, Alaskan_Son said:

 

Anyway, most rigid insulation works as ... a vapor barrier if it's properly sealed at the edges.

In my experience this is true only if it's foil-faced, otherwise, most unfaced products are considered a Class I vapor retarder (vapor semi-impermeable, 0.1 to 1.0 perms) at thicknesses of greater than 1 inch, and a Class II vapor retarder (vapor semi-permeable, 1.0 perm to 10.0 perms) at thicknesses of one inch or less.

1 hour ago, Alaskan_Son said:

 

 

These are both very dangerous pieces of advice for some of the colder northern climate zones. 

Perhaps in Alaska where you encounter subarctic and arctic conditions, but in my opinion, an "intelligent" vapor retarder is suitable as the interior vapor control layer in cold climates. Latex paint is also a possibility, but because it's always vapor permeable (i.e. not hygroscopic - its permeability doesn't adjust to the indoor relative humidity), you have to make sure you've got a good air barrier and can limit air movement into the wall at penetrations, etc. 

So, what's the basis of your opinion?

I'm going to throw in my two cents on the vapor barrier issue.

Depending on the climate zone, local codes may require an interior vapor barrier - the old standby was sheet polyethylene, which is still used and is a true vapor barrier (0.1 perm or less). Nowadays it's preferable to use a vapor semi-impermeable vapor retarder (1.0 perm or less, and greater than 0.1 perm) instead of a vapor barrier. As Alan mentioned, the Pro Clima Intello Plus, imported by 475, is a good product, but it can be difficult to source in some parts of the country. I recommend the Certainteed Membrain, which is also an "intelligent" vapor retarder.

Tyvek, and similar "housewraps", are generally vapor permeable (10 perms or greater), and are intended to act as an air and weather barrier, not as a vapor retarder (or vapor barrier).

The polylines need to be closed. First, clean things up a bit - the left brace has some extra lines - then select all the lines and make certain they all have identical properties (Line Style tab). In this screenshot, you can see that the lines don't have the same Weight:

After you've made the lines identical, then they will "close" properly, and you will get the option to convert them to a polyline solid.

Can you please post a screenshot showing the condition? Posting the plan also works.

I suggest adding the thickness of the furring strips to the thickness of the siding - IOW, use a single wall layer to account for both materials. This is my strategy for rain screens and air spaces. However, this method won't provide an accurate Section or an accurate Material List.

FWIW, I don't include the CI as a separate wall layer either - everything to the exterior of the sheathing I roll into a single layer, then I use details, sections, text, and the exterior elevations to communicate the wall construction. But this is a personal choice - everyone has different needs and preferences.

When a PDF is created, filled areas are broken into multiple triangles. Some PDF viewers have difficulty displaying these triangles properly, and the result is the imperfect smoothing (anti-aliasing) at the boundaries. The printed output should be correct - it's just the on-screen display that is wonky. These articfacts can be better or worse depending on:

1) The complexity of the filled area's geometry.

2) The DPI of the exported PDF.

3) The PDF printer.

4) The PDF viewer.

Check your PDF viewer's options, and turn off anti-aliasing; this may provide a more acceptable on-screen result.

1 hour ago, GeneDavis said:

It's a minor detail, but when joining wood framing to ICF walls, there is always the need for the tie.  Here is what I have used for every ICF job I've drawn or built:  https://www.mudsupply.com/Simpson-ICFVL-p/909200743.htm?gclid=Cj0KCQjws536BRDTARIsANeUZ58jqTmNY-3U99byqV-Q1GVhS8QVnG-AqSDe_2HO6Uk7Gt99nHk3iz8aAlBdEALw_wcB

Gene, I've specified those frequently for ledger connections but have never considered using them for interior framed walls - it's an interesting solution. Simpson doesn't publish a lateral load capacity in the 'F2' direction, otherwise, these could be used to brace interior framed shear walls instead of cutting back the form. Thanks for the tip.

It doesn't have to. The only scenario I can think of where it would be absolutely necessary is if the interior framed wall was being used for lateral load transfer, in which case you would probably want to be in line with the concrete core of the ICF. Because the embedded webbing in an ICF generally runs vertically, it's common for an interior framed wall to not align with the webbing (which you can screw the end stud to). And, depending on the manufacturer of the ICF, some corner units have a vertical web just on either side of the corner, so problem solved. The framer can always brace the wall to the floor or roof/ceiling.

I'm not sure this is the best solution: Existing_2.plan

There are little slices of roof plane I can't eliminate:

22 hours ago, josbrp said:

 

I think im doing something wrong because my walls dont change after aligning them and fixing the roof.

mac111111.plan

Select the roof plane on the first floor and move it up to the second floor, then select the relevant edge and drag it against the 2x6 exterior wall that is aligned with the wall below. You can then move the roof plane back down if you want.

Study the attached plan to get you started. You can accomplish most of this by setting the Roof properties within the Wall Specification dialog box for each wall. ShedGableShed.plan

Don't forget you'll need to shed water from this area:

The near wall can be selected and dragged up out of the way. I'm not sure if there's a more automatic solution for that wall - someone smarter than me may be able to figure it out.

For the far wall, you need to align the wall below with the wall above; then drag the roof edge against the upper wall, then your setting should work:

You can turn this behavior on/off in Preferences:

That cursor indicates that you have angle snaps turned off. Turn angle snaps on, and the icon will disappear.