MarkMc

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  1. I fiddled a bit then took elevation, detail from view, got the silhouette and pasted in place, converted to solid, put on attic wall layer. Used scissor truss
  2. Cabinet DBX, back, custom, side panel inset. Then select a door symbol. If you have a tambou door symbol use that for the side panel inset. IF you don't but have a material for the tambour then use a slab door symbol that is unique (save to user library with a different name-slab 1) IF neither and you need a tambour symbol I make them from moldings. If you need the back of the cabinet to be different than the inside face of the symbol then you need a symbol with two colors.
  3. I believe you mean the point markers. Don't use Point to Point dimensions. Read up on dimension defaults in the help (F1 key)
  4. Are you sure about that? this is the only way I can automatically get the second label .
  5. From help (F1 key) while in preferences...
  6. I usually do it using the drop down for text style in ALDO.
  7. In the object DBX, Options, sits on a base cabinet or table. OR in the general tab, finished floor to bottom. If the object is in your user library, you can change it before placing (maybe make a duplicate first. If not in user library place on the floor, open and change height off floor. IF the object you are trying to place in on has a higher bounding box than where you want it set (like a washing machine or stove with a head) and your object floats above it lower the object using tansform replicate, z axix OR you can't drag it in place when at correct height hold down the control key
  8. You can use the match properties tool, ctrl+J on my system or this icon. Other Properties, Automatic description should do the trick.
  9. There's an icon to change the CAD layer. I use that often to change the layer. My PVs are set to either Never Save or Prompt so the change can be temporary.
  10. Yes there is. The method I use requires 4 custom cabinet door symbols per width or type of bead (1/2" round, 3/8"round, cove, etc) Then there is up cabinets. The main door and drawer styles can be changed leaving the beads alone. I offer plans and libraries for sale. 1/4 beaded, 16 cabinets 1/4" beaded for combined, 7 cabinets (which you need depends on how you order the cabinets- I need both) 3/8 beaded, 6 cabinets base only elite cove, 7cabinets beaded with chamfers, 19 cabinets A Library with 1/4, 3/8. and cove bead for all sides- and two types of chamfers. PM me if interested.
  11. I had expected to need notched shelves but you don't unless you want a cap between them and the med cabinet for realism. They will not protrude into the cabinet.
  12. Make a solid, cut a hole in it, convert to cabinet door. Used a framed cabinet set separation to suit.
  13. I did it a little different than Rene. Note this is time consuming, not simple stuff.... I made a door symbol from parts I had in the library-legs, crosspiece and a slab door. That can be 3 symbols that all go in the front with differing offsets OR one that goes in the center and another that goes in the the side faces. I think that is easier but the picture and first dbx is the first one (I tested the second though)dbx follows. NOTE that the left and right stiles are set to 0" on both of these. Since it does return across the entire front I used a loose molding line under the counter. Not knowing what construction you were after I used 3/4 separations and inset. Need some small changes for overlay. Second version with one symbol set in center and another set in each side.
  14. Had a play with this. Used pony walls there were copies of room divider set to 4-1/2" wide with lower wall a default 4" interior. Works no issue so my guess is it's how you made your pony wall? I also tried setting that room with a shelf ceiling and that worked (better) assuming you do want a ceiling. OH just saw this is in Tips which are a place for folks to post tips and tricks they use for solutions, questions should go into Q & A.