MarkMc

I can't reproduce the problem. I'd start by saving and reopening, maybe even reboot. Try a new file and see if that does it. Post plan with problem.

Just this time. Place a cabinet in plan so it is NOT next to another cabinet, open it, set toe kick to closed toe-always present. Close the DBX Hold the shift key down, select the cabinet, now in the bottom toolbar select make architectural block, done. The extension will not go away when placed next to another cabinet. IF you want only one side to extend, AND need to move it around for some reason then place the cabinet next to another cabinet do the above. If you don't like the little artifact of the cabinet side that shows in up in the toe area on the side that does not extend down, set that side of the cabinet to NONE. If having no side bothers you there is a work around placing a symbol for the side in the back (I'm not going to go into the how to for that.) The shift to make a block trick has been on the forum in the past. No idea who posted it but that is how I learned about it. When I saw it I tried it so I would remember. No idea if it was for this particular use or something else but thanks to whoever posted it. I don't do videos except occasionally for clients that I have agreed to do training for. I post things that are meant to be tried out- take a trip down the rabbit hole. If someone does try and then runs into trouble then asks a specific question I answer it. Maybe think about taking a risk at learning by trying. Often you find out interesting things you did not know when stuff does not work. Given a choice between- I can be right (it should just do this) or I can get what I want ( go down the rabbit hole and find a way around it) I prefer the latter.

look at the cabinets on the left in the picture and READ what it says about blocking. Sorry but I must have unblocked the cabinet on the left when taking the picture. Blocking does what you want easily. To get rid of the artifact of the toe on the right set that side to none.

Exactly correct. Molding is first done in the cabinet DBX so it stays with cabinet if you move it. NO the cabinet is set on the floor, toe height and depth set o 0", bottom separation removed and no bottom. The 3 sided symbol becomes a door as part of the cabinet. Again so it moves with the cabinet and like the molding can be changed on the fly without fussing with position. The default separation is set to 0" so that the side stiles don't come down to the floor. You could also leave the default separation and make the left and right stile 0". In either case the area above the base is split to get separations there. This can be done with overlay or inset. I spent a couple of hours going down a few rabbit holes trying to make it with 3 separate door symbols. With the info given you can do it in far less time and learn along the way. Give it a try.

There's also something I used to do often before changes to cabinets were made (still have to use it for side extended back) Insert a door symbol into the back of the cabinet. Both these cabinets are configured the same. Only the X offset of the symbol is different. Which method depends on what other information you want to generate from the plan and how hard you want to work getting it.

I had a client that did several varieties like this. Most often they had me use separate pilasters since they liked how that worked for installation. Some were inset, some were frameless cabinets. Here are some alternates. You can also use a custom door for the pilaster after adjusting the symbol specs.

@Jon-Mullwoods Took a bit to work out best way to do lots of variations with the least work. Simple inset valance without molding is a piece of cake using this and just a door symbol. Where it gets tricky is when the valance is proud and has a molding. Unfortunately, there are some inconsistencies in how I expected update bounding box was working. When I tried using separate door symbols for the sides and the fronts all was fine until I tried changing the cabinet size. That made it so the bounding box offsets needed to change; too much guess work. So I came up with this. I used the cabinets with those door symbols to just make a bases with 3 sides. Made cabinets as noted below (make a style palette once configured) Changed origin, stretch planes and bounding offset. This appears to work pretty consistently allowing the cabinet width to change. I have not yet tried depths though, that might require separate symbols? (more than I want to do right now At least for a standard depth cabinet you can have a library of doors for each valance and swap them on the fly as needed. The other thing this allows is changing the molding on the fly. Since the default moldings material is not the same as the cabinet default material they need to be painted, easy enough IMO. I left some white just to show. NOTE-The plans used to make a straight door symbols can be used to make another with mitered ends (needs bounding box changed to use in the method making bases) OR float them OR make the entire base symbols from solids. Not sure which is best in the long run, might be to make the entire base from solids and convert those cabinet door symbols.

YES-Box Construction- NO Bottom; Front, delete bottom separation, zero shelves; back custom face-delete bottom separation. change blank area to opening. Save to library when done.

I always lean toward making things into symbols and saving the original plan(s) that are CAD. I find that behaves better for me than placing arch blocks or cad objects. Have done this sort of thing as doors, millwork, and/or fixture interior symbols depending. With a saved plan it's easy to change the type of symbol to suit. Tricky part as noted is the stretch zones/planes and origin offsets (which can be altered on the fly). But that is well worth learning. Some are best with molding profiles separate but often worth the effort to incorporate the profile prior to making it a symbol.

Turning down the Daytime Backdrop intensity usually helps, sometimes also turn down the sun.

For a number of years now I've used a series of default sets each with a specific layerset and dimension defaults to do dimensions. They are only used for doing dimensions and then I revert to the printable default set and layerset. They live in the drop down, select one, drag, go back to printable. Set them up for both plans and elevation view, number and name them to be in a group. It's more than what I care to explain here (and years ago someone from Chief told me that's not what they are for:)) Get in touch if you want to see them. What I have right now may not be exactly what you are after since once in a while I set them up on the fly. Note that you can define reach and final position for (proximity fixed) for each string. Once in a while the thickness of a wall or other plan objects make require overriding proximity fixed but less than 10% or the time. Fastest method I found. For large plans it can also be helpful to set up a cad layer to use as a mask which usually means a second printable layerset. Sorry if this sounds like voodoo but I can show you and we can take it from there. (not today- most of the week is ok though)

IF there was a mistake in the macro the result would not show. The difference is I created a named macro in the Text Macro Management DBX. Typing there you do NOT use the % signs. BUT I just saw that the first "(" in my post does not belong, sorry. Still correct in the plan though. Creating a named macro allows it's use from the drop down, OR using % sign with just the name. as in %carcass_h%. Once you have a named macro you can also export it to a folder and import into a plan for later use. As macros get more robust/complicated you really want to have them named.

Create a custom object information field in your cabinet defaults. Here I called it carcass. Create a new macro (height-(countertop_thickness+toekick_height). Select the field and place the macro there using the drop down. FWIW if I were doing this I would set the default box height to what I wanted and set the default height off the floor. An advantage is less likely to forget to order toe kick NOTE- be careful relying on the macro if changing cabinet construction. - IF you just uncheck toe kick the macro will still subtract that amount. To get it to read the macro to read properly you need to set the toe height to 0. Plan attached No toe.zip

In current versions- since X13 easy.

Don't need X16 this has worked for years. Box Construction, Full Overlay. Set the bottom separation equal to depth desired + 3/4" (in this case 2") and do NOT alter the reveal from default