MarkMc

It's worth noting that Code, Comment, Description, Manufacturer, and Supplier can be copied by themselves using a style palette. While the custom object fields will always ALL be copied. Hence something your nomenclature is best placed in a custom field, that field is then referenced in the default label. This would leave the above fields available for special purposes (which will eventually occur).

Many of the Leica Disto lasers have an app available that will do what you want. I've used the E7500i for a long time though retired now. (made a half hearted attempt to sell it for a while ). I believe that has been discontinued but newer versions likely work. The differences between the versions have to do with advanced features that allow measuring difficult situations. It can be a bit tricky at first, also was a little annoying changing to new versions which I found unnecessary. I just kept it assigned to X9 which simplified life. I've used it to input directly drawing all new, to input directly to adjust rough drawing, and to record and input manually. Al the fella that taught me eventually switched to shooting the room then input manually. I never decided which I liked better, both have pros and cons. I'd also occasionally had an assistant measure and call out dims to me. This worked really well once a room was done to add electric etc. (though the memory function works just as well as an assistant.) Note that I had clients that tried Canvas and in most cases that was not really accurate great, some were a total disaster-YMMV and that was some time ago. I eventually refused to work with anything supplied by them.

Retired KD here. You're on the right track but not quite. Here's how I approached it. Assign hotkeys to all of the cabinets in the "Build" Menu Not a bad idea to place appliances first even just as place holders. Place you cabinets using the shortcut keys, resize the widths in plan view as you go to what you think they should end up being. (Note that you can resize a cabinet and then just click to add a new one of the same type as the tool remains active) I usually do bases and talls leaving walls for later. I used to keep libraries and used the "replace from library" tool to change the cabinet configuration and that still has it's place but nowadays you want to use Style Palettes. To do that start a "warehouse plan" where you will keep the cabinets you need to make. You don't need to make them all at once. Better to do as you go and learn more about what you need to get from them to place orders. I end up with about 30 cabinets though a functioning set can be half that. (note no need to make both a left and a right in most cases you can just flip the cabinet) When creating the SP- first "Clear All", then select Copy Face Configuration, Component Code, Comment, and Custom Fields. DO NOT include any sizing or anything that can be handled by defaults. Those extra fields you will end up using for ordering information- modifications and such as text. You will still end up configuring some cabinets as you go- this or that appliance combo, some other odd request. I keep a library for each job by name. I save any customized cabinets there since it's easier for me to remember them by the job and less clutter in the warehouse. If one is need on a job the the replace from library tool can be handy or of course you can drag and drop that from the library.

These Search Link "Boolean Operations in CAD"

I just saw you are on X14. I did this in X16. Sorry about that but not doing it over. So here is the how. Start by making a molding Place a molding line using that. Transform replicate, copy that line- I did 12, think 11 is better Space at 19/11. Convert that to cabinet door, set y origin to 1/2" Place in a wall cabinet as side panel inset. Set separations to suit. Back and each side match front. Then using only 6 molding lines make a cabinet door symbol. Another wall cabinet this time 3/4" thick. Place the new door and adjust separations. Convert that to a fixture. Rotate so that it will lay parallel to the floor. Pen it up and set height plane to allow it to grow. Set first wall cabinet on the floor. Center the fixture over the cabinet in both directions and adjust height.

Attached how to with symbol and parts in case you want to change any dimensions. Mini Split Grate.zip

This was done with solids and boolean operations. I use transform replicate to duplicate and move in case I need to redo later. Draw, side profile and set depth. Go to front elevation and draw a new solid that has the curve you want. Look at plan, change depth and position to overlap. Copy that and reflect about the original. Use subtract to get the curves on the side. Then if you need it hollow. Transform replicate, resize some percentage (.98?) Go back to front elevation and manuall pull the bottom of the smaller piece down, the top up. Subtract. Then add flat solids to in front elevation to fill in the space on the side, copy and reflect, then use union Here is final with Chloe hood next to it.

Quite so. I only ever used the two largest Lemans (for susans I always used the Suzi Q never standard bi-fold doors) It's also quite true that the net storage of corners can be greater when just killing the corner as Rene notes. However but almost never used a 3Drawer base narrower than 30" or more. Narrower I always made a 4 drawer base learned that from taking photos of existing kitchens. Many years ago I took to photographing every cabinet with what is stored there in a prospective clients kitchen. Measured the big, and odd. Likely 15,000 + photos over the years. Then used that to determine storage needs and placement. I also learned a bit about what did not work and how folks tried overcome the short comings (like narrow 3DBs). Have at least 15,000 photos from then.

Depends- integrated as part of the door, custom door symbol, custom drawer box symbol, separations are a custom cabinet door placed as a side inset Or as a metal channel? These were done with J channel but C can also be used (start with a molding to make the door symbol). Adjust the Y origin and lock the height. The cabinets in this case used a traditional overlay. Takes a bit of playing around to get there. Note- Perhaps can also be done with full overlay. Did these a long time ago so don't quite remember why but I had trouble changing to Full overlay just now The sides were custom symbols Inserted in the back of the cabinet, left one exposed for reference. I have some available for sale if need be. (while challenging, even frustrating, making them yourself is a good learning excercise)

While I almost always try to do these sorts of things with a single cabinet in this case I found that was really annoying to make look correct in all types of views. So it's better to make it in parts. Sides are made with a cabinet section and two legs, then convert that to a symbol. The main cabinet works better if the bottom shelf is a cabinet door symbol. Set the upper layout of the cabinet front to avoid showing extra lines in vector when the sides are forced over. Getting it to look correct in vector was a PIA when it is changed to a symbol so that it can go into a schedule. Attached a plan (only because too much to explain) This has 3" legs set 1/2" proud of face frames. Changing that requires changing leg sizes, then a new symbol. And reset the sizing of the top front layout. open leg cabinet.zip

Sent you a PM

Hi Pamela. First a tip. If you want someone to get notified to look at a post put an @ symbol"the user name" OR highlight some text in their post and select Quote Selection when it pops up. I just got back and the only reason I saw this was looking at what was posted since I left. I almost never use solids for making a door symbol so I'm not sure how you would use the wainscot panel with that without just floating it in. Here is a link to a post with the door maker plan I use. I may have updated it but this works.

Another method is to set one stile to 0" in the defaults but leave the separation under box construction as 1-1/2". For the last cabinet in a run, click the wrench so it switches to default (1-2"). Better still is to make some style palettes that copy the face configurations you need with the stiles set that way. You can always flip a cabinet to change the side that is 0" (ctrl + F)

There are several other ways but I think what you've been given so far might leave you still wondering. I'm usually pretty good with this stuff and it leaves me wondering. What is below is based on what I know. If someone knows anything better please some details? I recently spent a good bit of time training someone to set up the ability to do about a dozen variations of cutouts and to accommodate varied widths as easily as possible. I don't know what is meant by a "furniture base" in chief (nothing in help nor the DBX) unless that means to float it on the floor as in the left hand of the image. That is the cabinet is raised above the floor, the entire base is made as a symbol placed on the floor, molding is part of the cabinet. This is the easiest method but a bit annoying when changing sizes. then there is "a custom toe kick" but how do you place it. You can float it in, or you make it as a cabinet door symbol and then adjust the cabinet. IF all you want is a valance at the front, that does NOT extend past the sides, it's fairly easy. Convert the solid with cutout to a cabinet door symbolEliminate the toe kick for cabinet, make a section the needed height at the bottom of the cabinet front as a "side panel inset", place your new symbol. Once you get into the extended sides it becomes harder. In this case I have some symbols that I call valance base. The cabinets at the right show the first stage of setting this up. But note you have to mess with rails and stiles quite a bit. The furthest to the right shows the finished cabinet (there are slightly more complicated methods to this depending on needs and how you make the symbol for the base) In all of these the molding is added as part of the cabinet which is easier to change if needed. Again, my 2cents and open to suggestion.

PM sent