Larry_Sweeney

I could not find anything in "Search" on this subject. I would like to clip top corner of a door to same angle of the roof. Is this possible? I don't see a way in the door's "Arch" dbx. section. I know you can do this with windows. Thanks in advance for your time and advice.

Lew is most correct. The eave fascia should either be the same or a foot or "more" above the main roof. I would also make the pitch on the "turret" at least twice the pitch of the main roof. Try that and see if changing the pitch is much more pleasing to the eye. Because the eave will be much above the top of the windows you could add more architectural detail in that area to help make the "turret" stand out. Of course this is my opinion only. You can take it with a grain of salt.

Eric.......................Thanks for letting me know this is an old bug. I've never had this occur for me before that I can remember. I will report it again. They say the squeaky wheel gets greased   .  Have a great day.

45 minutes ago, CharlesVolz said:

Larry,
 

I got the ceiling to behave better by changing the ceiling material to your fir planking (rotated) and making it 1/16" thick per the picts below. Just angle your 3D camera carefully and you're good to go. 

 

 

 

 

Charles...........................Yes, I got those same results earlier. This "work around" is fair and might be my best option, but like Eric, I think this is a bug and I'll report it. Thanks for your input. Also thanks for your input on the "deck plank" problem. I was also able to get similar results by changing the plank and gaps size. I also think this is a bug and I'll have to report it. Have a great day

     1. I have an area of the deck edge where the deck planks do not go to the outside of the framing (DECK 1 attachment). If I move the distance of the deck closer or farther away from the wall the deck is attached to the gap will change, but it will not be correct. I've never seen this occur before. Once again, any suggestions? Just to let it be known, this is a plan moved up from X9.

     2. I also have part of a deck that is under a 2nd. floor overhang (DECK 2 attachment). The underside of the overhang is showing a deck ceiling even though in the deck dbx. I have ceiling and roof unchecked. I've tried everything I can think of to try and get rid of this ceiling. I know it is a deck ceiling because when I change the material for the deck ceiling the ceiling I'm referring to changes.

     Any suggestions will be much appreciated for either problem. Thanks in advance for your time and knowledge.

Remodel 8A.zip

Eric..............I made sure both sides were at the same elevation. You can see my results in the attachment. Did you try using my profile that is in the plan? I don't understand what I'm doing wrong. I can't ever remember having this sort of problem with the shadow boards or frieze. It's getting late. I'll have to look at this with "fresh coffee" in the morning.

I edited the attachment so it was larger and easier to see.

Perry and Mick.................Sorry I didn't get right back to you more quickly. I got a call and had to step out. I do appreciate your advice.

Perry .............. I don't have "auto framing" on, but I did build the framing. I just have that layer turned off.

Mick .........I understand that that the shadow board builds from the fascia line back, but I have my overhang set for 12". If it is set for 12" (roof material out at the 12" mark) then why is my shadow board back at the wall. When I change the horizontal offset for the shadow board it does not move. I did make the frieze the same molding as the shadow board molding but it would not show. I take it you did not get those results----------correct?

   I tried to add a soffit detail as a shadow board, but I'm getting strange results (attachment). I have my overhang set to 12 ", but the shadow board rest up against the exterior wall and will not move no matter what my horizontal setting is set to. My roofing material is placed correctly ,but the framing isn't correct either. In the process of trying to "trouble shoot" the problem I attempted to use the soffit profile as a frieze molding. My frieze is shown in the roofing dbx. ,but it doesn't show in camera view or plan view with all the correct layers turned on. Am I having an "old timers brain fart" or is there something really going on here? This project was brought up from an earlier version if that has anything to do with it. I'm just getting it started (my own place) and I'm trying many unusual things in getting the "right look"

house.zip

Dermot..............That was the problem. I have no idea how that got changed. Maybe today will be okay after all.    Have a great day!

I must be losing it. I opened up my file this morning and I noticed all my doors (and windows) were colored grey. I went to my door layer and they were marked to be black. I tried to change them to another color but they would not change. What stupid thing am I missing for the reason for this. The default color is set for black. It's going to be a long day. ----------- Maybe retirement is the answer! 

Mark............This model seems to be quite challenging in many ways. I find that it's better to work on it first thing in the morning rather than late at night.    As of right now, between you and Chop, I'm on to the next challenge. I'm sure I'll be back with another issue before this project is finished. Maybe I shouldn't make them so hard. Thanks for taking time and giving advice----------much appreciated. Have a great day!

9 hours ago, Chopsaw said:

Yes I have a name but Chop or Chopsaw works fine here on the forum.   Is you plan stable now without warnings ?  Mine still thinks the walls are inside out when the drywall is on the inside.

     Well then, CHOP it is! Yes, I still get that warning when I open the plan and I have no idea what or where the problem is. I've have had many "issues" with building this model and have done many a work around which, I think, are starting to form their own issues now. As I move along in this model I'll probably be back here asking for advice and input.  Once again I thank you for your time and knowledge. Have a great day.

 Chopsaw..............Thanks so much for your time, advice and patience. It's very much appreciated. So is Chopsaw what you go by or do you have a first name?

Mark....................You were on the right path. Thanks for your time and advice.

Have a great day!

Chopsaw............I think I got it. At the point where the railing wall and the normal wall meets I put in a wall break. From the break to the main house I then defined a new railing wall with siding on only one side. I then placed the normal wall next to the new defined railing wall and placed a window (double wall option "not through") in the normal wall. Looks okay and it doesn't seem to matter if it's set to furred or frame through.

I still have the problem with the soffit material above the railing wall area though (shown in exterior view of first attachment in this thread). The material showing is the drywall ceiling and not the soffit material. I think this problem is a CA bug and not a "setting" problem.

3 minutes ago, Chopsaw said:

Let us know how it goes with the pony wall but it may not be possible when set to "furred".

 

I set the main wall to "frame through"

 

You can have the file back if you think it would help.  Don't think I messed it up too bad.

 

Nice looking build by the way.  Love to see it when you are done.  Quite the cantilever.

 

There are many items not finished in this model---- TO BE WORKED OUT.  The cantilever will have post under it.

As I mentioned earlier, when I set the wall to frame through the railing wall disappears. Does this happen for you?

Chopsaw.............I keep getting this message when I try to install a window in the "normal wall".   There is nothing locked. I have since tried locking the railing wall. but the window will still not install in the normal wall.

2 minutes ago, Chopsaw said:

Set the windows to "not through" and you should be good.

 

How did you get the windows to go into the "normal wall"? I tried that earlier and they kept installing in the railing wall instead. 

16 minutes ago, Chopsaw said:

 

The side effects are serious but this may be the only way.  It deletes the end section of railing pony wall and deletes the windows.

However the windows can be replaced and you conveniently have a psolid filler that can be extended to fill the deleted railing wall.

Just a little fudging to do in floor plan.  Looks ok in 3D.

 

I did think about the "p-solid" idea earlier when I made the up slope on the railing wall, but I was trying to figure out how to use regular CA walls ---------------- like it would be done in "real world" building. I'm going to play around with a "pony wall idea" that came up in my head. Maybe this one should be sent to support.

"Living Room problem" ---?

Mark........When I set the double wall option to "Not Through" CA will only place the window in the railing wall. It won't install the window in the normal wall

Eric..........If I change the wall from furred to a frame through my railing wall disappears. Do I have to give my railing wall a different specification and if so what?

I've been working on this remodel off and on for awhile now. I'm so glad the client is not in a hurry. It seems every time I start back on it CA slaps me in the face with a new problem. Well, here it is. On the second floor I started to add windows in what is to be the master bedroom. On the exterior I have railing walls that are right against the regular "normal" walls in a couple of areas. When I add the windows in the normal walls in these areas they locate in the railing wall. (see attachments). Also notice that when this is happening the windows are not showing correctly on the left side in plan view. As far as I can tell the wall are "built" the came on both sides. Also notice where the railing wall is next to the Normal wall the soffit  overhang is not recognized (exterior view with question mark). Did I find a flaw in CA with these problems or am I building this all wrong with the way I'm labeling my walls or what. I really can't afford to pull any more hair out on my head.    As always, ANY and ALL help will be much appreciated. This remodel is far from being completed and I feel this won't be the last time I'll be asking questions about what is going on.

CHANDLER 05052018.zip

Eric.................Thanks for the info. The second wall must have been what I was thinking about. I ended up using the P-solid, but in my case the second wall would have worked also. Thanks again and have a great day.

Is there a way to "break" this wall on the vertical and make this closed angled bracket? I was going to use a P-solid with the siding material, but thought there was or might be a way to do it with just using the wall. I was thinking at one point I could do what I'm asking with an earlier version.   Thanks in advance for your time and advice.

I have a picket fence (railing wall) with a post at each end and I want to run it up to a house wall within a couple of inches, but it keeps wanting to attach to the house wall. Is there a way (work around) to keep it from attaching to the house wall?

1 hour ago, Richard_Morrison said:

Gutters rebuilding automatically when the roof DBX is opened is very annoying, isn't it. (I get annoyed when doing California framed roofs, which is very common for me.) I've complained before, but please send it in to tech support. More people reporting this increases the likelihood that we won't have to resort to workarounds like a separate molding polyline. 

I'm on it. YES. quite annoying!