SHCanada2

i see more and more where it is on the right, but it is readable without having to tilt your head (shift Joey's text 90 degrees). Its more readbale, but the text also tends to be wrapped more which ironically makes it less readable

are you referring to changing their location in layout, or just renumbering/naming?

It was for in house work (and I still do them but I do them for concepts not for actual UROWs, roads, curb cuts, grades, drainage, etc), and the others were for appeals against developments (community service, gratis).

I would suggest you try for 2 houses and use that as your estimate ...and put in all the caveat about what you are not going to do? Trees?

There ae lots of posts on how to export the symbol (it gets saved to your library)...might even be a video. I never remember the exact steps, and then I go back to searching here

If you already have the houses, then I would convert them to symbols and plot them. I have done this a few times, its not a lot of work if the land is flat. If the land is not flat, it is a headache. And if you want to show roads, curbs, curb cuts etc, it then becomes a lot of work

You test it out on one house first to make sure you get what you want for the render, as you have to choose what to export.

The tricky part I have found is trying to show only what you want for the symbol 2d...but that is probably a limitation of my knowledge

You can also plot them in google earth if you are looking for a high shot, but there are some limitations and how good they are, as you cannot for instance remove trees in google earth

Might need a little more information. It looks like you already have the subdivision plan. Is your scope to just put the footprints of every house on the existing subdivision plan.

It it was me and I had to do them all, I would ask whomever created that plan, for the dxf or dwg file to ensure absolute accuracy

they also may be available from the development authority

did you call support?

1 hour ago, Renerabbitt said:

I would think typically people use the automatic stair opening tool in the edit toolbar

there you go, learn something new every day. I will try that, merci. For some reason I thought it was automatic, but may that is only if it is a railing

13 hours ago, Renerabbitt said:

because the most common reason for such a change is that you want your interior wall type to create a structure and surface at the exterior of whatever discrepancy there is between rooms...i.e. drywall over framing when a floor is sunken.

would that mean everyone has to do this at the top of stairs?

I'm thinking there is something odd here, maybe because it is against an outside wall with a basement foundation that is wider ....or something

On 12/23/2025 at 1:40 PM, Renerabbitt said:

For those that are curious, it changes to a double line when you have a difference in setting from the rooms on either side of the wall

any setting? I am seeing this at top of stairs for a room to below room

My room elevations are the same for the rooms

I notice when I specify a room divider as the walltype, CA changes it to Interior 4 if I go back into the dbx.

This is causing the pony wall to extend beyond the stairs.  

I did what JLU did and it works, but my question is, why do I have to? 

if your main floor is using the default elevations, you could change the default.

If not, I will normally select all rooms using the marquee select and then adjust elevations/room heights if I need

one other tidbit. the highest amount of accuracy is achieved by doing the measurements on the longest straight line in the PDF that has a measurement printed

I believe CA actually has a video. 

The simplest way to scale is: if there is a dimensions between two points on the pdf, you do a point to point measurement in CA (after you have imported the pdf), and then do a ratio of that measurement with the one on the PDF.. And then use the transform replicate to resize using that calculated ratio. in the simplest example: if there is a measurement on the pdf which says it is a 100m long parcel between tow parcel corners, but when you actually measure it in CA, CA shows it to be 50M, then you need to resize by a factor of 2

I also believe CA has a point to point resize tool that does the math for you. I seem to recall seeing it in their video, I just never remember where it is. It is probably in the help

you cam import pdfs and put them on their own layer. You can then scale and trace if you would like. it works best if there is a known dimension on the pdf

it happens all the time for me, drives me crazy

what is your ceiling elevation at for that outdoor room? notice mine is at -28

after you create the second floor, change the second floor walls to align with your desired bonus room. Use the wall align tool to ensure they are on top of lower storey walls, if desired (normally the case for outside walls)

5 hours ago, tuckanthony said:

Does the .plan file have to be located in common documents in order for the .layout to have a .plan file to reference, then once a new project is created I would re-link the .layout file to the .plan file that was created when I created the project?

The easiest  way to do this that I have found for project management mode, is to have a "template" project which sits at the top of the list (I do it by naming it _template). and then have your template layout and template plan fully linked in the template project. For new projects, you right click on the template project and click copy. Then rename the new project to whatever you want. The links will still be there.

You do not have to use "common documents"

9 hours ago, decorators3 said:

no .. not a curved roof just a slight gable uplift towards the front of the perch

then I see two different scenarios. 1. you can do it as I showed, or 2, build it with declining pitched full span trusses all the way to where the left of your blue line is. 

I think 2, would be the better option, but to model it in chief, I think(but maybe others have a better way) you would have to create like 20 roof planes, each very narrow from the top down to the eave, and each with a slight decreasing pitch, from right to left. You could try start using 24" spacing for the roof planes, but I'd not sure how the 3d would look. my guess is it would show too disconnected at the top

If I were you, I'd call the truss company to see what their thoughts are

I dont see a curve in the picture. Are they looking for a curved roof, or just a declining ridge at a set decline pitch?

I think the roof is flat, but it is certainly not trivial. I actually did something similar on my attached garage in order to have the roof ridge be below a window at the house. I spoke to the truss guys and they were a little surprised at what I wanted. I describe it to them as reducing the peak of each truss from front to back by 1/2 inch so when I got to the house, it was 3 inches shorter.

I think you have to play with the pitch and rotated angle of the roof plane.

But then again, maybe there is a simpler way

for the first picture, wouldnt it just be a seperate roof plane on either side which starts from the top, and then goes down to the right corner of the roof,but angled?

let me try

cool looking house

the chase around the elevations problem. I've had it many times

...from what I remember

Possible Issue 1:

I find that if your entire basement is not at the same elevation and ceiling heights, then any rooms that you try and make different, must have a corresponding room on the main floor with the main floor walls over top of the basement walls

Issue 2: Set the absolute elevations, then set the stem wall.

or post a video of the issue, and/or the plan