SHCanada2

also related:

watch the levels carefully, or you will go crazy changing on floor, which then changed another floor, so you go to that floor to change it, and then it changes the other floor.

CA also has no concept (that I know of) of a split ceiling in a room, such as:

so you need to make an room using invisible walls (shown as walls below)in the garage that matches the room above:

6 hours ago, PitMan71 said:

 

Just trying to confirm whether this is a known behavior

yes, it happens. as rosco mentions usually because there is another room or the rooms do not line up exactly. For instance for a bonus room on top of part of the garage, you would draw invisible room in the garage that matches the room above

you might want to log a ticket with support, I'd be interested in seeing what they saw.

I have had similar issue but not to this degree

all layers on: like Michael indicates, I do not see them ...and turning off layer "cameras, wall elevations" does indeed turn the two below off completely

or a video of what you are doing to turn off and on and to populate

1 hour ago, Michael_Gia said:

If they have the AutoCAD file then they can measure whatever they want. 
 

Anyone else do this?

some engineers and interior designers ask for this from me.

I just export it from CA and send it along.

For the truss people, they have never asked for a DXF or DWG file. ...that said they have made mistakes more than once, but it wasnt because it wasn't dimensioned, it was just that they missed it or in one case, got an off angle wall incorrect

2 hours ago, GeneDavis said:

I have my K&B camera callouts set with manually-entered text inside the callout circle, K1, K2, etc

why do you do this, vs inside the dialog ?

I enter the K1, K2 etc in the dialog and then just use the layer to control

2 hours ago, DefinedDesign said:

Thanks for pointing this out, now if I can remember it going forward

ironically I just got tripped up by this yesterday, I have to remember, which I dont,  that in order to make the stem wall rise above the floor in the attached garage, (And for the Stem wall top to to to actually show up as editable in the dialog)  I need to check the room supplies floor for room above. Ironically I clicked on the help, hoping it would tell me how to get this to show up in the dialog, but I did not see it.

Of course I hear people saying, just use a pony wall. Sure but that is more complicated...and I was almost to that point when I went back to check an old plan and did the old "compare the differences" excercise

I moved this wall out on the floor plan SPV, the dimensions on the roof SPV moved accordingly, but if I move the dimension and then try and get back the dimension to the main layer, it will not snap to it.

Anyone seen something like this? 

If I delete it and then click on the auto exterior it then finds it correctly. But why doesnt it work when I manually try and snap to it?  

8 hours ago, Joe_Carrick said:

There's only one Plumbing Fixture Catalog that I know of in Chief - Kohler

there are a few in the core and bonus catalog, but I just checked and they have the same issue

18 hours ago, johnny said:

but just to show you another "format"

That is an impressive set.

what is 4 for this below? it says sheathing, but I think maybe the line should go across the truss to the vertical cross hatched pline?

..and a little typo "EXSPSOED" ...I do these all the time... only to find them way after I sent them out

went to white where? screenshot? the plan?

there are people that sell more advanced templates. @Renerabbitt

And people that sell other types of packages @Joe_Carrick

and people that have paid newsletter with tips and tricks and does custom assistance @Alaskan_Son

If your office is just starting out, you might want to evaluate these types of offerings to get a head start which is consistent across all of you in the offcie

you have them in a schedule?

37 minutes ago, Joe_Carrick said:

 

You will probably need to edit the bounding boxes for all toilets since Chief (in most cases) doesn't have those values set correctly.

hmmm ive used the same toilet forever from the CA catalog, and it is at 30" wide...maybe i got lucky...or maybe it is not at 30 and ive been wrong all along!

I will use point to point to drop a marker or use a circle and point to point. I then put a text with leader line to note it is the drain rough in. If you do this before you place the fixture you should have no issue

It's not ideal and perhaps others have a better way.

If I have to move it I can then move the circle or the marker

that is a good tidbit, thanks

I've seen this maybe 3 times in the past year or so but cannot remember the last time. A restart of CA fixes it

1 hour ago, JKEdmo said:

I've struggled with this too.  One thing I've done is first draw the wall with a larger offset -- say 36" -- then move the wall into place.  I've found this can keep the short segment from deleting

this is what I do, by putting a dimension line after drawing the wall further away. then click the wall and the dimension line, and type in the dimension i want

One possibility, I had a post on something similar  from a few years ago, open up the wall object, but go to the material tab, and see what is there. Sometimes CA will put a material there overriding the wall definition

2 hours ago, heedaf said:

Just got a gps app on the phone and walked the lot.  Strange that it would be that far off.  Around 400 points with the lot.  I guess I need to go measure the lot to make sure it is 100' wide.

GPS do not give accurate elevation data(which is needed for slope), like not even close, I think mine might be accurate to 50ft vertically(absolute) and who knows on a delta between two points. I tried it a few years back and it was all over the place for the delta. Your better bet is a transit or laser at dusk ....once you determine where the property corners are at physically.

or go old schoold with a water level

I also have a zip level for when you do not have line of sight.

..or just ask the customer for a survey...or get one done.

The cheapest way, laser level if you know where the property corners are

If you have multiple points You probably want to take a subset that fit within 100ft.  You could scale the elevation data if you are only given two points for 157ft. What exactly do you have?

A question would be, did you get wrong GPS data for 100ft or did you get bigger GPS data that represents 157ft. And did you get more than 4 points

This is most of my business. What you do is create a basement from the main floor, and save that in your template plan. and turn off auto build foundation. You can ignore the main floor, might even be able to delete, I just never have, in case for instance I have to show the new laundry for the main floor if the basement is being suited

By having the basement in your template, you can go into the defaults, and go to floor 0 and set the default ceiling hieght. You can also put the furnace, elec panel, HWT, main stack, typical 5x8 bathroom fixtures all on the plan so you are just moving them around. my template plan also uses furred walls for the basement.so i do not have to change the wall type from the stock concrete.

And then you create a layout template with the template plan (basement level) linked.

Once you have it all setup, it only takes a few hours to create a basement plan. If you know exactly what you want and its a simple rectangle for the foundation, its under an hour. Where it typically takes some time is if you are truly finishing the entire basement and are needing every inch. then the dimensioning to furnace needs to be accurate to any adjoining walls and where humidifiers attached to furnaces will impact where the wall can go, same with anything that has pipes or flues like air exchangers. Bulkheads also take some time as rarely are pipes all run in a nice straight pattern, except perhaps the main duct.

The other PIA is the stairs. CA does not have an easy way to have stairs fit within a set of walls. I find it easier sometimes to just draw the first set of stairs up, then draw a polyline rectangle for a landing and any winders as lines, and then stairs up the other direction. As long as the first set of stairs is accurate the render will be accurate as you cannot see the floor of the landing anyway...unless of course you have only a few stairs bfeore a landing, and then you have to do a landing or try the L shaped stairs tool

basement walls are usually furred and/or thicker, stairs next to outside basement walls generally will not copy in the correct place on higher floors without adjusting to wider stairs or different positions. I find the landings then start to do weird things when you try and adjust. point to point move is the best option I have found, once they are copied onto the next floor

thank you both. The cabinets on the other side had the backsplash on

11 hours ago, DBCooper said:

Now what I really wish we had was the ability to manually turn on/off the backsplash and/or the edge molding on any counter edge instead.

or at least put the backsplash setting on the custom countertop as a whole, which would be overidable on the cabinet beneath it