SHCanada2

try @Renerabbitt

After doing a very time consuming property mostly due to the many rooflines, I went looking again for scanning apps that could help.

iGuide now does elevations. I had a session today with one of their people. iGuide has their own camera similar to matteport. the iGuide one is currently on sale for $1800 USD. https://store.goiguide.com/. It also works outside.

The interesting thing is the price and time it takes to scan. It is 8 sec per scan. A 2000 sq ft house could then be done in under 30 min plus the exterior. The price for a 2000sq ft house, floor plans and elevations in DWG is $225 CAD (~150USD). No subscription. You also get the visual tour included, so then one does not have to take their own video

https://goiguide.com/pricing

Seems pretty good. I think one would still have to take laser measurements for crucial areas 

Has anyone tried iGuide? I'm curious to know how good their elevations are in real life where there is only 8ft between houses with bushes and sheds.

They did tell me they have humans doing the elevations and floor plans, and they show both the point cloud(below) and the elevation in the pdf package they give you. It also gives you a (inaccurate) listing of windows and doors. i.e. doors were listed at 6'7, 6'8, 6'9. I don't think i really care except for the door widths as I typically dont specify height for doors. Window guys always come and measure the windows themselves so that does not have to be accurate.

3 hours ago, Ange822 said:

That worked!

I'm curious, do you dimension the man door and overhead door foundation cutout(buck as known here)? 

Overhead doors here will get a 16'4 or larger cutout for a 16' door.

From what I have seen on plans, these do not ever get dimensioned, or at least not that I have seen

I normally put the beam on the main floor.

I would normally try a railing for this using post to beam option and ensure it encloses a room. And ensure the room is a deck or porch..looks like deck in your case

I would put in a set of stairs which would break the railing.

It looks like you are close except the beam and stairs?

I'm not sure what that random 2' of siding is on the post,

I've seen a couple videos on building "covered porches" including one by snestor which, if you havent watched them, might be worthwhile

potato potahto I think. For my plans I will sometimes need to add layers or layer sets that are one offs, and would be clutter for every plan. If I add a new layer I think will be useful, I will add it back to the template, same with default sets. And to be honest sometimes I am lazy working with current plans where I will draw dimensions using one set and then decide they are to big or small, and then I just change the text height, which means the dim set is no longer what it was intended to be. If I used my latest plan as the next template, I would either have to revert that or live with the inconsistency, which may bite me later.

I try and keep notes for stuff I want to update on my template.

But my template also has 4 walls on the main floor, and a basement, and two terrain regions, and .... stuff that I want to be there for the next plan. IF you use the current plan which may for instance have to have had 6 terrain regions, then you would have to delete them for a flat lot plan, or set them all to the same elevation.

Its work either way

at a minimum turn on invisible walls and remove them. I've been caught by this a couple times

I turn on all layers, and delete things I dont need

he has a different ceiling height

I redrew the invisible wall

what happens when you add an elevation region?

or how exactly are you "trying to add"?

i run into this all the time. I use center object like db says, in both directions.  I start with one cabinet for the first top row, then the next cabinet on the lower row, move the this unit it bumps up to the one above, then center it on the one above. then add another cabinet to top row, move it unit it bumps to  the first cabinet, then center on the the first cabinet.

rinse repeat

or you can probably use the multiple copy tool once you have the first two set

NVM, its because the closet room still had the floor 10" higher

I adjusted the floor structure in this basement to be lower, and then the door no longer is at the floor. I tired deleting the door and readding, but it does not move.

I suppose I could change to absolute elevation and force it, but that seems like a workaround. Anyone seen this before?

probably need to post the plan. it looks like it is balloon framing. you should also just screenshot, rather than make people download a pdf to see the problem

have you tried the "tool search"

57 minutes ago, Rookie65 said:

Manually drawn walls are not part of the foundation

neither are cabinets, but auto rebuild stays on for them, same with stairs, same with arch objects....

adjust the sunlight, toggle the sunlight to on, then click move sun and sweep your mouse holding the left mouse down accross the screen

i just did one yesterday. is the room a "garage".  

attached  garage walls here are typicallyy12" or so concrete above grade(plus below grade frost walls), so there always needs to be a cutout

I did have the room below on the foundation set to be a crawlspace...which did not work. Changed it to garage and it worked

Polycam exports pdf, DXF, etc, which means you import into CA and then draw over the walls. or try and use the CAD to wall feature of CA.

Or are you asking if someone has imported polyucam's DAE or OBJ file and created plans from it?

or something else?

5 hours ago, Rookie65 said:

What does that have to do with interior walls in the basement?

Do a full set of house plans including interior walls in the basement, then the customer says, move this exterior wall, and that one, change the garage size, etc.

If auto rebuild stayed on and operated per the request above by jambruins (and myself), it would move the basement exterior walls,  but leave the basement interior walls. Then I would go and adjust the interior walls to match the moved exterior found walls.

today CA truns off auto rebuild foundation when one draws interior walls in the basement, so instead I have to go put on the reference display, and move the exterior basement walls to match the main floor, and then use the align tool to make sure they really do match.

So the request is, unless I misinterpreted, is for CA to allow auto rebuild foundations to stay on when I draw interior walls in the basement, and, CA would move the foundation walls to match the main floor (just like it would do if I did not have any interior walls in the basement)

If I had no interior walls in the basement, then autorebuild foundation could stay on. That is dependency on interior walls

i'll admit that is pretty slick, you even got the fruit on the counter!.

although I like the brightness of mine better. but I assume you just tell the app you are using to make yours brighter, and it does

I would like it to autobuild, because if I make a change to the main floor exterior walls I then I have to go back and change the foundation.

I think it depends on what the customer wants. I use a camera on layout,  which means I can make changes or different versions of plans without having to do anything. If I had to constantly make screenshots or image files and run them through a 3rd party app, it would make me go a little crazy.  I really only adjust backdrop intensity, sun intensity, sun location, manual exposure and brightness. And I will add in or move pot lights.  But interior rendering is not my business, plans are my business, and the rendering, even if it is basic, sets me apart.

So if one is providing rendering for more of a "this is what that plan will look like" reason, my thoughts are it does quite well with just those 5 adjustments. The one I did a couple weeks ago is below: sure the bookcase is not filled and there are no basket of apples on the coffee table, but it conveys the space, furniture placement, colors.

6 hours ago, bkjernis said:

How do I improve this image? How do I add the necessary area lights to improve it?

easiest is to change your exposure to manual and adjust it, adjusting brightness can also help

I'm not at my CA computer, but I assume you have terrain regions on that side as it is sloping down? looks like you need to adjust it to be next to the building.