SHCanada2

5 hours ago, johnny said:

As I understand it, Chief uses the "attic" profile to fill in with truss/web parametrically, and whether or not you raise the roof profile or go through the menu options.... its basically the same operation.  If i'm wrong and there is some other reason i'd actually like to know. 

raising the roof using the TNR to a 12" heel requires one to do the math of 12" minus existing heel height, and then that number is put into TNR, so I think doing it the other way (through defaults or the build roof dbx) is simpler

4 hours ago, CharlesVolz said:

The easiest way to do this regularly, like most things, is to set up your defaults correctly before you build your roof planes (including ceiling heights and roof structures).

This has the limitation of only one heel height globally. If for instance one is doing an addition, and the customer wants a heel height of 12" for the addition, but the house only has 4" heel height, you will have to adjust either one or the other manually..or perhaps although I have not tried, build some, mark them as edited, then build some more with a different heel height. I find it simpler just to set the heel height for the most roof planes that have the same heel, and then TNR the others to the desired heel height,

The other example is an unheated attached garage. It does not need the heel height for the insulation required here for the living space, and IMHO, a garage starts to look odd with high heel heights. As such I always set the garage to a different heel...manually

if it is an auto generated roof, and you specified heel height at 12", it should build them like that, although I typically have to build all framing to show that, as I have auto build shutoff.

If you have one or more manual roof planes, when you build the roof from the build roof dialog, make sure the check box is off for the edited and manual. CA will build an auto roof over a manual roof, so you may have two roofs in the same(x,y plane) location. You will then need to delete the auto roof.

To adjust the manual roof planes, as johnny says select the roof planes and use the TNR box to alter in the Z direction

the other thing I do is if you are only moving/removing an interior wall or two, I will use plines for these walls instead of walls, then turn the layer on and off. but that doesnt work so well if there is currently a door in the wall

multiple files is best IMHO. layersets method falls apart as soon as there are walls close together. you can try using no room definition walls if you want to give it a go. 

I do the as built, and then create copy in the project browser, and then rename that copy as my as built.

4 hours ago, robdyck said:

I think you have the wrong layers displayed for that function. If you have Walls, Layers turned off and if you do NOT have Walls, Main Layer Only turned ON, you cannot manually hit the wall main layer. That's what I think is going on there, but I could be wrong.

i'll double check, but auto dimensioning with the layers on as shown picks up the corner I am trying to dimension to, implying it is the main layer

5 hours ago, Alaskan_Son said:

You aren't releasing you mouse button far enough from other object.  To snap to your wall's main layer when there are other potentially conflicting snap point nearby, I often find the need to release the mouse button much further down the wall.  It will still ultimately measure from the end of the wall, but you release the mouse button in an area where there are no conflicts.

I'll double check this as well, it was a while ago, but I think I tried that to, but not all the way to the top where it intersects the other wall.

I'll give it a whirl, thanks both

also related:

watch the levels carefully, or you will go crazy changing on floor, which then changed another floor, so you go to that floor to change it, and then it changes the other floor.

CA also has no concept (that I know of) of a split ceiling in a room, such as:

so you need to make an room using invisible walls (shown as walls below)in the garage that matches the room above:

6 hours ago, PitMan71 said:

 

Just trying to confirm whether this is a known behavior

yes, it happens. as rosco mentions usually because there is another room or the rooms do not line up exactly. For instance for a bonus room on top of part of the garage, you would draw invisible room in the garage that matches the room above

you might want to log a ticket with support, I'd be interested in seeing what they saw.

I have had similar issue but not to this degree

all layers on: like Michael indicates, I do not see them ...and turning off layer "cameras, wall elevations" does indeed turn the two below off completely

or a video of what you are doing to turn off and on and to populate

1 hour ago, Michael_Gia said:

If they have the AutoCAD file then they can measure whatever they want. 
 

Anyone else do this?

some engineers and interior designers ask for this from me.

I just export it from CA and send it along.

For the truss people, they have never asked for a DXF or DWG file. ...that said they have made mistakes more than once, but it wasnt because it wasn't dimensioned, it was just that they missed it or in one case, got an off angle wall incorrect

2 hours ago, GeneDavis said:

I have my K&B camera callouts set with manually-entered text inside the callout circle, K1, K2, etc

why do you do this, vs inside the dialog ?

I enter the K1, K2 etc in the dialog and then just use the layer to control

2 hours ago, DefinedDesign said:

Thanks for pointing this out, now if I can remember it going forward

ironically I just got tripped up by this yesterday, I have to remember, which I dont,  that in order to make the stem wall rise above the floor in the attached garage, (And for the Stem wall top to to to actually show up as editable in the dialog)  I need to check the room supplies floor for room above. Ironically I clicked on the help, hoping it would tell me how to get this to show up in the dialog, but I did not see it.

Of course I hear people saying, just use a pony wall. Sure but that is more complicated...and I was almost to that point when I went back to check an old plan and did the old "compare the differences" excercise

I moved this wall out on the floor plan SPV, the dimensions on the roof SPV moved accordingly, but if I move the dimension and then try and get back the dimension to the main layer, it will not snap to it.

Anyone seen something like this? 

If I delete it and then click on the auto exterior it then finds it correctly. But why doesnt it work when I manually try and snap to it?  

8 hours ago, Joe_Carrick said:

There's only one Plumbing Fixture Catalog that I know of in Chief - Kohler

there are a few in the core and bonus catalog, but I just checked and they have the same issue

18 hours ago, johnny said:

but just to show you another "format"

That is an impressive set.

what is 4 for this below? it says sheathing, but I think maybe the line should go across the truss to the vertical cross hatched pline?

..and a little typo "EXSPSOED" ...I do these all the time... only to find them way after I sent them out

went to white where? screenshot? the plan?

there are people that sell more advanced templates. @Renerabbitt

And people that sell other types of packages @Joe_Carrick

and people that have paid newsletter with tips and tricks and does custom assistance @Alaskan_Son

If your office is just starting out, you might want to evaluate these types of offerings to get a head start which is consistent across all of you in the offcie

you have them in a schedule?

37 minutes ago, Joe_Carrick said:

 

You will probably need to edit the bounding boxes for all toilets since Chief (in most cases) doesn't have those values set correctly.

hmmm ive used the same toilet forever from the CA catalog, and it is at 30" wide...maybe i got lucky...or maybe it is not at 30 and ive been wrong all along!

I will use point to point to drop a marker or use a circle and point to point. I then put a text with leader line to note it is the drain rough in. If you do this before you place the fixture you should have no issue

It's not ideal and perhaps others have a better way.

If I have to move it I can then move the circle or the marker

that is a good tidbit, thanks

I've seen this maybe 3 times in the past year or so but cannot remember the last time. A restart of CA fixes it

1 hour ago, JKEdmo said:

I've struggled with this too.  One thing I've done is first draw the wall with a larger offset -- say 36" -- then move the wall into place.  I've found this can keep the short segment from deleting

this is what I do, by putting a dimension line after drawing the wall further away. then click the wall and the dimension line, and type in the dimension i want