tommy1

Members
  • Posts

    1420
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Reputation

126 Excellent

3 Followers

About tommy1

  • Birthday 04/16/1955

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Houston, Texas
  • Interests
    Riding bicycle.

Recent Profile Visitors

4810 profile views
  1. Try going to Preferences>Architectural>Roofs>place a check in the box for Automatically place roof intersection points.
  2. There are many ways to do this. I think the easiest work-around is to place your post manually however you want. Use the slab tool to make the rock base and make it as tall and wide as you want. Center the slab over the post. I usually do this in a blank plan and size the column to your specs. Take a vector overview and save it as a symbol. Use the symbol in your plan. For the post, if it has crown mold at the top and or trim pieces (moldings) that wrap around the post at different heights, then I'll usually make the post using a soffit tool for it works very well and you can add multiple moldings to it and adjust the height of each molding. So many ways to do this just depending on the look. I also call this a type of craftsman look.
  3. Here is a brief description. I used a crown profile from Chief and combined it with the other profile I made.
  4. Make a molding profile and use it for your lintel for the window.
  5. No, that option doesn't work for me in X12. Chief should get rid of that as on option unless it works in newer versions. If I remember right, you had to import the .alb files into a much earlier version like X1 or X2 first. Then export it as a .calibz file.
  6. new to Chief, saw your post for some power mask that you have.  are they still available for download??

  7. I have been using an Epson WF-7840 wide format printer for a few months now and am happy with it. It lets me scan surveys that are 11"x17" which is helpful for me. Prints up to 13"x19".
  8. I would approach this the same way as Ryan suggests.
  9. Also be sure walls are properly connected.
  10. I have this library if anyone would like it. I don't use the front face with the dials anymore now because everything has gone digital now. I made these back with X1 I think. Someone else on the old forum made the face front with dials for me and it looked really good. I can post it here if anyone wants it. I did post it on the old forum. I have the stretch planes set on the one with the mast and weather head so it can be raised by dragging it up.
  11. You'll probably need to make your own. Since you don't have the plan from which they were made, it's virtually impossible to edit the things you want to edit.
  12. You can use different layers for the dimensions you want to display. I do it all the time in almost every plan.
  13. Christian, I'm sorry to hear about your problems. I've known Annette for many years. She is one of the kindest people and was always willing to help anyone. She's done complicated plans and never heard of any complaints. She's very good at what she does. I know she tries to be as accurate as she can be. She is far superior to me on doing basements since we don't have basements here in Houston. I've always known her to do good plans and am aware of awards given to her. I also know she tried to deliver the best plans possible given the information provided.
  14. I generally place all my posts and beams manually. This way, I can set them exactly how I want them as well as making everything dimension the way I want to. Really doesn't take long. I also put them on their own layers.