GeneDavis

Imagine the drainage problems this roof creates. There are six points where gable rakes die into cricket roofs, where the carpenters will need to do mini-crickets overframed atop the bottom ends of the valleys the large crickets create. This is a plan hallucinated by a "designer," one no experienced architect would doodle even on her worst day. Edit: Here is a pic of the way the garage roof should resolve onto the adjacent house roof. The designer did not draw this, though, and gable-ended the garage over the lower house roof. To look right, that gable has the same overhang as every other gable in this fantasy roofscape, which means the rakes die onto the lower roof. Hipping like this avoids that and results in good drainage. And here is a pic of the mess you get yourself into when your designer does the gable thing. I began the work of placing a 3:12-pitch cricket in one of the two problem corners. A skilled attentive builder with good carpenters, sheet metal guys, and roofers can get this to work, but too often things go wrong.

I see what's going on. I would manually roof the plan. The elevations give enough info to do all you need. Those roof planes you have colored, the two that flank the high roof gable ends, are crickets. It's how Iearned to use Chief, that is, get images of a stock plan, and go to work, screencapping plan views and elevation views and importing the pics into your plan, resizing as needed to get close to the right scale. See the missing line in that plan view you have for a source? The garage's right end is a gable, and the line for the gable is missing in the plan view. I did not open your plan. How certain are you that the footprint of exterior walls matches the source plan?

I uninstalled and did a new install, and tried to open the file that was open and Chief locked up. Won't open, message says file is corrupted. In project mode, where are the archives?

Here is the error message. It locked up earlier today when doing a camera move in 3D vector mode, and I had to do a hard shut down (press and hold power button.) How is a reinstall done?

Screencaps would be nice. Go to Edit > Default Settings > Walls > Exterior Walls and select Exterior Walls, then Wall Types, Define, and click on the main layer which should be the framing layer. Show us the screen. Your stud spacings should be set to 24". Now to to the plan that is misbehaving, select an exterior wall that you know framed instead at 16" centers, open the wall, its wall def, select the framing layer, and show us what the screen is displaying.

In previous versions, the molding p-line with break at door casings without doing jumps, and the segment across a door, from outside casings, would be "no molding on selected edge." X17 wants to jump the molding p-line, and the results are not right. A jump turn is made, and the molding gets mitered. Bug? See the pics.

3D > Materials > Plan Materials, select the floor finish you want to rename, copy it to make a new material, call it whatever you want, maybe ROB 3-4-5, and then change the rooms to have the new shorter-name flooring, which will look the same as the one you copied.

OK, @jorgearaya, if that is what it is designed to do, but fails with respect to getting results I need, and no way to fix, what is that different tool? Or more but not to the point, then, what is this Rotate Plan tool designed to do? What is it's purpose? If Edit > Edit Area is the right approach (I've used it before), why this thing? I solved my dilemma using Edit > Edit Area. And edited truss did not survive the rotation and I had to re-do it, but that was all.

I used Tools > Rotate Plan View and my elevation callouts (Front Elevation, Left Elevation, etc.) are wrong for me now, and my Y axis is plus down and not plus up.

But I'd like to do it without the appliance. I do other appliances that aren't in libraries.

I know I have done this successfully before but cannot remember the method for spec. I do a trashbin pullout (Rev-a-shelf hardware) drawer in most kitchens I model. See the pic here. How do I get the handle up and onto the top rail of the paneled drawerfront, instead of the center? I cannot get a handle on it if I spec it as a door panel or drawer panel. As shown in pic, when I spec it as a drawer (which it is), I cannot move the handle where wanted without affecting the drawer above. If I spec it as a bottom hinged drawer, I get the handle where I want, but I don't want the opening indicator.

I am having an awful time with X17 locking up when in a standard camera view or in PBR. Even when in perspective framing overview, with the standard camera view showing all that fir grain on every stud, cripple, rafter, and beam, any mouse move with the camera makes my laptop lock. The only out is a hard close via holding down the power button. Wanting to see what my exteriors look like after making changes in 2D, or wanting to see roomscapes, I do a lot of perspective camera viewing, moving the camera when in view with the mouse. I've had dozens of lockups when doing this. You can view my system specs in my sig. The driver is the 32.0.15.7700 from July 12, 2025. I went to put that newer one in but read the warning in the recent thread about that one causing crashes. What I want is to set my Chief to use vector view no patterns as the default camera setup whenever I go to perspective overview and perspective framing overview. I think this will solve my problem. I know I can change the camera view type when the view opens, but I want the view to open in what I am now considering "safe from lockup" mode. How is this done?

I've one room in this project drawn with a ceiling plane pitched to match roof above. I drew parallel chord trusses and all are OK, but I need one joist at the wall and it draws level. Is this a bug?

Here is a pic of my driver detail.

What's irregular? i go through the entire project imagining it fully framed, room by room, roof plane by roof plane, and focus first on all the structural bearings. Walls, beams, columns, posts. Ceiling framing comes last, but i've already considered it in deciding whether ceiling framing bears on top wall plates or if a wall balloon-frames through. Post your plan, stripped of everything not structural, so we can see what you've got. No cabinets, no appliances, no plumbing fixtures. Just all the walls, platforms, roofs, with all the window and door openings.

My standard detail for wall cabinets is to raise the deck 1-1/4", make the door overhang the deck bottom that same amount, and place a 3/4" x 1-1/8" light rail under the deck flush to the front, right behind the door. It works to house and mask my undercab LED tape lighting (WAC) and my angled plugmold at rear wall detail. Using the faceframed option for carcases, separation set to 3/4, add at the bottom front an opening 1-1/4" h., and make the door reveal for the deck (the bottom 3/4" "separation," -1-1/4". For joined runs of wall cabs, I want the end cabs, those with finished ends (sides), I leave the side alone, but any sides that butt to another wall cab get the "custom face" treatment to the side that abuts, adding the same opening at 1.25" to the bottom. To be a purist, I do the same at the back with the bottom opening. The cabinet shop builds these boxes this way: for 36" tall cabs, the doors are 35-7/8" tall (my top reveal for wallcabs is 1/8"), the carcases are 36 - 1.25 = 34.75" tall, and any that are ends have the appropriately side 36" high, the 1.25" overhang at bottom. You can see the results of my doodling in the pic below. It's an end box, the near side flush to the deck bottom, the far side overhanging to match the door. The light rail molding is something I do after a cab arrangement is all final, and is done with the molding tool. It's not within the cabinet modeling dialog. I don't know how to remove that little stile stub you see in the near bottom corner. Maybe @MarkMc can weigh in here and show us how.

Thanks! That's it. Wonder why it is considered an interior wall. I could not find any Chief traning vids about clerestory windows and walls.

Three pics attached. Exterior view, wall opened for spec (note it is checked as attic), section. I am unable to specify different casing, sill, and apron trim for exterior and exterior.

I thought I liked the setup whereby you "store" the images in the project, until I ran into this. The hack I just did was to export the image to my desktop, from where it is readily "importable" to a layout page. To keep the desktop clean, I delete it from there after importing to the Chief layout page. I tested saving the layout, then going to desktop and deleting the image file, then reopening the layout, and the image is still there. But this sucks. Chief should have thought this through. Look at all the images they have in any of their samples of layouts. One should be able to send any image in the project file directly to layout.

Before 17 I sent any pics or screencaps I wanted to use, to my project folder created by me. It was easy to email images to clients, and easy to import pics to layout. I cannot see how to import the pics in the project to layout. What is the secret?

It was a Windows issue and tech support Brian walked me through the fix.

Here is what I see when I try.

I wanted to try this and at first thought Chief might have such a thing without needing to get too creative, but no. I never had the need to do one before, but was surprised at how easy Chief makes it. Thanks, folks. Draw glass wall placed right atop the tub rim after setting tub, and place a slider bypass door centered in the glass wall. Open a window alongside that is the wall elevation, and edit top and bottom of wall so it's sitting on the tub with top where needed. I used Kohler's spec for one and my door is 54" tall. In the plan view window, edit the door so its extents are at the walls. Open for spec and size the head, jambs, and sills to your preferences, edit materials per your prefs (I did mine in polished chrome), and decide how you want to accessorize it with hardware. Finding no elements in Chief libraries for the bar handles and the track rollers, I did them using p'line moldings and solids. The only little thing off is that since I built up wall thickness in the tub alcove with material region wall tile with built-up thickness like it would actually be built, the side jambs appear embedded in the walls a little. I'll doodle around and find a way to fix it.

Or give a cloud link.

Looks like the @DefinedDesignpost is about Ply Gem windows. I'd never get into the specifics of window or door opening sizes unless the job's being panelized, and I size windows (not their ROs) in whole inches, always dimensioning to centers.