GeneDavis

You cannot use a ceiling plane for this, or the ceiling definition with an airgap material spacer, because they stop the sheetrock at the wall intersect and delete it from the structural ceiling above. Here is a pic showing a ceiling plane doing its thing (not wanted) and a solid painted "drywall" beyond which behaves OK for your need. You can manually frame above it and place recessed lighting, manually locating the light elevations as needed. Recessed lights don't cut drywall (I've suggested they do for better photorealism), Chief models them as paste-ons.

How does it handle the various ways to do 3-drawer bases? There are three drawers all same height. There are one shallow over two deep. And two shallow over one deep.

Start at the top floor, go down.

Mr Google the AI bot directed me here, also. I get far better results chasing answers to Chieftalk topics using Google than the search here.

Or turn off framing for doing renders. You really only need it for doing the framing parts of con docs.

As you can see from Mark's reply, there is a lot to do to get to where the Chief documents can get used to build a cabinet order that is exactly right for the job, with everything built and arriving ready to install without errors. Are you the one placing orders for the Medallion cabinets? Can you describe how it's done now? Examine Mark's schedule, the second one, and the level of detail he's added in the remarks column. Are you doing this now for your projects?

I didn't download your plan, but your pics don't show any elements of a floor frame, and rims are part of the floor frame. And of course, if your floor structure is a slab, there are no rims. So define the floor structure if it's wood framed, and reframe.

Top of plate to top chord top, at baseline (which you should always locate at main layer outside).

I got the no-posted-plan blues. Hey @h82fail, learn how to zip or shrink the plan file so it is under 15 bigs, then close Chief, and attach here to a post. If it's huge, it's likely so because it's full of symbols. Strip it of all save the structure. Windows and doors are OK. And where'd "fail" come from? Wouldn't you rather be a winner with this software?

I do wall art as a 3D solid and "paint" it (apply material) that is the image I want. These "pictures" won't display in Chief's 2D wall elevations, which default as vector views. Bob is showing you a standard view of a wall. Just change your view type from vector to standard.

Here's the one I did. Not sure how the woodgrain will work as I have not tried to import it. I only needed two woodgrain textures, the dark red oak from the library, and a copied version of it I rotated 45 degrees to make the arc segment of the door glass surround. Hybrid arch cab door.calibz

Here it is. Six separate parts, including the glass. And the cabinet with a pair of them.

The arch in the photo has no horizontal straight. The arc begins at the top and comes down to the side in tangency. A vertical stretch plane is of no use, which is why I said to model the door to the size needed and not rely on Y sizing.

The pair are pocket doors, BTW. Look closely at the image and you'll see the R door in the pocket, its knob plainly visible. Make each, a R and a L, in Chief using CAD or countertop tool to create a custom door in the exact size needed. It won't look good stretched or shrunk horizontally but will do OK vertically. Your biggest challenge will be to do the wood grain texture for the frame of the arch. Break up the surfaces as they are on the cab door in the photo, so you can apply separate textures to each. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kOskWRVtps0&loop=0

@GawdziraI'll write the suggestion, but first would like some direction as re preference. Custom bevel rip at top? Custom plain square rip at top? Should square or beveled be box-checked? How to report on Material List? Next widest? What about bay blocking for truss framed roofs, and big tall heels?

No venting if it's a conditioned attic, typically insulated with closed cell spray foam against the underside of the roof deck. i don't bother Chief-framing those blocks, but do address them with CAD details.

That one won't do. Look up Chief's recommended specs. Google works.

If we are talking about sink vanities in bathrooms, how can you best find a look someone likes unless they have been very specific. And words simply don't do it. With all the images posted online at sites like Houzz, and at most every architectural firm's and custom builder's websites, it is really easy for clients to snip pics of arrangements they like. I prefer them doing the work of finding those images and sending them to me, rather than me dreaming up something. Even when you get an image, you need to dig into its details and find out from the client what it is they are trying to communicate to you. Is it only the color or texture? Is there some tiny element of the design they want, and nothing else in the photograph interests them? For cabinetry, that is why a showroom with all the many displays of cab types, euro frameless, inset, rustic, whatever, plus the decks of finish samples and large arrays of drawer and door samples, is the only real way to boil it down so you can proceed without consequence of changed minds.

@shirleloshem this forum is for users of Chief Architect Premiere users. Users of Home Designer have their own site. You might want to repost this roof issue topic there.

Can't be that old. Just get the plans used to build it. What's that funky triangular section at the inside corner near plan left down?

For things to work with a built 2-story plan then wanting to raise ceiling of part (or all) of floor 1, edit the rooms of floor 2 to perform the raise, then go to 1 and do what's necessary. Is this the tray ceiling job? Why not post the plan?

I am sorry I am so dense but I have no idea what you did or are saying. All I want to do is extend faceframe stiles to the floor. There are no settings I see that accomplish this, and no instructional videos (I learn from videos or from someone giving good step by step instructions) on the Chief site or on YouTube to show how to do this.

What is needed is not solved with pilasters. Go back and see the cabinet I show in 3D in my opening post, above. Look closely at the right end base cabinet in the group shown in the photo, attached. The inset-door faceframe has its stiles extended to go to the floor, and there may or may not be a block behind as I imagined in my Sketchup workup, to give the flush integral stile pilaster (my name for this) a columnar appearance at the foot.

Mark, you are giving us a stream of consciousness that only the SuperChiefCabPros can follow. Thanks for the innovative solution, but some how-to is needed. If you've the time, would you please write the steps, 1, 2, 3 etc. to accomplish what you did? To me it looks as if you made some kind of three sided cabinet, 4" tall, using just doors, doors you made with solids converted to door symbols. Flesh that out a little so us dummies can do it too. And where does the molding come into play? The cabs above must be stacked and centered and positioned 4" off floor so as to look like what you showed. Correct? You say default separation as 0" but what is that doing? Why can't just any cabinet sit atop the base? Jon's first pic shown upthread shows a pair of cabinets that have overlay fronts, not inset. What does separation at zero do for this?