GeneDavis

Make a suggestion to Chief in the other forum section. There is much we cannot do on stair treads, and this is one of those.

I don't see a way, like the way we had before this release came with its project management. I've a plan file in a project, and want to begin the layout. I know the layout will default to an Arch D size but I want it to open using and Arch C template that is available. Except I see no way to choose.

I realized too late that I had selected an ARCH B but now need the ARCH C template. Show me the way, please. The pic is showing the layout set on ARCH C paper. I need the ARCH C borders, title boxes, etc.

Mr Rabbet's vid shows making a material region then making it an architectural block. I select the object (the region I made on a west wall) and see no way to make it a block. What's wrong?

I balloon-framed the endwall and that did not do it. I unblocked the lower two, tried blocking the upper two, and that's not working. Attached is a pic of the entry door with sidelites, those done as a three-stack, and they block fine. Block two, then block the block to the other. As I said in the opener, I can get this to work by raising the room hight so the window is in the same room as the blocked unit below, but doing that raises the plate heights of the 9/0 sidewalls, something I don't want to do. I can edit the framing, I guess, but would rather this work. I can see when doing 3D floor overviews that the upper window is modeled in the attic, and not modeled on floor 1. The opening is there, but not the window.

See the pic. The window stack at left, two windows mulled, has its top height at 8 feet in a room specified as 9/0 ceiling, no flat ceiling above. I drew ceiling planes to vault the space. The window stack at center is desired to be a three-high stack, mulled, and I cannot get the top unit to mull to the mulled stack below. I select the stack below, and shift select the top window, and I do not get the blocking option. I want the ceiling height at 9/0 to control wall heights and wall framing.

I'd just draw it using the OOB X17 glass pony wall, set lower wall height at 5", place a 26" wide door in center, in wall elevation edit the door to be a 3/8 glass slab, no casing no frame, bottom of door 5 1/4" up, top of door 74", drag down wall top to be a tiny bit above door top, and 3D solid continuous (and necessary) top rail. See rails at the CR Lawrence site. Then place the glass clips, and spec the door pull. What's the problem

Chief framing ain't good in roof overhangs. If I am doing 3D for renders, I turn off all framing. 2D framing plans, and CAD details plus edited section views (CAD to view is perfect for this!) get the job done.

Here are screencaps that point out this behavior quite clearly. I placed three windows, edited all to have 3" frame thickness top, sides, and bottom. I then moved things so two are a pair, and blocked ("mulled") them. The casing reveals were then edited. Here is what the reveal spec is for the single window. 3" reveal exposes the entire 3" frame all four sides. This placement of exterior casing is typical for clad windows or flanged vinyl windows. The blocked pair unit needs a different value to place the casings so they match the single window. Here you see the reveal edited to 0, and using that value for reveal places the casing to match that of the single window. This view shows the two windows, the single and the blocked pair, side by side, exhibiting same casing placement, but having different reveal specs. Can anyone explain why Chief set this up this way?

I am taking pains to do windows and framing and trim for a project with mulled units close adjacent single windows. I have made the frames and sash in sizes that match the specified windows (Andersen series 100). Horizontal window and trim lines are important to the look wanted. Frame width of these fixed windows is 1 15/16". Exterior casings are 5/4 x 4 (1 x 3 1/2" actual). As you all know, clad windows have exterior casings that butt to the perimeter of the projecting frames, so if we are using the term "reveal" in the dialog spec entry to place casings properly, we enter 1 15/16" for these windows. It works as expected for the single window, but not for the stacked (blocked) unit. That unit is specified with reveal specified as zero. Why this difference?

Hi @TSarantopulos What version of Chief? Need to know. I might know how to do it quickly in X whatever, but we don't know what you are using. Best way to tell us is in your sig line. See mine. Go to your account settings, find "signature," and give us the digits.

None of us like to download pics from links. Attach them right in your post, and it always helps to post a plan file.

Easy to make one. Set the symbol's origin so it sits how you want. You might even try the wrap.

There was an older post about the spin rate and how to slow it down, and @Alaskan_Sonsaid to change the setting in the camera positioning tab, to lower the rotation angle. I changed it from the OOB 10 down to 1 and it made no diff.

How is this done? I see no option. Maybe I can do a screen recording of the building rotating slowly, viewed in framing overview. How might that be done?

Eric has the answer! I did a search and confirmed my initial thought, that these are done with extruded aluminum frames. A very cool modern look, although just as for open front cabs, whatever you store inside had better look good. Not a good look for where I store my baking flours and seeds. https://www.scavolini.com/us/magazine/the-elegance-of-kitchens-with-aluminium-framed-glass-doors Edit: having built lots of cabinets, I couldn't help myself, and looked up how these might be hinged. The Salice Air Hinge is the answer. Have a look.

Stile and rail doors with glass panels? Or glass slab doors?

@NewUserSargentSource of the design? Is it yours? Do you know how to build a cricket? If the plan's from a web page, post a link, please.

Imagine the drainage problems this roof creates. There are six points where gable rakes die into cricket roofs, where the carpenters will need to do mini-crickets overframed atop the bottom ends of the valleys the large crickets create. This is a plan hallucinated by a "designer," one no experienced architect would doodle even on her worst day. Edit: Here is a pic of the way the garage roof should resolve onto the adjacent house roof. The designer did not draw this, though, and gable-ended the garage over the lower house roof. To look right, that gable has the same overhang as every other gable in this fantasy roofscape, which means the rakes die onto the lower roof. Hipping like this avoids that and results in good drainage. And here is a pic of the mess you get yourself into when your designer does the gable thing. I began the work of placing a 3:12-pitch cricket in one of the two problem corners. A skilled attentive builder with good carpenters, sheet metal guys, and roofers can get this to work, but too often things go wrong.

I see what's going on. I would manually roof the plan. The elevations give enough info to do all you need. Those roof planes you have colored, the two that flank the high roof gable ends, are crickets. It's how Iearned to use Chief, that is, get images of a stock plan, and go to work, screencapping plan views and elevation views and importing the pics into your plan, resizing as needed to get close to the right scale. See the missing line in that plan view you have for a source? The garage's right end is a gable, and the line for the gable is missing in the plan view. I did not open your plan. How certain are you that the footprint of exterior walls matches the source plan?

I uninstalled and did a new install, and tried to open the file that was open and Chief locked up. Won't open, message says file is corrupted. In project mode, where are the archives?

Here is the error message. It locked up earlier today when doing a camera move in 3D vector mode, and I had to do a hard shut down (press and hold power button.) How is a reinstall done?

Screencaps would be nice. Go to Edit > Default Settings > Walls > Exterior Walls and select Exterior Walls, then Wall Types, Define, and click on the main layer which should be the framing layer. Show us the screen. Your stud spacings should be set to 24". Now to to the plan that is misbehaving, select an exterior wall that you know framed instead at 16" centers, open the wall, its wall def, select the framing layer, and show us what the screen is displaying.

In previous versions, the molding p-line with break at door casings without doing jumps, and the segment across a door, from outside casings, would be "no molding on selected edge." X17 wants to jump the molding p-line, and the results are not right. A jump turn is made, and the molding gets mitered. Bug? See the pics.

3D > Materials > Plan Materials, select the floor finish you want to rename, copy it to make a new material, call it whatever you want, maybe ROB 3-4-5, and then change the rooms to have the new shorter-name flooring, which will look the same as the one you copied.