GeneDavis

Beaded panel doors are possible. Model one yourself using countertop tools, save it as a door, with appropriate stile and rail widths and stretch planes. Beaded faceframe surrounds are above my pay grade. See what one of the cab gurus has to say. I'm sure one will be along soon.

Try making a symbol of the railing molding you want, doing a 2D molding polyline, select, make symbol, and then see if you can rotate the symbol the way you want in the symbol's spec dialog for 3D. I threw on onto a barn wall as shown.

Please go to your user profile and write a signature script like all of us here have done to show our software, system, add ons, etc. We can help only if we know more about you and your setup. Then watch this video and come back with some more detail to your question. It is always best to have tried and failed, and include as an attachment your Chief plan file with the problem described clearly. https://www.chiefarchitect.com/videos/watch/10249/dormers-floating-structural-roof-style-options.html

And there's the $85K add-on for the 2-bay garage extension to house her Bentley and his 911 GT3-RS.

Don't forget the special ventilation. Here is a good source for information. https://spireranges.com/how-to-build-an-indoor-shooting-range-backstop/#:~:text=A backstop comprises an earth,boundaries of the shooting selection. And this video might make your client think twice about putting one inside. $400K is a big tab. The really easy way is an outdoor range with a berm backstop of one made of a bunch of railroad ties, but you need a huge country lot on which to do that.

Looks like it's all done. Are you doing this in order to learn how to use Chief?

Are the plans yours? How about you do screencaps of the elevation views from the plans, and post here. Dormers are usually a challenge for new users.

Came through for me using X16. It is a symbol and @Renerabbitt is being coy by shipping it that way. He should give you an X15 .plan file so you can open it, since you are not on X16. I can view and use the symbol, but as a symbol it's essentially a locked-up 3D object and we cannot see how he built it. Further, I don't believe symbols will report materials.

Can any of you ultra-creative Chiefers think of a way to do trusses that are piggybacked? And have it all be invisible with no roof plane seams when viewing in 3D overview or elevations?

https://www.chiefarchitect.com/videos/watch/51/creating-a-walkout-basement.html?playlist=88 https://www.chiefarchitect.com/videos/watch/402/stepping-a-foundation.html?playlist=88

OK @Alaskan_Son, things are not going the way I want. In my job with all walls nominally 9/0 tall, studs all the precuts at 8'-8 5/8", there are a lot of door and window openings with trimmer in 8'-1" lengths, and the material list buy list is wanting to cut every one of these from a 16' piece. Per your observation and comment, I've sequenced the member reporting with two lengths only, 15' first, then 8'-8 5/8". Pieces 8'-1" go first to the 16, get cut, leave 7'-11 minus the kerf, and I get stuck with a whole bunch of off falls at this length. What can be done to ensure the trimmers instead get cut from the 8'-8 5/8" lengths? Shouldn't a part first go for the nearest buy length that first exceeds the cut length?

@Steve_Nyhofplease describe your procedure in creating the garage door symbols. Show us with screencaps if you have the time. An example of a garage door I did is this 6' w x 8' h overhead door with lites in the third panel up from bottom. See the two screencaps of my Sketchup model. I do file>import 3D symbol and find the .skp file in my files, click to import it, then choose that it will be a door, do advanced, then under options, choose garage door from the dropdowns. That's it. Once in, the 3D symbol is opened for placement of stretch planes so the door can behave parametrically. What was your process?

For a house framed with exterior walls in 2x6, interior walls in 2x4, and 9/0 nominal ceilings everywhere, I set the buy list to have two lengths only of each size. Thus for 2x6 size, the two lengths are 8'-8 5/8" and 16'. My problem is that the wall plates (and maybe opening header parts also), many being less than 8'-8 5/8", seem to be chopped from the shorter parts, and not the 16s. I have checked in the setup for structural member reporting that wall plates are to come from longest size, but I don't know how this works in the code to produce buy list part counts. In the image attached, a screencap from my material list, you can see plenty of the 9/0 precut buy list parts counted to do wall plates and headers.

I am a long time Sketchup user and for me it's easy to create doors and then import them into Chief. The symbol-import dialog allows you when importing to do DOOR category and then when checking advanced options to create the symbol as a garage door. When I do a garage door this way it gives the ability to select it in the door spec dialog from library AFTER placing a default garage door. Doing it all inside Chief, i.e., creating a door using solids then blocking or whatever, if the same sequence of symbol creation, DOOR, then ADVANCED, then in options, GARAGE DOOR, you get the same results.

Hi @Joe_Carrick@Steve_Nyhof@Chrisb222 this whole exercise has me a little confused. I have made garage door symbols and placed them in my user library, and can place a default garage door first, and then open the door for edit of its spec, and change it to one of my catalog doors. My user catalog doors (the ones I made) can also work by direct placement, that is, with the garage door tool active, I can click one of my doors in my user library panel and click/place it on a wall. That click/place works with the doors I have from Steve, but Steve's cannot be found if I do a garage door as described in the above paragraph. The do not appear in the library when in the dialog. See pic attached. So what is the difference between how I did my garage door symbols, and how Steve did his?

My stack/group is two moldings. You can stack/group as many as you want, and they don't even have to be snugged. See pic. But back to this particular thread topic. The OP should explore doing the molding on the default wall cabinet, and in plan, just place and size boxes. Voila! The groups of wall cabs will have the desired crownmold running continuously.

I group moldings regularly, particularly crowns on wall and tall cabinets. Sounds like stack is just another term for what I call grouping.

"Stack?" What does that mean? I put a crown molding on top of my default wall cab, placed two touching with zero clearance, and could not reproduce what you got. I separated them 1" apart and got the autofill between and still, no reproduction of what you got. So each cab builds with molding all four top edges, but when they join, the molding goes around the pair. You should maybe do the moldings on your default wall cab and see how it works for you. You only have to do molding once.

And I have now discovered that this is the ONLY way these library doors can be placed. Thanks.

There are, but for some reason when I go to my user library in the door spec dialog, which is the only way to get a garage door in a plan, I do not see the same library items I see when I view my user library in the library panel. The library panel has the doors with glass, the library is not the same as when going to the user library in the door spec panel. Here I show the selection I get in the door spec.

@Steve_NyhofThanks for doing garage doors but I cannot figure how to get a door with lites in the top panel, using your .lib items. When I look at my user library in the library panel, I can see the various choices, but when I go to select a library item in the door spec dialog, they aren't there. All I have is the single panel strips, which repeat to populate the whole door opening, but I want lites in the top row.

Try extending the radials an inch or so outside. The top ends.

I do the door with its handle side closing to all-glass adjacent, so the continuous seal lip strip has a common surface for its seal fin. The down-low spout you see is called a toe-tester. You go into the shower, close the door, open the valve, which results in water coming from spout and not showerhead. Run it until your toes say just perfect warm, and press the diverter button. You can buy toe tester spouts two ways, one with diverter in the spout, the other without diverter. I specify without, and a shower control with a button diverter.

Did you try a pony wall there, the one OOB that is called shower wall, and making an end to end door?

Thanks, Steve. I was just wishing that Chief gave us a few-clicks way of specifying the exposed step edge. In the attached screencap, you can see how I model it as it typically gets built. You can look through dozens of shower photos on the Houzz site to see this. The wall cap almost always has overhangs both sides, the inside tile side and the sheetrock outside. It is dressed flush to the step face, and the step face is tiled with the same material as the shower walls. I had to model a solid at 1/16" thickness to mask the wall step edge, which was showing all the layers of the wood-framed lower section of the pony wall: sheetrock, framing, rock, membrane, thinset, and tile. The mask is painted to match the subway tile of the walls.