GeneDavis

Show us with a screencap what Chief is doing, please.

What I meant was to refer to the picture. Door on left is LEFT. As in, where it is. Not how it is hinged or how it swings.

@ImNewHereChief's default arrangement, when specifying a corner cabinet, is for the doors to be hinged together and opened using the single knob shown in the screenshot here. The hinges used are 135 degree blind-corner type. I do this for all the corner cabs I do, and this setup is seen in almost every kitchen cabinet showroom you tour. You never came back and stated what you were after, so I am showing here that Chief defaults to this type of action. For other types, you can do things with two cabinets like others mention upthread.

Describe L to R how you want the doors hinged and knobbed. There are various ways to do this. Example: LEFT DOOR, knob on L, hinge on R. RIGHT DOOR: no knob, hinge on R.

A warped roof like what you seem to want is either a roof-framers nightmare or his crowning achievement, as it will require tiny pitch changes with each set of rafters, bending sheathing, and more fun things. Also, it is impossible to draw using Chief roof tools, which only produce flat planar or cylindrical surfaces.

What software you using? And on what machine? Take the time to go to your profile and create a signature text, so we can better help. Here is a dimensioned wall detail. Is this what you want to do?

Show us all you have to work with. Pictures, plan views, elevations, etc. Your "backing onto a rock wall" thing needs to be better explained. Attach all directly, and not as downloads, please. As for how-to, Chief has many many instructive videos.

I think you have another case of a plan drawn in 2D by someone who didn't use 3D to generate elevations, thus you may have something you cannot replicate in Chief.

Gotta wait for Chief. This, and more, has been suggested as needed stair tool additions.

I've a simple one floor house and have truss-framed the roof, and now want a six-truss run, 10 feet in length, to all be attic trusses so we can have a platform deck on which to mount HVAC equipment. The depth of the bottom chord for the rebuild is unknown but it's certainly not 3.5". Do I just draw my "room" with invisible attic walls and guess the floor structure at, say, 7.25"? And the rebuild the affected trusses?

I did not download, but have a q. "glass panel, with 1/2" lites" Do you mean 1/2" muntins?

This presumes you need us to look at something in the building. Copy it, then strip the copy of all that is not stuctural. Remove terrain, fixtures, furniture, clean off any weird textures you may have applied, the file is to contain no plants, no people, no nothing but walls, floors, roofs, windows and doors.

I hope I stated this so as to be understood. I need a larger scale for some details I want to do, and having a default set for 1" = 1'-0", went ahead and wrote a new default set for 1 1/2". I had already created a text style for this new scale. I'll need to write the appropriate specs for rich text, arrows, callouts, and the rest, but for now I am starting with text. See here that my newly created text style appears in the lineup. Now see here, in this screencap of the default set dialog, I cannot see the text style in the dropdown, and thus cannot assign it to this default set. What am I missing?

Pretty long discussion for a Home Designer 2026 issue.

I made a house with enough roof area to do what I wanted, then manually cut a hole in the roof and built the dormer walls connected to interior walls so as to have it be a "room" with a ceiling and roof over, then used a different wall type to draw the three balcony walls, and manually adjusted their shapes. It's a mess, but it's a start. You can use the window tool, pass-through type, to make the scuppers. If you can shape windows into a trapezoid, you can shape pass-throughs. I think the glass and metal railings will need to be modeled manually using whatever you like. Solids would be my choice. Others might use cabinets.

Did you see this? https://www.chiefarchitect.com/videos/watch/5202/creating-floor-platforms-that-hang-inside-walls.html?playlist=144 Try building with a 4-1/2" thickness mudsill and then editing it to a 3-stack after your framing is all the way you want it.

Why three? Is it to get your wall finish closer to grade?

Raise the larger roof plane 10 inches? Those rafters likely bear on a plate atop the floor frame.

X17 Help describes its operation and shows the tool.

You know that CTRL+ALT bends an arrow, right? Click its arrowhead end, hold the two keys, and move curser around. Play with it. Might be useful for you.

OK I figured out what's up with this. The appliance from Chief's library is placed in the cabinet's center, in plan view. Most call this "dropping it in." Done that way, there is no issue with placing it in a 24" wide base. Here is what Chief does to the 3D appliance, so be aware. The product has a total height of its front equal to 15 7/8", so if your opening height is that number, the oven will be put into the cab with its correct height. But Chief will put it into a 13" high opening, and also a 17" high opening, shrinking it on its Z axis or stretching it to fit the hole.

Hey @steve_stuart, to paraphrase the Bee Gee's song, "How deep is your cab?" Actually, give us ALL your cab specs. Framed or frameless, separation, width of cab, height of cab, depth, run from top to bottom of front to give us the top separation, the opening height, the separation under the MW, and the reveals for each of those two separations. I cannot get it into and opening if I make the opening the size of a garage.

The appliance-insert method within the cabinet spec dialog won't give me the 3D result I want. I'm doing a frameless base, 3/4" sides, 3/4" "separation" and am looking at Sharp's installation instructions that call out an opening of 22 1/8" opening in a 24" wide cabinet. I have installed these and it's always been in a 24-wide box, with a 22.5" opening width. I tried it and Chief says no, need larger cabinet. The image here shows what I get when I manually insert the appliance into my 24-wide box. Exactly the look I want. It is the KB6524PSY from Chief's Sharp manufacturer catalog. But why doesn't it work as appliance insert in the cab spec dialog?

I solved it! Import the object and check it in as an interior fixture, and checking advanced options. It's not intuitive, but just as you do for the Rev A Shelf pullout, you go into the drawer spec checking the appliance thing, and you can then in the next spec page that opens, ID the pullout object as a pullout. In the pic shown here, the one on the L is for spices, the Hafele one on the R is for oils, vinegars, and any other cooking pourables that come in tall slim bottles. The flank the range.

Study the photos and you'll see the ridge jump on the main left wing. It's that jump that raises the front roof plane so its eave is above the porch roof. That rise is not in back, where the porch roof's ridge matches the high roof's eave, where they join. That roof feature, front plane eave raised above a porch roof, is seen on so many "modern farmhouse" plans, it's become an architectural tic.