Greg_NY61

I don't understand the first part of your question Greg. With a pier in the crawl space, where is the slab? The footing for the outer perimeter foundation would usually be at or under the basement or crawl space floor but the posts resting on the pier footings need to be clear of the dirt by the 8" (varies by jurisdiction) suggested by Joey.

Hey Larry, What I meant to say we never use wood posts. We use concrete lally column which is rests on top of the footing and when slab is poured, the column is embedded in concrete or we just come up with the block and beam is right on top of that. Footing is always bellow the slab, with that said I guess its the same thing just not use to seeing wood posts supporting anything in the basement or crawlspace... dahhhh me, its Monday I don't know what the hell I was trying to say when I asked that.  

P.S Larry let me know please when you put that video on your page, I subscribed you on youtube, I will add that to favorites.

Thanks!

I just wanted to clarify something, if doing a pier in the crawl space,etc the top of the footing is always under the slab? Do you guys keep top of the footing above basement or crawl space floor?

I know the only time the top of the footing would be exposed above is on exterior only, like deck, etc where you would want to keep the post connection with a footing above the ground.

X2 what Perry said, that should be part of it to make things easy.

Very nice Joey!

So what was the verdict?

It would be nice if there was  a radio button to control inside color on or off, like same radio button option is used  to select door glass . Right now I been using abstract glass and if anyone requests clear glass, just make a notation "matching interior".

Joe,

It never seems to amaze me how much knowledge you have when it comes to  this and I'm sure other things as well.

I tip my hat to you Joe and I give you my utmost respect and I will take upon myself to thank you on behalf of everyone for everything that you contribute on this site, because you are the man to learn from and I'm sure many as myself appreciate everything that you do.

With that said, this is way too much for me to apprehend, this programing and all, even that simple macro that Richard and Larry threw it out there, when I was trying to mess with so it would include the text... without your help I doubt if I would got that to work... But in any case programing or not I enjoy reading your every article you post.  

Thank you Joe!!!

Interesting stuff you come across in this old houses here is a few pictures one shows a house with what its called brick nogging the house was built in the 1900's second picture is a structural beam over build-out bay  supporting the second floor  by one metal a rod. In the same house I found a medicine bottle in the floor cavity, I guess someone was sick and was taking the medication. The bottle had a drug store address on it in Manhattan, so I did a little research and I found this Pharmacy archives   dated back to 1800's and there it was an article posted in the paper with that store address and the name of the owner, and there was another article about the new bottle style that just came out on the market in 1898 and the medicine bottle I found was in the same bottle. That sweet Spirit Nitre sounds like some potent stuff LOL maybe it was something like the 714 Quaalude of the 80s LOL

I'll share a little history with you guys.

Perry, If its one 2 rooms its no big deal, if its the whole second floor added, everything is rewired. If its sheetrock, its nothing to it. I'm only 54 years old, I'm not gonna say I been doing this as long as you have,but I have about 70 New construction homes under my belt, and about the same # of complete home renovations and additions... Been at it almost 30 years, and I never seen with another floor cavity on top of the ceiling.

If you think about it,  If everything below is not being disturbed, you will not have anything new being installed in that new floor system, there is nothing even to be rerouted in the existing ceiling other than a light fixture  so there is no need for all that just because of the ceiling light? If someone got a problem with a few lights, they should be making hamburgers not building house. 

Perry,

I thought he is talking about second floor addition, so there is no underfloor, there is only ceiling and the attic... this is what I'm talking about. 

Joe,

If I'm redoing the whole thing, the whole place gets gutted, because when you dealing with homes built in 20's, 30, some of them have brick lined walls, etc.and over a certain % area of the total house area in most places is 25% over of total area, you have to bring everything to new code... therefore all ceilings, walls must be down, all old wiring has to be removed, etc. 

If you doing one room addition, and customer don't want anything disturbed (never happened yet), we take the roof off and syster up the joist and put the second floor plywood. No matter how you looking at it, you don't have to disturb existing electric because you need a home run for the new addition and 95% of the time it will be ran on the outside therefore nothing gets disturbed. Also 95% of the time customer wants to upgrade everything below the new area.

Here is a few pictures from 2 jobs I just completed. One, the L shape we sister up the joist, and the second one one story addition on the back we raised the plates to match the floor height, so the ceiling beams get cut out to make the ceiling higher and new framing is going in from there. 

Scott, electrical runs are not being effected, and if something needs to be moved its not even an issue, and looking at that floor assembly you end up with 2' of floor cavity, now you have to deal with draft stopping  and everything else and in general its just wasted space. and wasted material on the exterior... if you have a house lets say 300 ft x 2' you looking at 600SF of siding, sheeting, etc just to wrap that floor system, its a  waste of money.

Nothing against anyone, you guys do what your contractors ask you to do. Around here its unheard of to do anything like that...

Sorry guys, never had any issues whats so ever, not with the need to reroute anything (don't even know what is there to reroute if nothing is above there except a few lights) or never had any problems to run new wiring, or anything else... If you going up with the whole first floor area, all you need is one wire up there, a junction box and you run all your wiring for the second floor from that, your HVAC is going in the attic so there is no need to chop anything on the first floor. If you going up over one area, lets say a split level and you going over cathedral or regular ceiling, there is nothing up there, we get this rooms up in: day 1 demo framing, sheeting, day 2 we install roof...  its a walk in the park to erect another story without the need to build up anything. 

With that said if you going to do that, you might as well pack the plates up, eliminate the ceiling all together and do your typical floor assembly, at least you end up with a taller ceiling...that would make more sense vs. building a whole new deck on top of the existing ceiling.

I guess it all comes down to each its its own.

I don't know why go through so much trouble... We would just sister up the ceiling joist, subfloor (or take them out completely) and off with the second floor you go... Did dozens of add-a-level and never build another deck on top of ceiling joist... never did it that way or see anyone doing it that way.

Very nice Bill! Thank you!

Joey,

 I have all rounded corner bead in my house and used it on a few jobs.I don't think it can do that, I would use ID label referenced to a  CAD detail of that corner with the same label number, unless someone tried to do that and its possible to do.

Here is an example if it helps, just change the CRN Bead Radius if it's different.

I use wired Microsoft's Comfort Mouse 6000. I had this mouse for years and been using for modeling work which is requiring more precision mouse movement. I also use ALLSOP mouse pad with with high sensitization and that gives you a flawless connection with the mouse. When doing work in sketchup big help comes from 3D Connexion navigator, to bad its not available for CA yet, I think the only function works with CA is zoom.

I hope it helps

P.S I have a landscaping design program on my laptop and I use wireless mouse and it sucks.

The only thing I can do is make a round window and using room poly-L I was able to put horizontal mullion but not vertical. I guess like you said, it has to be done custom with a symbol. 

That would be another nice option to add since most round windows have different shape mullions.

I agree with others, IMO he paid for it, he can do whatever he wants with it is how I look at it... If they have a problem, whatever they do, please don't take David kayaking (some will understand the meaning of that) he is too valuable for them, like other guys, Scott, Perry,Richard,Larry, etc Chief should be giving this guys free software and everything that comes with it ehehe...

With that said, what is a big deal if someone shares a library or what ever...if anything the Manufacturer's would be happy to know that theirs products being used and promoted... and if I was one of them, I would give them out for free at the request of the customer, and most already doing that like the decking industry who offer advanced designer tools free of charge, some kitchen designers offer the same... Maybe years ago this was a big deal, today this stuff is available on almost every page of each manufacturer or distributor. 

x2

CTRL + or CTRL -

I tried David's method and if I save the the outlet to the library and try to put back onto the cabinet I get alert that the outlet must be placed on the wall. (maybe it was me).

My method worked pretty good (other then I left some lose outlets on the plan) and I did open the the 2D symbol up to rename it and change its position so it could be seen properly on the 2d plan  but for some reason it didn't take the change and being hectic here in the house on Sunday I didn't bothered to check. I will check to see what happened with that.

Not a pro but will give it a shot ... Should I bring my kayak? LOL

BBB SCOTTS CABINET ELEC OUTLET CHALLENGE Fix.plan

Duplex Outlet.calibz

Just like to add something, the I-joist was invented sometime in 1969, by 2005 probably 1/2 the industry was using I-joist  and 10 years later they just came up with this code?

Someone mentioned they switching back to conventional lumber... I never switched to anything else, I have been stick framing all my homes 250k or 1m price tag and I never had any issues, never squeaky floors  if installers know what they doing, etc. So the lumber had tendency to shrink a little... big deal. Everything shrink and everything moves in the house with seasonal change, so I wouldn't worry much. I would worry about Chinese sheetrock which melted all the wiring and duct work in the wall, the Chinese cabinets that people install like its going out fo style, look at the Lumber Liquidators and all that mess with the formaldehyde flooring they been selling... I rather deal with some shrinkage (you know which one LOL) and a few squeaks than worry about all that other crap that we put into our homes.

As the fires go, and this video they did, anything will burn under most circumstances, especially when you stack 20 hay bales under the deck 1' from the deck which will never happen in the basement and if you have unconditioned basement the fire can occur at the electrical meter because of wire malfunction or at the furnace or a water heater which would be a gas related, but in that case the whole house would go up. 

So how far does this code can go? Today they decided to fire rate TJI's, what is next? 

With that said, if you look at Gov statistics most fires on first or second level and hardly ever in the basement. Main source is the kitchen while cooking and kitchen  is also one of the leading causes of injuries from fire. The rest common causes of fires is at night when carelessly discarded cigarettes, sparks from fireplaces being without spark screens or glass doors, and heating appliances left too close to furniture or other combustibles.  

TJI joist manufacturers started to make TJI joist with what they call  Flak Jacket protection. It's a special coating they apply that provides much better fire resistance and it meets the building  code requirement (the 503.1) so no sheetrock is needed if used on the first floor. They also say that the TJI can be drilled and cut and no special coating needs to be applied to cut area and lalala.The also mention that it will still provide cost efficiency but somehow I doubt that.