Greg_NY61

I know some manufacturers make them, but never seen one yet being installed. You can take a double window from a 3D warehouse upload to sketchup and make a triple hung from it and import into CA as window, that should work. 

3d warehouse has a large selection of Simpson hangers including 3d hold downs, I usually get them from there as needed. Also if you need a specialty hanger and they don't have it, try contacting Simpson Engineering Technology Department, and say you been to a 3d warehouse and you cannot find a certain hanger there for a project and you need to display that on the 3D model and see if they have it... if not there is a good chance they will make it for you. They just made me a  DTT1Z tension hanger I needed for a project, they made it and send it to me within a few days.

Good luck

I hope the same Perry, you experienced, knowledgeable and a great asset to CA community, not to mention a great guy... so I hope you be around for another 100 years.

Double click Roof Icon, select Frieze and  adjust attributes to what you need. 

Where is the plan?

I think so far windows 10 is the best window system they came out with... although XP Pro I was running before the upgrade wasn't to bad, I never had any issues with it as well... and now Windows 10 system runs like a Swiss Clock, no issues what's so ever since the upgrade. Would definitely recommend it without thinking twice.

Must be something with your PC or I'm not sure what format you saved the file or what format you used to export. I downloaded into Sketchup Pro 2016 and saved it in Sketchup 2013 SKP format and imported to CA without issues.

SDMO Generating Set.calibz

Denis I'm not sure what you trying to do. If you dealing with a corner and you cannot use a corner cabinet which comes in 33" or 36" you can order a corner kit from most kitchen manufacturers, which come with a face frame and already attached toekick, with side panels and the bottom shelf which can be trimmed to any size. 

This is a typical raised roof as you would see it on many cape cod homes... the only bad thing about it, it's not feasible to have the framing done this way, it's not a practical way of doing it.

Go into a Default Settings>Dimension>Auto Exterior Dimensions and select how you want the dimensions to be displayed.

Rishele, I did this once for a customer, I made a pLine solid and placed it on the wall, made it 1" thick, put the mirror frame over it and dropped a few puck lights behind, made them 1" thick and put them around Pline solid, the frame will cover them.  Here is something I made quick just to show you, I placed the lights along the top and one side on the right and that is the effect. They should add a strip light to the library unless there is one already someplace, but I couldn't find it.

I hope it helps.

Fellas, keep in mind that winder staircases are definitely not a safe way to go, because stairs change dimensions as you're ascending and descending.

I know around here building departments have strict rules when it comes to winder style staircases. I know it's been said before that building codes don't allow their construction in any manner, and they all require a 10" tread depth along the "line of travel" 12" from the narrow edge of the stair treads, and min 6" at the edge.

A while back there was a lawsuit and everyone lost big time, the township neglected to enforce the code, but they're insured, the designer and the builder got nailed and paid allot of money including punitive damages.

So check with your local building department before you invest your time designing this staircases so builders don't end up  ripping them out (seen that happen to a few contractors)...

As common sense goes, it is a fact that when there is a change of stair dimensions within a single staircase this is the leading cause of staircase accidents and people get hurt.

I haven't seen flush beams on decks in ages, unless this is an older style screened porch, because it uses the frame to transfer roof load right onto the flush beam and down onto the footing instead of the decks cantilevered ledge.

On most decks I use flush beams when framing angled decks, octagons or when building stair landings because doing a cantilevered beam is less practical in these cases. I guess the way CA is designed to a more modern deck construction since not many people do screened porches and prefer more open deck environment.

Same here Ray, we follow 2009 IRC

I agree with Scott and Perry, no way this would fly here... 6" min at the edge and 12" walk line.

What I usually do is select Edit>Reset Defaults and it will give you options, in your case you would set ceiling to defaults. That will fix everything.

Cut a hole on the countertop... In the plan view use Rectangular PLine outline the tub, select and use convert tool to countertop and select Hole in Countertop and you be all set.

Here you go its all fixed. Go to your wall DBX properties and remove #2 wall layer as indicated in the picture. That what caused the window issue.

Matt and Jordan_fix.plan

Is the Cabinet Base Layer turned on?

Okay,  so Greg has complicated things.......    Greg,  are you saying I can have an eave WITHOUT THE ONE HOUR CONSTRUCTION within 5' of property line  (no closer that 2'-6") IF I block the soffit vents and gable end vents.

 

I do not use soffit vents anymore,  I do not use gable vents anymore,  I only use roof top attic vents.  Are you telling me I do not need the fire protection?

Scott, it depends on the jurisdiction, some towns will allow to avoid that when it comes to a single family house, some Towns will go above and beyond. 

Same in my neck of the woods, this is nothing new, it's been enforced for as long as I can remember.Here is something you can use in the future as a guide.

Foot Notes: 

I used invisible wall, made a round room and dropped the floor.

I used invisible wall, made a round room and dropped the floor.

Thanks, buddy! It worked! Actually, even in the regular full camera it was possible to do it. Unfortunately, it isn't possible to determine the exactly height, but it ended up just like I wanted! Thanks a lot!

In cross section you can put a temporary line at  the floor level > use transform/replicate > copy 1 > move in Z Delta ( desired height) and drag the wall to that line and you will have exact height.

Larry, the wall is basically screwed into the top plate and you drill holes through the bottom plates, making sure you have a snug hole ( using same diameter drill as spikes) so there is a tight fit preventing the wall from moving and drive 40-60D spikes and you have a pretty solid wall.

With that said you don't see much of that in any area that I know of around here or heard about anyone using floating wall system. Frankly speaking even the job I did I think the Architect went a little bit over the top with that design, but it was an interesting experience and I was doing some research on that at the time and what I found fascinating, is how they do the "floating slabs" for that type of construction. Some call them "suspended slab" (there is other types and ways of doing this)  but this one involves a reinforced slab with a beam resting on piers with a "collapsible void"  under entire footing. The footing is actually separated brom the soil and the whole footing is fully suspended with the slab spanning between the beams and the beams are spanning between piers... while piers go down anywhere between 6-10' to pass all that expansive soil which is basically affected during seasonal moisture changes and that is what causing all that movement... IMO who ever came up with this design is a fk genius.

Perry, this is only a requirement in areas where you deal with expansive soils, I only did one job being in business almost 30 yrs, where Architect required to make a floating basement slab. Here is another image.