stevenyhof

Ok, just to finish this... Resolved

I called Support and they had me click on the View > Toolbars button. And that worked.

However, for the record, that is the first thing I tried when I first ran into the issue, and nothing happened. But I did not check this button after I reset my toolbar in the Configuration - shown above on the first post.

To conclude, after setting the Active Configuration that you want to use, make sure to go back and click on the View > Toolbars button to make sure it is active

Thank you,

Steve

I just ran the Repair and that didn't help.

I have the list of toolbars showing, they just don't exist on my screen

I ran into this once before, where I open my CA and there are no toolbars on the top and side.

I found that my saved configuration was missing so I added it back in and set it default [ Switch To ]

Nothing happens. 

I even reset my toolbars and still nothing.

Any idea how to get my toolbars back?

Thank you,

Steve

1 hour ago, DeLayDesign said:

Hey @stevenyhof

I apologize if you've already received your answer.

If I'm understanding correctly; you're trying to create a custom object that you can then use as a shutter on your windows using the shutter feature in the window itself.

If so, simply building the object and adding it to your library may not be enough.

You'll need to create it as a 'symbol' first.  Luckily the newer version of Chief have made this much easier.

Once the object is made, Block it together, then simply right click the blocked object and in the dropdown select 'convert selected to symbol'.  It doesn't matter what you import it as (there use to be a specific shutter option), but once it's imported as a symbol you can access it in the window dialog box as a shutter.

Thank you. A friend reached out to me to show me how. Thank you 

1 hour ago, solver said:

 

Yes. Here is a dishwasher front used as a shutter, and a couple of chair shutters.

 

 

 

Think about how they would look/work when closed.

I think the DW is a good idea. That way you save space inside the house and bring them in when you need to load and empty them. 

I knew it wouldn't take much to get some good feedback here! Best forum on the net! 

7 minutes ago, DBCooper said:

Make sure your symbol is millwork.

 

Try using "reverse direction" on the louvers.  I suppose it depends on whether you are building real shutters vs. fake ones.  Real ones are supposed to shed water away from the window when they are closed.

 

Ah! Yes, that would be true

Perfect! Thank you, Sir!

I have tried to build a shutter out of a Solid, save it as a symbol. But the system does not recognize it. Is there a way to build shutters?

Also - just to note, the default shutter with louvers has the louvers up side down.

FYI - it was the Cabinets, Labels

That was it. X14 must have had that layer on. I did transfer all my details from X13 to X14 so it was all the same and from what I can tell it all worked perfectly other than this layer.

Thank you!

24 minutes ago, rgardner said:

So are you looking for a way to do it other than with the Defaults, or turning the layer off?  What is your end desired results?

Well, now that you said layer, I may find that it is as easy as turning a layer off. The symbols just started to show up when I started to use X14

Thank you, Sir! Updated. 

Hello,

How can I globally turn off the Show Schedule Callout? As I insert Library objects I can open the object and turn if off, but if my object is a block I need to explode the block and then select the object with the call out on. 

Thank you,

Steve

20 minutes ago, MarkMc said:

I draw the building, then delete everything but the terrain to draw the second. That way I can reference the original for placement and easier to get height off terrain. In the case of the example there's a breezeway that connects the two which need adjusting in both the original addition and the garage. I always start at 0,0 for the corner of the building so never have an issue with Z fighting. I just find it easier than a symbol if only doing a few structures, never had to do a full development then I likely would go to symbols.

I will remember this if I know I will be putting them together. I use reference drawings now and then for my remodel work, so I know what you are saying. Thank you

11 minutes ago, robdyck said:

Take a camera view and use the create symbol tool from there. Much simpler.

Yes! I like that a lot. Now I can get the foundation and the attic walls too. Perfect!

Thank you

Just now, robdyck said:

Keep in mind you can't 'move' a referenced plan. When using a referenced plan, the x/y coordinates remain in the same place. For a pool house or detached garage, I draw them in their own plan file and if I need to show them together in a model, I convert the smaller building to a symbol and place it in the larger plan file on its own layer. It's very simple and then I can keep both plans starting at 0,0 on the grid.

I never draw 2 buildings on the same plan file. Mostly because of the defualt / height settings, but also because I'm probably going to re-use the accessory building plan over and over.

I shouldn't say this out loud, but by doing this you can draw a 'new' detached garage plan to completion in about 5-10 minutes.

Very good! Thank you

Now that I know I can select a number of objects (walls, roofs, openings, slabs, etc.) and still make a symbol that would be my preferred option.

I like the idea of a referenced plan. I will try that.
Also, when I selected only the walls and the roof it allowed me to make a symbol so that works well also for a quick idea of putting structures together.

Thank you again!

Thank you! I will check it out

I have tried this and it does not copy

A few times I have had to put several projects into one file. Like I am drawing a pool house on one drawing and the residence on another drawing.

I would like to just make a block of sorts, or even a library object would work and paste it into the main drawing.

What I am doing now it just copy and paste, but the defaults in the one drawing including the main floor plane messes up everything in the structure I am pasting in.

Can I just group a structure with the roof and foundation?

Thank you,

Steve

On 8/25/2017 at 6:52 PM, Alaskan_Son said:

As many of you already know, energy heels do not automatically generate properly for some of the most standard truss configurations.  Here's something I would definitely consider a workaround but its a lot quicker than what I think most of us have been doing...

 

• Build all your trusses as usual setting the appropriate trusses to be Energy Heels...

• Group select at least all the energy heel trusses, change top and bottom chords to a very small dimension (1" should probably do it), check Force Truss Rebuild, and click Okay...

• With the trusses still selected, open them right back up, check Lock Truss Envelope, change your top and bottom chord back to what they should be, and click Okay...

 

Again, it would be nice if energy heels behaved properly on their own, but until they do, I think this is the best we can do.  If anyone knows of a more effective solution I'd love to know it.

Very nice! Thank you!!

Just ran out to see The Batman. One word, dark. 

(On my phone now)

trust me, I do honor your years of experience and skills and do take your word for it. I would just like to see an example of how you manipulate frost walls. When you say create a room I have in mind what I think you are on to. 
 

also, just to set the record, the house in the example and half of my larger homes have all the studs, floor joist and trusses added. yes I spend the time at times to figure out my trusses, girders and beams. When I say my heights are perfect, I mean they are perfect. My footings are exactly where I want them, my floor is exactly where I want it, my daylight wall, sill plates, joist and floor boards. 99.9% of my work is done in the dbx. My daylight walls are typically on target unless my basement height changes. I typically go into the dbx to set my pony heights, floors, etc. I mainly drag the frost wall down and adjust the daylight if I’m right there. Most of the time it is on only one or two of the elevations. And to be straight forward, I don’t know how to drop my frost wall from within the dbx. Can’t say I really tried after creating my layer section sets. So I believe I am using CA the way I think it was intended 99.9% of the time.
 

I will add that I wanted from the start to draw as CA intended and you and others have really jump started my learning curve. Thank you!
 

half the reviews on my website are in the last few years. 41 years designing homes and now with CA modeling makes for very satisfied and happy clients. Heck, I’m scheduling people into September now so I’m doing something well. I can’t begin to tell you at 60 years old how it feels to be at the top of my game again. Once again I want to thank you and others who were/are so willing to help out in the forum. I especially want to give a shout out to Steve Nestor @SNestor who scheduled a number of hours with me to teach me the ropes. Amazing fellow! I strongly recommend for newbies!!
 

thank you

Steve

44 minutes ago, Renerabbitt said:

I didn’t watch the full video the first time through because I was having trouble hearing it in my office at the time, apologies, but now after having watched it I would definitely encourage you to look to some additional approaches. As most of the power users here would agree, manually dragging exterior walls is not a very good practice. This software is platform based and you are not modifying the platform assembly when you manually drag a wall. In fact many of the problems we run into in this forum stem from users manually dragging walls. Pulling a cross section confirms this, your floor heights remain unchanged. Not to mention you would need to manually adjust your walls in other elevations to match. I personally can quickly build out a multiple level walkout just utilizing additional floors with rooms to designate foundation steps.

About your layer settings, you could have a cad detail with different lines and simply delete the lines that aren’t used(again this is with the intention of cleaning up custom layers, which would be my preference) no offense to Scott Hall but trying to work on one of his plans is as dizzying as it gets with so many custom layers. At times it may be necessary to handoff for my workflow anyway.

Is there a reason you are not specifying structure in your floor defaults at the start of a project? Any reason not to specify your floor defaults?

pulling a cross section and using a different active dimension default with the manual dimension tool can perform a platform check Lightning fast

 

There is a lot here, and I would say there is some bias as to dragging walls as my heights are perfect and untouched when I am done, again in seconds really. I understand where people can and do drag things and hope close is close and then fight for the rest of the time. I'm not that guy. I am a perfectionist by fault and for decades have figured out systems and processes to doing things. Not to say they are the best or that I will not change. But there is a lot of assumption in your statements based on many of the people in this forum which I completely understand as I know there are many people that will not figure out steps to assure accuracy. Yes, I do set up my heights in the Defaults before I start any plan, and in fact I also set up many of my materials which are also all set up to my defaults and into my Library. 

Your idea of using a room does intrigue me for my frost wall. If you care to share your idea in a video I would be happy to look into it. Thank you for diligently working the forum to help those of us who are still learning. I do mean that. But I have also drawn 120 homes my first 12 months of using the software, and many are not small or simple...  https://stevenyhofdesigns.com/contemporary-3d-models/

Have a great evening!

Steve

30 minutes ago, solver said:

 

Precise heights for what?

This will help explain what I am doing...

https://www.loom.com/share/5e075ef2a1a7424587fdc15e8c0a3af8