WendyatArtform

Some important principles: Chief defines height by room, and... As Joe said, Chief defines from the top down. So - if you have spaces on two floors, rooms with different height conditions that don't stack, Chief will be very confused about what to report back as heights! You have a hall and stair with two different conditions above. Solution - add an invisible wall separating your stairs from your hall.

Text defaults are per plan, not global for the program. So each new project gets them whatever template is used to create it. So look in your X6 Preferences to see what you were using for a default template. Then either: Use the same one in X7. Or... Update your X6 template to match.

Life will be a lot easier if you use Chief the way it was designed to be used. Put the first floor on the first floor (Level 1). If your garage is at grade, put it on the first floor. If you manually assign a floor height after you create it, it will not change that. You can use some QC tools to keep an eye on things like this that are "mission critical". We have a "working" layerset where we do most of our editing. In that layerset is a "working" layer that holds some QC tools. For splits and other times when we want to keep a sharp eye on floor height - one of those is a floor height backcheck - desired height in just text, actual via a text macro.

About Splits: Draw your main volumes first, without most interior walls. Include only the interior walls that separate levels. Get all your heights and floor construction stuff set. Then draw your interior walls. I'm pretty sure D Scott Hall has some good videos about splits. They are an "advanced" use of Chief, so spending a little time on research before diving too deeply into a plan with a deadline will actually get you to your finished house faster than just trial and error.

Coralie, In general: You may be making more work for yourself than is necessary. If you draw your first floor first, you can create a foundation easily - Floor Tools, Build Foundation (or Ctrl-F). That can also be used to update or correct one if you move walls on the first floor. If you've put things on that basement level that you don't want to lose, put them on your clipboard before updating (including any walls where you've changed the type). About that terrain: While it's the simplest, and my first choice, I run into instances when "Hide Terrain" leaves holes under window bays or enclosed rooms that are above natural terrain. So here's another option: On your basement level, select your outside room by clicking close to the walls. Use the tab key if you have trouble selecting it. Then - bottom of screen - Make Room Polyline If your terrain is on the basement level, just keep it selected. If it's not, put it on your clipboard and paste-hold onto the level with terrain. With that Polyline still selected - Convert Polyline -Terrain Feature In the Terrain Feature dbx - check "Make Hole". You now have a manually created hole in the ground. Do remember to manually update it with changes. We put ours on a layer we turn off in most views, so it can be easy to forget that.

I rarely do mono slabs. I almost never put my Basement on Level 1. I put it on Level 0. Even when we do slab on grade here, it's a footing to frost, which is anywhere from 4 to 6 ft below grade, and we want a thermal break. So a slab on grade here is a footing, a frost wall and the slab is inside, like a garage.

With a missing ceiling - my QC list includes: Rooms layer turned on for the layerset used by the camera view. Ceiling Surfaces layer turned on also "Ceiling" checked in the structure tab for the room Room above not accidently left "open to below" No rogue closed polylines assigned to be floor or ceiling openings.

I sure looks like it should extend the full wall. It's a pretty simple cabinet setup, nothing complicated. So seeing nothing to really fuss with, I'd be sending that puppy to tech support. Sometimes the problem is not actually in the chair!

9.5 was before they introduced the "bumping/pushing" setting - basically everything bumped or pushed whether you wanted it to or not. Having the bumping/pushing setting is very handy, but does take some adjustment. It would make sense to me that with Bump/Push on that a wall would bump into a stair. In my test with a new profile plan, it does, but just barely. It's a bump that pushes through pretty easily, where other things sometimes more firmly resist. My test on an old plan didn't bump at all, so there could be some difference with legacy plans. At any rate, as long as your grab handle is on the surface of your wall, snapping works reliably.

Walls don't aways bump into stairs. Stairs will bump into walls, but not always the reverse. But they will snap to them. Alt-Q to turn your "resize about" for walls to the surface. Then drag and snap that to the stair.

This is a great example of a problem tailor made for Tech Support! https://support.chiefarchitect.com/home This could be either user error or a problem with the actual fixture. Send it to them and you'll get a definitive answer. I use Tech Support especially if I suspect something is actually broken but I'm not sure.

Yep - what he said. One arm paper hangers have more spare time than I! But also, I think there's a trajectory. You start off as a newbie coming here for help. Then you get to where you can answer some questions yourself and that actually feels pretty good. Well balanced humanoids enjoy being helpful. Then at some point the next group who were less skilled have actually paid attention and learned from all those helpful answers - and start being able to answer questions themselves. They even get there before you do. It's kinda cool to see people who were utterly helpless once become experts. So they become the new experts and you make room. The whole post-count competition thing is, imnsho, a bit silly. And sometimes you even grow to where you have staff and you not only always have more demands on your time, but you're not necessarily doing every part of the software every day. So some of those newbie questions - where you could answer without even thinking once, you'd have to stop and see where that setting is! In my office it's called "I don't know ask Holly" (or Allison or Rachel or Cody or Heather or Allen... and soon people named Fred and Savy will know faster than I also on questions to do with cad or CD's!) So I think its kind of the natural progression of things that people come and go. When it feels right and you can be truly helpful - then do it. If it's a distraction from earning the money to pay your staff, let somebody else take a turn. My ADD had a chat with me and told me my Chief addiction was an "issue"!

That'll certainly do it for now. I haven't had to go hunting in eons - forgot about 3D Warehouse. Thanks!

Help! Does anybody have a good old fashioned wall mount mail box symbol? And/or if there is something in one of the libraries, what's it called? I have an HDC submittal for a seriously high profile project due today, and am dismayed to see we don't have anything even remotely close. Or - does one of you symbol gurus have time to make one as a paid service? I'd take anything even remotely not-screaming-new, but not fussy - like any of the red arrow ones in this image .