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About Crusader103

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  1. When I print the layout from Chief, I always select "Chief Architect Save AS PDF" from the dropdown, the paper set as landscape and Arch D selected for the size. This prints it to a PDF, the benefit that I can also email it just like this to a builder/client. When I physically print the plan, I simply open the PDF, select print as I would anything else, go to page setup, again select the paper size as Arch D and make sure the page sizing is set to "actual size."
  2. Several ways I've found to do it. On this home I'm finishing today the entire upper floor has a 5' wall height, the interior sloping to the typical 8' ceiling. I have an exception though, and that's the bedroom on the back of the home. I didn't want any slope in that room. I drew a new roof plane over just that corner, move in the Z plane 3' to make it 8' on the exterior, and joined the two roof planes together. If you are moving the whole roof plane on the back of the home as it appears you are, I'd use Javatom's recommendation and just Z that whole plane the 4 feet and rejoin the
  3. Both good options working out well. Thanks.
  4. How would you draw this front porch/roof detail? I'm not sure my method is the fastest/most effective. I'm simply doing a gable over the front porch with no overhang (which is kind of what the picture is showing) and then using a polyline solid for the curves and placing it over the wall. Thanks for the input.
  5. I would separate that porch into more than one porch with a room divider or invisible wall. The porch with the gable, I would set at 1 foot higher than the main roof, give it the gable, and unselect ceiling over this room. For the porch with the lower pitch, I would select its option as having no roof at all. I would then manually draw those roof planes. In 3D view I’d then clean anything up by joining roof planes.
  6. Here's what I did. May or may not be helpful. I had recently gotten married (long ago now) and my father-in-law was a well-respected custom home designer (he learned on the job from a licensed architect). My father-in-law didn't know how to use a computer in an area that was moving towards that nearly as a requirement (Seattle). I didn't know anything about designing but I knew how to turn on a computer. I literally went to Barnes & Noble, bought "AutoCAD for dummies," bought Autodesk LT, and sat in front of my computer reading the book and working the program. I started out taking
  7. Jesse, can you post a link to your actual plan, not just the DWG?
  8. I'm actually going to upgrade to X12. Just haven't done it yet.
  9. I've been blessed with plenty of work. Here's a few options I'd entertain. - I'd be willing to simply refer some of my clients to you if you happen to be local to Southeast Alabama. - I would perhaps let you handle the preliminary design work and I finish the plans once the client approves of the design. - I might let you finish the plans once I complete the preliminary design. - Perhaps I might just shut my phone off until I catch up. My typical job is a 2000-3000 square foot single story (sometimes bonus over garage), similar to the attached picture.
  10. Mike, It does help, and thank you. Building it, I would do the typical "frame" over as well. While not an engineer, I don't think the trusses/purlins are carrying that much of a load here. I think the wall and beam at the porch I already have are carrying most of that. Based upon the width of the barndo not being divisible by 12, I actually made a little tighter spacing for the trusses to sit on at the porch area anyway (8' instead of 12'). If you're willing, I would appreciate your base truss. Thanks.
  11. Building it isn't the problem, at least not for me. I know how I would do it. But honestly, I don't know how to create a detail for it for him to do, which is what he wants....essentially how to tie in an exposed wood truss porch to a metal girder roof. I could show him a picture but I'm trying to be a little more professional than that. I've found that CA isn't great at true barndominiums, or at least I'm not as proficient at it in CA. Exterior of building will be wood framed, typical 2x6 with 6x6 posts generally at 12'. That is because he'll be using steel girder type
  12. Project - Barndominium style home, metal trusses at 12' on center. Front and rear porch will be open with exposed wood beams. Problem - While I know how to do it (as in build it myself) the builder I am doing this for does not and is requesting a detail as to how to tie in the porch structure to the metal roof/truss system. His specific question is "I need you to show me how that front porch is designed. How is that weight going to be distributed to hold front porch tying back into home. We usually have 12’ center metal trusses for body of home. Therefore it’ll prob be
  13. 9' main floor, 8' upper floor. And honestly I didn't have a plan for the rear. I was just trying to figure out how to make the front look like the picture. Just getting that center gable to terminate into the roof of the garage on the left was my issue while getting that same gable roofline on the right to meet the roof coming from the main floor below. I'm not designing this house for anyone. I just want to know how to do it. I can do it on paper and in non-CA programs. I'm just trying to build my knowledge of X10 is all.
  14. Thanks for the info to all. If I am reading you all correctly the only way to do this is with the manual roofs. I agree, based upon the image I am trying to copy, that drainage is an issue. I'm not trying to design this house so much as I am trying to figure out how to do certain things with X10. I like CA so far but I'm also trying to learn how to make some things work in it. While I try to avoid issues in my plan, most of you probably understand that in the end the individual client or builder gets what they want (pay for) even if I point out to them some
  15. Hi All, I've got about 12 years experience designing homes but I'm new(er) to Chief Architect (Premier X10). I've found a lot of help on this forum (thanks) but running into an issue here. I need my roof to look like the attached image. So far, it's not close. Specifically, I need the roof on the left side of that gable above the door to die into the garage roof. I also need the right side of that same gable to meet the lower floor roof. Essentially, I'm looking to recreate the picture. I've attached my plan (very much in progress). I've got a lot left to do