builtright3

I'm with you Perry lets just do it the old way!

It seems to me that we are talking about 2 different types of purlins:

1) A beam for a mid-span support for rafter that have a post at both ends of the beam.

-OR-

2) A 2x no smaller than the rafter sized to span across the bottom side of the rafters with a 45 degree min. angle brace off an interior wall at 4 feet on center.

A35's and bird mouth cuts are a pain in the a$$!

If I was forced to use a beam vertically I would rather run my worm-drive down the top side of the beam and cut an angle so the rafters would sit solid and then toe nail the rafters to the beam. 

I know hardware is necessary in certain situations but it in my worthless opinion (because im not an engineer) we are so over building single story room additions. Engineer are having me undermine existing foundations just for an HD2, making me drill thru 3' of stem wall and foundation and running all thread with a stinking nut and washer on the bottom side that gets poured in concrete. Give me a break! I guess my house which has no structural damage from the early 50's should have fallen down be now. Especially with all the earthquakes we have had. Yea lets just add another 4x beam to the roof with some A35's and while were at it lets throw in some more post and foundations.

I'm sorry! I guess I had to get that off my chest.      

I use an "ECHO" pen that records everything including any voices and talking that goes on while measuring. Everything you draw goes to your computer along with the voice recording. All you need to do is point your curser to any part of your drawing and the exact voice comments of exactly that timeline will play for you. I also record every minute of the consult, you'll be surprised how many times that saved my a**, when someone says "They didn't say that". They are at Livescribe.com

Perry,

Where can I get this ECHO pen? Are there any stores that have it in stock or do I have to order it on line?

Perry,

As a Framer I have to ask this question:

How do you put a diagonal brace under a vertical beam?

Yep, I think it is all about how your contract is written up. But also I don't think code enforcement would allow anyone to use the same plan for each house unless it is changed to the property specific. Which means you must have the signature and wet stamp for each property and/or each structure on the same property. A builder can't legally keep resubmitting the same plan for different structures unless somebody supplies a wet stamp. Again the guy that stamps the drawing needs to get paid for every structure that is built for he or she is responsible if something fails because of miscalculations.

I could be wrong but I believe the plans have to be approved by the city for each property individually. That means that you would have to sign and stamp the plans for each individual address that it goes to. If it is basically the same layout and they are using several then you should get paid for each plan you sign off on. You and/or the engineer. If they are repeats just figure a reduced amount if you want but remember that you are still liable for the structure so that is worth a good amount. If that structure fails they will be knocking down your door. I don't think I would give them too good of a deal.

I have never been in this situation before. Interested to here other comments.

Joe - I have no interest in this particular post. It just drives me crazy when people come here for help and never

leave any contact information and often do not respond to PM or check back. I have experienced this several times.

Why do they even bother?? 

 

I think I have responded to every  PM I have received. I am a brand new user, and have never used an Online Forum.   I think I'm doing pretty good so far!   

Your fine don't get discouraged because of a negative comment. Sometime it gets a little frustrating for the people that are trying to help. Their are a lot of good people here that put a lot of time into helping others. 

Blessings

The lowest dollar amount out here in CA for a designer is 50 per hour (that I know of) but I think most figure around 75. Licensed architects are 125 plus I think.

I know I'm cheap but I'm not only the designer I'm the builder so its worth it for me to do my own plans at a bargain so I have better control over when they get done and its a good selling point to take a job from plans all the way to finish.

It kind of funny when someone post a question and then you never hear from them again after several replies are going back and forth.

I just use the roof beam tool, it places them right up against the bottom of the rafters.

Perry,

Once you put the beam in can you rotate it in the section to get what Bill is doing? Not that you need to do that but was curious if you ever tried it. You would the one that showed me how to edit in section views.

Hi Perry,

This is a purlin shown in the Oregon Residential Specialty code.  They can be vertical as well; but then I would likely call it a roof beam.

Bill,

I do it the same as you have it here in your section. But I don't try to get it in the framing because we don't need to see the purlins in 3D so its just as easy to draw the purlins with bracing into the section.

Was this the first time you tried the 3D on this computer or has it worked before? The reason for me asking is I have two video cards on my computer and if its not set to the right one I have the same problem.

I have a great paint brush holder! Its the guy down the street standing on the corner. But it can be pretty exhausting watching him during half time!   :lol:  

If you draw a wall (interior, exterior, foundation etc.) and then open the Wall Specification dbx and check "Invisible" on the General Tab that wall will display as dashed lines in plan (no layers, no color). Moreover, that wall will be placed on the "Walls, Invisible" layer (see attached). The only time it would not be placed on the "Wall, Invisible" layer would be in the situation that Robert pointed out.

 

If you are not getting those results, something is amiss. Do you want to post this plan?

I don't want to post the plan because someone might steel all my great ideas and sell them and then I might loose $$$ because of it! Ha Ha      Like I'm Joe the Great or something. Just kidding.

You solved my problem! Thank you!

The reason the wall would not change to invisible is because I set my interior and exterior walls on there own layers so it wasn't the normal wall layer. Seeing how I only change interior wall to indivisible at times I will put my interior walls on the normal wall layer.

I'm not pressed to find these answers right now. I appreciate the feed back. I thought this might be a fairly simple answer but apparently not. I will search the forum and the internet later this week and see what I can find.

Thanks guys  

This vids for you Joey......

 

http://youtu.be/_KvReHNcm5I

I really appreciate the video.

Most of my jobs are on fairly level ground and the grade in the foundation area is typically about 12" (give or take) lower that the outside grade so your method wont work for me. However I'm now wondering if the grade inside the foundation area can be different than the rest of the grade around the house. If not maybe CA can add that as we have spoken in earlier post.

 

The CA X7 Reference Manual explains things in detail. For instance:

 

A wall placed on a non-default layer and then specified as Invisible, however, will not move to the “Walls, Invisible” layer.

 

This nugget may explain why a wall isn't changing to the Walls, Invisible layer when you check the tick-box. Also:

 

If a wall is specified as No Locate in the Wall Specification dialog, it will be ignored by Auto Exterior Dimensions  in floor plan view, as will any doors or windows placed in it.

 

Ok, so I get no locate. But why is there a layer with a color and a line for it?

I put a number one line weight on a cade line with another one next to it in grey (one line grey and one line black) and it printed out one in grey and one in black. Then I unchecked "print in color" and they both printed in black. So its all working with me and im running X7

This sound like a dumb blonde but here my question;

If I draw a wall and then check the invisible box in the dbx it used to change to an invisible wall with a dashed line. With X7 it doesn't do that anymore. The layer doesn't even change. Does anyone know why they even have the invisible check box anymore or am I doing something wrong? I just don't get the whole invisible wall thing anymore and I don't understand the "no locate" (what it is) and why it has a layer. What does it locate and how can you see it? Where is it and what is it and how can you locate it if you don't know what your looking for? Cant find any information that explains it.    :wacko:    

When I have an invisible wall and I want to put a regular wall or half wall through it I notice it brakes the wall up or stops and starts each side of the invisible wall. Do I have any options with that? Is there an ignore wall easy button or pass thru wall check box or something?

Any wood (post or sill plate) has to be at least 8" above grade by code requirements. There are other rule's to follows if there is a concrete slab around it and you have good drainage. Does that answer your question?

You can also break any floor joists anywhere you want to by just drawing a bearing line anywhere on the plan.

Chief has come a long way with framing. The tuff part is getting all the setting right in the dbx's.

Joey,

 

I'm going to do a video using your technique and post it to my YouTube channel on the public page, that way I'll have something to refer to. Thanks for the technique Joey.

Thank you! I will take that as a compliment. Soooo much to learn

Just send me the royalty check!

What's 50% of "0"?

Yes joey - Very Nice! If I can only remember this when it's time to create the next crawl space.

That's the problem. I have a hard time remembering how I do things.   

Here is my video to show you guys my method. Thanks to our team effort.

http://screencast.com/t/5DEwiGV7p3j1

Perry & Joey,

 

The grade line is controlled by the Terrain Specification, not the floor heights - which makes sense to me.

You can set the grade line to whatever you want using the terrain tools.

The Elevation Region is the one to use if you want a level building pad at a set height.

I agree and is what I do.

The terrain is set for elevation around the outside of the building. What I am talking about is what's on the inside of the foundation walls or room. I think you are miss understanding what I am trying to do here. The grade within the foundation room is what I am trying to control independent of the terrain.

Perry, do you agree?