builtright3

I was just saying that the location of the soffit is controlled by the sub-fascia

Yes but I don't understand what you mean by that. I was just trying to figure that out now.

Here is the final out come of my free standing patio cover. I went with different colors of materials just so we can see clearly the different types of materials. I only hope I can remember how I did this!

I just unchecked soffits in the roof plan specification dbx

Why would you need a plan? You should give yourself more credit than that!

You right about the soffit.

Thank You Mick!

I cant figure out the materials under this eave. What is it and how do I get rid of it?

If you make it Exterior Fixture it can be resized in all directions independently.

I tried this and I couldn't get it to resize the way you say. Not sure what I might be doing wrong?

Tommy is going to help me with this on line.

Thank guys, I don't what to waste your time so I thought I better let you know. I'm also pressed for time to get this done.

To put them in the library you just need to select and add to the library. I was just trying to get something that would be resizable about the proper axis and that is a different animal.

It does not give me the option to put it in the library when I select it. Not sure what I did.

I think I need to start from scratch with building this knee brace. I opened a new plan to draw it in but I'm not having much luck. Can someone point me in the right direction? As you can see in the attachment I built the knee braces but am having a hard time putting them in the library for re use.

If you see a user posting here with a website, once in awhile you'll find someone who posts one or more of their sample plans on their websites.  One of the better sample plans by a CA user you may find is posted on the CA website here:

 

http://cloud.chiefarchitect.com/1/pdf/plan-sets/aibd-working-drawing-joey-martin.pdf

These are some nice clean plans!

I prefer to have my own style plans but it helps to get other peoples ideas and build off of them a little bit. I like to take an idea and put my own twist on it. We all have to start from some where.

In the attached picture I made the knee braces out of a poly line solid. All the post and beams are railing walls.

My question is how can I put the knee braces in the library for future use. The patio cover is free standing and I will also need to put the knee braces at every post. I'm sure there as to be a better way to duplicate them but as a Psolid they are not very editable.

I will take any ideas that anyone might have on my approach to build this free standing cover.

I am designing  a porch around the house. How can I make the roof go over top the columns? 

 

I use railing walls.

Like I said

 

 

 

So all housing jobs have a minimum pricing of $1000.00

Although I do some "Drafting" jobs that do not require engineering for as little as $400 for a sheet or two.

Like a Garbage area Gate I did. But Remodels & houses never get below $1000 as they are too much work.

That make sense. I didn't read your post correctly. As Perry said that prices are a lot different out here. I'm not fishing for what I should be charging just interested in the comparison in your area to California. But your system of charging is the same as mine but the only difference is it would be about double your cost out here in California. Some could even be more. I think im to cheap sometimes.

Thank you Alan

Good info, thaks

 

I'm late to this thread but here in Florida I charge $1.00 per square foot under roof per floor as a ball park for most houses.

As a designer I have a Structural Engineer certify the structural elements of the design & they charge me $250 to $400 depending on size & complexity of the house.

 

Under 1200 sq feet, remodels & over 4000 sq ft require pricing per job.

If the house has special requirements the ball park pricing does not work.

Allan,

Now I'm a little curios. So if you did a 600 sq. ft. room addition you would charge $600.00 for the architectural drawings and 250 or 400 for structural engineering. How much time would you put into measuring the job and preparing the plans and the running around time? After your answer I will follow up with what I would get out here in California for the same thing.

Sorry if I ranted guy's. I tend to go off half cocked sometimes.

Scott, I should start a new thread for the Mammoth Mountain UGM in January. Snow fall permitting.

Nice!

If we go next year we can walk on the bottom of the lake and collect fossils.

Ok, next year. I will begin to make arrangements to prepare. Hopefully we will get more rain and a lot of snow this next winter. The lake is about 11 1/2 feet low right now.

Joey,  you set it up when you are ready.  maybe for a few nights one weekend.  Absolutely we can chip in $$ for the essentials.  This could really be fun.  When I was up in Michigan in May,  and we hooked up with Jim Lawes,  he took us out on his boat on Torch Lake,  it was a real treat.

 

That sounds great Joey,  I am up for it.  

I will talk to my better half and see what she thinks. Do you think this summer would be good or next summer because the Idaho meeting is in September? If this year I was thinking August. But this year could be too busy and too short notice. Not sure at this point.

Thant's actually a good Idea! I could host a user group meeting there. 3 and 1/2 bathrooms with lots of beds. My wife could do the cookin. Everyone would have to pitch in a little with $$$ for the food and utilities. We could do it in the summer and have a nighttime lake cruse in the tri-tune boat and go have a nice dinner in town. 

WAIT A MINUTE !!!!!!!!..........  ski party at Joey's place next winter.......  it's not Utah,  but it is close to home.

 

Hey Joey,  are you on the slopes?

Not anymore on the slopes. I like to just cruse around the lake on my boat and relax and sometimes so a little fishing. In the winter I like to drive out to the Holcomb Valley (where they shot parts of "Bananza") and do a little four wheelin in my old 1988 beat-up, rust bucket 4x4 Chevy Suburban (have you ever heard that model?).

this is common in other parts of the world too , like in Australia and New Zealand , Europe etc.... 

 

The Purlin is there to attach the Roof Cladding , not as a structural support.

 

@Yusef   please post your test plan thanks , I'd like to see your method.

I need to remember that some of us in the forum are pretty spread out across the world. I's pretty cool when I think about that.

Nice to meet you Yusef!!

Joey:

 

it would be the builder that does the signing/stamping unless there is an architect or engineer involved in the project

 

designer/drafters are not allowed to sign/submit

 

the homeowner can sign/submit but may need architect/engineer also

 

all depends on the jurisdiction

 

Lew

In California anyone can draw a residential plan and submit it as long as it qualifies under the conventional framing requirements. I built my own new 2500 sq. ft. cabin in Big Bear California and pulled an owner builder permit, drew the plan myself and didn't need a licensed architect or engineer. The only thing that may have made a difference is that it was 400 sq. ft. and I left only one wall and half of the existing foundation. Not sure if you can use conventional framing for a 100% new home. I don't know why if would matter?

I have had some engineers tell me that you can over engineer. If the structure is to stiff and has no movement that is not good either. I think that was why the steel framed housing wasn't working especially in California because they were to stiff and could not absorb the shock to deaden the force that hit the structure. I'm might be talking out my a$$ right now so don't quote me on this. I have no bases of proof here and I don't even know if im using the correct language. I'm just a dumb biker you know from California with a huge Love for the Lord.

Respectfully Speaking

I wouldn't blame the engineers for this. They are just following the Code relative to fairly recent provisions for concrete.

Some engineers I do blame to be perfectly honest.

I had the same engineer for over 15 years and unfortunately he died a couple of years ago and his work was fair and he had over 40 years experience and he used to be a plan checker for a while. But since then I have done around 20 jobs or so that I needed structural engineering and most of my jobs are simple single story and a few 2 story. Some of these engineers follow the standard conventional framing and calc out only what they need to that doesn't fit under the conventional framing category (this is the way I prefer it done). The engineers that calc out the whole job are going crazy with hardware and foundations that are unnecessary according to conventional framing. I actually had two young engineers tell me that they are responsible that the structure doesn't fail so they over build to protect themselves and avoid law suits. I think the newer younger guys just don't feel comfortable with their own work. I cant say I blame them with the way so many people are sue happy these days. After going thru several engineers I finally found one that is more reasonable but again he is the oldest and most experienced engineer out of all that I tried. And his prices are lower on top of it. Go figure!

This is common way we construct hones in our area, I use roofs as purlins, it takes no time.

Do they make you do any hardware to attach any of those boards or are they just nailed?

You wouldn't need to do that if you just used larger rafters for the span. A lot less work that way. Typical A-frame above 3:12 pitch