builtright3

I don't like the cabinet method. But you can use walls so that the materials list accounts for the stone and lumber. Just be sure to check the no room definition checkbox. 

So like a half wall drawn around the column with a cap on it? So the top rail is your cap?

From David at Chief Tutor:

 

http://www.chieftutor.com/molding/column.html

I wish I had customers that did craftsman style homes. I really like them myself.

Video is great! Thank You

I always make my own for total control over the proportions of materials. Slab base, slab cap.

I think this is my preferred method so far.

I really don't think there is an easier way. But I thought for sure that Joe would say use a cabinet because you easily use the countertop for the cap and change the edge profiles.

There are some columns in the library with stone on the bottoms ... Craftsman style.  You could also just change the column size to bigger (square columns) and then change the material to stone.  Many other options to use beyond this.

If I change the column bigger and change the materials than I have no control over just doing the bottom 3 feet. Correct?

Thanks, I didn't know there were stone columns in the libuary

Thanks , yep they look good , wish things were that busy here.....

 

don't forget to check out the Knowledgebase when doing something new , never know what you might find..........

http://www.chiefarchitect.com/support/article/KB-00598/

 

I think this was the method you used but this KB isn't online anymore , not sure you need it but I had made a PDF of it so

Pole Barn Structure.pdf

That's exactly how I did it and I didn't even look at the instructions!!!

But how were the knee braces created?

I would like to put stack stone around some patio columns. I thought I might just use the slab tool and build them with a cap and pace it in the column somehow but I would like to get a little feed back from others first. Any suggestions on how you guys would do it? Remember that these columns are built from a railing wall.

Perry was answering my Question Joey on how you got the soffit up that high , not your reply on how you fixed it , looking at you section view I now see you must have subfascia's off or set to say 1/16th" or something , so P. answer makes sense.

 

Thanks P.

 

M

Yes here are my settings and of course I don't mind sharing anything. This system of building patio covers is working well. After I figured it out I did three other different sized patio's for other jobs. One is more like a gazebo that is way in the back yard by the pool, two are attached and the one that you have already seen. Learning how to manipulate all the framing materials to work how I wanted and have it all frame automatic was the hardest to figure out but works well once you get it down.  

Joey, your typical deck bracing is 2 feet below the bottom of the joists or girder at a 45-degree angle to the beam and joists. You don't really need to resize the braces for the deck and reuse the same one for all deck applications.

Sorry Greg but I don't understand your comment. This is a patio cover with knee braces that I'm working on.

I was just saying that the location of the soffit is controlled by the sub-fascia

Yes but I don't understand what you mean by that. I was just trying to figure that out now.

Here is the final out come of my free standing patio cover. I went with different colors of materials just so we can see clearly the different types of materials. I only hope I can remember how I did this!

I just unchecked soffits in the roof plan specification dbx

Why would you need a plan? You should give yourself more credit than that!

You right about the soffit.

Thank You Mick!

I cant figure out the materials under this eave. What is it and how do I get rid of it?

If you make it Exterior Fixture it can be resized in all directions independently.

I tried this and I couldn't get it to resize the way you say. Not sure what I might be doing wrong?

Tommy is going to help me with this on line.

Thank guys, I don't what to waste your time so I thought I better let you know. I'm also pressed for time to get this done.

To put them in the library you just need to select and add to the library. I was just trying to get something that would be resizable about the proper axis and that is a different animal.

It does not give me the option to put it in the library when I select it. Not sure what I did.

I think I need to start from scratch with building this knee brace. I opened a new plan to draw it in but I'm not having much luck. Can someone point me in the right direction? As you can see in the attachment I built the knee braces but am having a hard time putting them in the library for re use.

If you see a user posting here with a website, once in awhile you'll find someone who posts one or more of their sample plans on their websites.  One of the better sample plans by a CA user you may find is posted on the CA website here:

 

http://cloud.chiefarchitect.com/1/pdf/plan-sets/aibd-working-drawing-joey-martin.pdf

These are some nice clean plans!

I prefer to have my own style plans but it helps to get other peoples ideas and build off of them a little bit. I like to take an idea and put my own twist on it. We all have to start from some where.

In the attached picture I made the knee braces out of a poly line solid. All the post and beams are railing walls.

My question is how can I put the knee braces in the library for future use. The patio cover is free standing and I will also need to put the knee braces at every post. I'm sure there as to be a better way to duplicate them but as a Psolid they are not very editable.

I will take any ideas that anyone might have on my approach to build this free standing cover.

I am designing  a porch around the house. How can I make the roof go over top the columns? 

 

I use railing walls.

Like I said

 

 

 

So all housing jobs have a minimum pricing of $1000.00

Although I do some "Drafting" jobs that do not require engineering for as little as $400 for a sheet or two.

Like a Garbage area Gate I did. But Remodels & houses never get below $1000 as they are too much work.

That make sense. I didn't read your post correctly. As Perry said that prices are a lot different out here. I'm not fishing for what I should be charging just interested in the comparison in your area to California. But your system of charging is the same as mine but the only difference is it would be about double your cost out here in California. Some could even be more. I think im to cheap sometimes.

Thank you Alan

Good info, thaks

 

I'm late to this thread but here in Florida I charge $1.00 per square foot under roof per floor as a ball park for most houses.

As a designer I have a Structural Engineer certify the structural elements of the design & they charge me $250 to $400 depending on size & complexity of the house.

 

Under 1200 sq feet, remodels & over 4000 sq ft require pricing per job.

If the house has special requirements the ball park pricing does not work.

Allan,

Now I'm a little curios. So if you did a 600 sq. ft. room addition you would charge $600.00 for the architectural drawings and 250 or 400 for structural engineering. How much time would you put into measuring the job and preparing the plans and the running around time? After your answer I will follow up with what I would get out here in California for the same thing.

Sorry if I ranted guy's. I tend to go off half cocked sometimes.

Scott, I should start a new thread for the Mammoth Mountain UGM in January. Snow fall permitting.

Nice!

If we go next year we can walk on the bottom of the lake and collect fossils.

Ok, next year. I will begin to make arrangements to prepare. Hopefully we will get more rain and a lot of snow this next winter. The lake is about 11 1/2 feet low right now.