ACADuser

Yea, one plan file has other issues too, like managing TABLES for door, windows & others. One PLAN file is doable but the reversed plan would mean 2 complete interiors. When I say complete interiors, I mean with interior walls but not furniture & decorating items.

Thanks for the valuable opinion's. These are very small houses, one story with a one car garage & no back porch. As I said there are 3 elevations now. There may be a need for a reversed plan as well. I think I could manage 3 houses of this size in a plan and maybe 6 would not be too hard on performance. The elevation changes are varied porch column types & Gable vs a Hip roof and minor embellishment's. I prefer one base model so I only deal with one electrical, plumbing & framing plan. Well maybe 2 framing plans. With a single (primary) plan I could make changes to doors, interior walls, cabinets & switches without the "paste in place" into other plans. There always seems to be clean up. With 6 plans it is tedious work but manageable. I was thinking of 3 or 4 houses in one plan file & only one of them would be fully flushed out inside. Using that one as the floor plan, foundation, plumbing & electrical layouts. The reverse plan may require another complete house. The exterior elevations could be shell houses with no interior. As for the Layout file, I have made 6 cover sheets in a "Cover sheet Layout File" and another layout for the regular plan sheets. This worked OK on my 12 unit Townhouse project. But I would like the address to change on the shared layout sheets. Thanks again for the ideas.

Hoping to avoid multiple PLAN files.

I have to produce 6 plans with addresses on all sheets. There are 3 elevation variations that change the front & side elevation views. I was hoping to have one PLAN file & maybe 6 LAYOUT files. The idea is to one base plan that all modifications would happen & update all houses. Wish there was a way to maintain only one LAYOUT file also. Need to address the 3 elevations in the plan file. Anyone come up with a good strategy for this situation?

You probably figured out that there is a command to swap floors. Also, Walls of different types are aligned by Chief via the align with below or align with above based on the outer surface of the "Main Layer": of the wall. NOT the Outer surface of the Exterior surface. This is regardless of the outer covering or the wall thickness. So if you have stucco as an outer layer it must be the same thickness for both wall types.

And what climate are you in?

Actually, they miter cut the 3/4" plywood, glue & nail the mitered seams. They are supposed to use a Peel & Stick Tape at the top to separate the Block from the wood.

Mark, Looking at your first file, how did you tilt that panel? I put a stretch plan in my columns which looks impossible on a cabinet assembly? Column Symbol.plan

Mark. very nice work. Thanks for sharing. Great detail on the moldings vs what you can do with solids in a given time. Thanks Mick, I see now that cabinets are much faster than solids.

Thanks for the examples I have a look this afternoon.

I'm in the process of creating some varied Craftsman Columns from symbols & wanted to be able to turn the lower base molding on/off. I could create two column symbols but thought I also could use one column with a layer "Column Base Molding" & turn that on-off. The base molding is a p-solid but I think I may need to create the symbol & then block the base separately. Any thoughts?

Or you may ask here as the users are very friendly & may have what you are looking for.

No snow in St Pete Beach, FL Finding the method of dragging the truss envelope in a section view better than truss profile view. Off to dinner. Thanks

I guess I'm trying to figure out how to deal with this missing section & having the trusses build automatically like I modified them.

I do like to see the slope, Joe. The trusses had to be modified in section view to the proper shape & then in plan view I do a replicate to fill the required number of trusses.

How can you generate a 16" or 24" low slope roof? The trusses do not build properly. The roof is not thick enough, I'll be out of touch for several hours. Later

Found this https://www.cedengineering.com/userfiles/Design of Com-Ind Guardrail Sys for Fall Protection….pdf The math is a bit over my head though. But if the top rail is stiff that would reduce the tension on the connections. I'm referring to 200# applied to the top rail outward which will flex the top rail & put tension on the connections. The tables for the connectors show the shear capacities but the tension loads will need to be calculated. One way around the tension problem is to put a slip connection in the design.

In our area Simpson is popular in residential, Hilti in commercial. Engineers prefer Hilti from what I see. The Simpson products are available at Home Depot. https://www.strongtie.com/anchoringsystemsforconcreteandmasonry/landing https://www.strongtie.com/strongdrive_exteriorwoodscrews/sd_screw/p/strong-drive-sd-connector-screw

Simpson has some software that may be of some value to you: https://www2.strongtie.com/software/anchordesigner-asd.html Also the tension on the connections can be quite high. https://www.ropelab.com.au/two-point-anchor-calculator/

Well, shear should be no problem for 2ea 1/2" bolts ea end. I assume you have a flat plate bolted to the adjoining materials. The issue is calculating pullout. Pull the middle of a cable attached at its ends & stress gets a bit high. Still epoxy set bolts have a high pull out in filled masonry. Wood is another matter. May need a bolt & washer on that end. Looking at the FDOT 862 railings the railing is attached at the bottom into concrete which is a greater stress. I'll look tomorrow to see if I have anything you could use.

VERY OLD. Back when people were shorter & 30" vanities were being used. About time the database was updated I think. Thanks

So is 72" deemed the standard for wall mount interior fixture heights? That seems too low to me.

My wall mount fixtures are set to 72" & some 68". I changed the default setting (see picture) to 80" but doe not seem to change the light added from the library. Most are set to 72" or less for interior & exterior wall mounted lights. How can I change all (default to) 80"?

FYI, Walls of different types are aligned by Chief via the align with below or align with above based on the outer surface of the "Main Layer": of the wall. NOT the Outer surface of the Exterior surface. This is regardless of the outer covering or the wall thickness. So if you have stucco as an outer layer it must be the same thickness for both wall types.

I know this is an old thread but thought this article was interesting & the "post a sign" solution was surprising to me. http://www.mcgarryandmadsen.com/Blog/Entries/2015/2/12_What_is_the_maximum_length_for_a_clothes_dryer_vent.html