rlackore

30 minutes ago, parkwest said:

Double sill plates help if the foundation is out of level... you can shim between plates to make it right.

I'd consider that less than ideal. If you're forced to shim, you need to shim between the concrete and the first plate so the loads are transferred as evenly as possible. shimming between the plates may level the top of the wall, but you're not taking care of the root problem, which is the gap between the concrete and the plate.

36 minutes ago, dshall said:

An advantage to building the slab on level 0  and not on level 1  (not using floor supplied by floor below) .....  is you can auto put a sill plate on the foundation stem wall and still get a sill plate for the wall.  I usually do not build it this way,  but it is an option if you want the additional sill plate.

 

 

 

What's the construction advantage to double-plating this condition? I'm not arguing, I'm curious.

9 minutes ago, GeneDavis said:

It's gonna take some manual work to get that dropped slope bottom slab edge, right?

Gene, that's the gravel base, not the slab.

1 minute ago, DRAWZILLA said:

of course you still need a cad detail for rebar and exact condition, Chief doesn't do that.

You know, that's a good point. We can specify a lot of the rebar conditions in the Foundation Defaults>Options dbx. It wouldn't take much more for Chief to expand that tab of the dbx a bit, then include the rebar in the Auto Detail tool.

1 minute ago, dshall said:

I think the best method is to ZERO OUT floor assembly at LEVEL 1 and then put the SLAB ON LEVEL 0.

Doesn't Room Supplies Floor for the Room Above accomplish this? It allows independent control of the slab elevation using the Level 0 structure dbx, control of the stem wall height in the Level 0 structure dbx, and the width of footings in the wall dbx.

Here's another method:

1. Replace the interior grade beams with Slabs, and put them on the Footings layer:

2. Select the Level 0 room and set the Stem Wall (I) value to 16". (You already have the other two critical settings correct: Floor>Room Supplies Floor for the Room Above, and Floor Structure (L) set to 4"):

3. Select all four Foundation Walls and set the Foundation>Footing values to 16"x20". Also uncheck Center Footing on Main Layer so you can set the Footing Offset to -1":

These few setting should give you what you're looking for: 1703plan-6.plan

Can't say - I live in Wisconsin. If CIP is mostly used in your area, and that's what contractors are used to doing, then there's a good chance it will be reasonably cost effective based on contractor familiarity and experience. But, it depends so much on the project: square footage, fire-resistive assembly locations and strategy, etc. I'm just saying that on most projects, it's been my experience that it's more cost-effective to design for the structure; this is especially true if you'll be customizing the interior build-outs on a per-customer basis (like a lot of higher-end apartments, penthouses, etc.), and the marketing folks can charge accordingly.

40 minutes ago, NotAPro said:

@rlackore,

thanks for the reply.

The flooring system will be poured concrete on each level.

 

Pan deck? Structural slab? Precast with topping?

A concrete deck reinforces my belief that you need to figure out the wall/floor system condition, and optimize for the design to favor the simplicity of the structural system, before worrying about the interior build-out.

You're going to pay the mason and steel crew a heck of a lot more than the carpenter and drywall crew. So much depends on the floor system you've chose to use, and the bearing conditions/requirements. 54" wide gypsum panels are designed to make things easy for standard wood-framed construction - which your project isn't. Besides, almost any gypsum panel product can be ordered in the length you need (though minimum orders are required). I would concentrate on getting the wall designed for structure and economy, then see where the floor-to-floor heights land, and then work on value-engineering everything within the building shell. 

I don't believe so. Just like Chief, CAD programs allow the user to define an object's color either "by layer" or "by object". When importing a CAD drawing, any objects that have a color defined "by layer" will inherit the color assigned to the Chief layer they are imported into; any objects that have a color defined "by object" will retain that color definition, regardless of the Chief layer they are imported into. Chief's import process doesn't have the flexibility to redefine object color definitions "on the fly."

The attached picture is super tiny.

4 minutes ago, taylorb said:

 

 

 

There are no GPUs currently on the market running 16GB VRAM, "8GB - 16GB RAM" would be referring to system memory.  At this time the NVidia GeForce 10-series is the top of the line card, for laptops specifically its the GTX 1080, running 8GB GDDR5.

Taylor B.

Chief Architect Technical Support

Yep, but if budget isn't a problem you can get a rig with dual 1080's and SLI:

...just sayin'

My copy of the NECA national standard is old (2006) - it was updated in 2013, but the 2006 version addresses photocell controls only in section 5.0 Motorized and HVAC Equipment - Controls:

If the photocell is independent of the fixture (maybe it's controlling multiple fixtures), then the NECA standard symbol may be appropriate, but realistically it makes more sense to annotate the fixture symbol with 'PC', and define what 'PC' means within your own electrical symbol schedule:

Or, if you're publishing a fixture schedule (or specification), identify the fixture on the plan, then specify within the fixture description that it is to be controlled by a photosensor:

1 hour ago, lbuttery said:

with a dedicated video card you can also upgrade in the future if needed ( usually)

 

get at least 8 GB ram on video card - preferably 16 GB or more

 

Lew

He's looking at a laptop - much more difficult to swap or upgrade GPUs. Any laptop with a 16GB GPU is going to be more than twice the OP's presumed budget.

Maybe I misunderstood - by the title of the post I assumed you are trying to rotate a Section/elevation camera. If not, then Solver's advice should work. Sorry if I confused the issue.

Section/elevation cameras cannot be rotated.

I've noticed that if you work with multiple windows on multiple monitors, Chief often gets "confused" about what layerset/annoset is active for whichever window/tab has focus. This results in the behavior you've described with the dbx popping up. This behavior has been mentioned before on this forum (or maybe in the Suggestion forum), so it's a known issue - though I don't think anyone has resolved whether it's truly a Chief problem (bug, etc.) or a quirk of users jumping back and forth between windows/tabs.

That I7-7500U/HD 620 combo is getting old, and it doesn't have any dedicated memory or solid state cache, though the Envy does have plenty of main RAM for it to scavenge. Chief would run, but if you do a lot of work in 3D views I would expect the performance to be below average. It's also got a slow HDD. I'd spend my $1400 on a gaming laptop with dedicated memory and an SDD, or at least a 7200RPM HDD - there are plenty of open box and refurbished machines available from NewEgg, Tiger, Amazon, etc. If you're an HP fan, you can buy a new gaming Omen laptop (from HP) with an I7-7700HQ with 6MB cache, nVidia 1050Ti with 4GB GDDR5, 16GB DDR4, and a 1TB 7200 HDD with a 512GB PCIe SDD - altogether a much better option for $1460, brand new.

16 hours ago, MarkMc said:

Might be filed of view- default is 55, is it something else?

I think Mark has it right regarding everything looking "stretched out". Here's a an interior with the Field of View set to the default 55:

...and the same camera with the FOV set to 100:

Regarding your other issues, do as Kbird suggested and post the plan.

Yes. First, create a new layer to hold your Auto Interior Dimensions:

Then assign this as the default layer under Defaults>Dimension>Auto Interior Dimensions>Layer:

Now all your new Auto Interior Dimensions will go to the new layer, which you can turn on/off as you please.

You can do this with winders and an invisible wall. Pull both stairs back, insert a 45-degree invisible wall defined with a single very thin main layer (must be room def), define both stair sections as winders, then drag them back toward the wall and mess with the Tread Contraction value until they "join".

2017-002_E17-0082-9875 W Morrison Rd_AS-Built with mitered stair.plan

On 5/18/2017 at 6:17 PM, Stephen said:

Good evening,

 

I am attempting to miter the stairs, and have the "Allow Wrap" box checked.  However, the stairs do not miter, as I am hoping they would.

I believe Allow Wrap only works for an outside corner, not an inside corner.

Looks like the wallpaper from my apartment in '78.

Here's a lever set with occupancy trim.

Levers with Occupancy Trim.calibz

Occupancy Lever is a lever with occupancy trim.

Occupancy Lock is a lever with a thumb slide to set the occupancy status.

In both symbols the Status material sets the color/appearance of the occupancy strip.

I get the problem with any of the lights turned on. With ALL the lights turned off I get some very strange artifacts:

...still investigating.