-
Posts
3039 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Gallery
Posts posted by rlackore
-
-
Post the plan.
-
I suspect it's an attic wall issue. Turn the Walls, Attic layer to investigate. Posting the plan will get you a better answer.
-
1
-
-
File>Print>Drawing Sheet Setup
-
I probably don't understand your intent, but there's nothing preventing you from drawing a flat roof around the perimeter of the building. Just draw a roof plane, set the pitch to 0, and shape it as necessary. Then draw a rectangle around the middle portion and convert it to a roof hole:
As far as the disappearing wall, you need a roof plane over that bay. Any roof, really:
-
I don't know what features Interiors has, but one way to approach this is to shoot an elevation of the window, then Build>Primitive>Face. Define a material with the logo (use a file format that supports transparency, such as .png), assign the material to the face, then adjust the scale/position/etc. so it looks nice.
-
1 hour ago, dshall said:
I was thinking it made more sense to put the ROOF PLYWOOD as part of the ROOF STRUCTURE and not the ROOF FINISH.
I am thinking of how the ROOF BASELINE is determined.
I agree that the roof sheathing is structure, but I don't want it affecting the roof baseline. I set the roof baseline to establish the "heel height" for the roof trusses, and I don't want the sheathing counting against this; so I put the sheathing in the Surface.
-
-
I'm gonna beat the dead horse: post the plan.
-
I believe you'll have to create a room on Floor 1 and define the Room Type as Open Below. Then the stairs will show up on Floor 1. Or just trace the outline in CAD and move it to Floor 1.
-
-
If you're creating the symbols outside of Chief (like in Studio Max, etc.) then there are lots of content vendors that you can upload to and make money. For a while I was able to earn some decent cash with TurboSquid - and sites like these are a good place to see what kind of quality commands a certain level of pricing. If your symbols are Chief specific, then Scott's advice makes a lot of sense.
-
Like Eric says, just slide the roof plane over to give a 24" overhang, then clean up the roof intersections. Samer_Revised roof tweaks.plan
I also don't see a curved roof anywhere.
-
Thanks Mick - those are useful resources.
-
Just now, solver said:
I made a symbol.
Oh, I got it. I was thinking you were some how able to manipulate a live niche.
-
Eric, how do you get the casing to move away from the wall to outer edge of the frame? I can't accomplish that without a "fake" furred wall (like in my post).
-
-
20 minutes ago, CJSpud said:
Where's the plan??
My mistake. I accidentally selected the wrong file when uploading. Here it is: Orion 46.plan
-
Curt, if you're addressing my latest post - it's not a symbol, it's a window stuck into a furred wall. Download the included plan file to see what I did.
-
Okay, here's my second try, still using a window, but putting it into a no-def furred wall assigned invisible materials. I'm not saying this how it should be done, I just wanted to see if it could be done. I like using windows for fireplaces because they are easily customized for most situations. Plan still requires clean-up.
EDIT: I accidentally uploaded the old window symbol. Here is the plan file: Orion 46.plan
-
22 minutes ago, CJSpud said:
this model actually is suppose to hang on the outside of a wall.
I missed that (didn't read down through the manual far enough). Thanks for picking up my mistake.
-
I use windows for fireplaces. Here's a shot at it (you can adjust the casing,etc. as necessary):Orion 46.calibz
-
3
-
-
Just now, DRAWZILLA said:
When the anchor bolts are insufficient for uplift then you go to holdowns attached to 4x4 posts to comply, it all depends on the shear wall length. My framers are also very good dealing with out of square and level buildings, never had a problem they can't fix.
Perry, it's not about the anchor bolts, is it? It's about the wall-to-sill plate connection. So, sure, there are lots of ways to ensure compliance with uplift requirements - I'm just pointing out that without sheathing extending down over the 2x8 plate, and without the anchor bolts extending up through the wall sole plate, you need to make certain you're designing the sill-plate-to-sole-plate connection correctly, and not relying on a framer to simply hammer in a few 10d commons at 24" oc.
-
3 minutes ago, parkwest said:
This article might help you find the answer to your question...
http://www.jlconline.com/how-to/foundations/framing-fix-for-a-faulty-foundation_o
I can't read the full article - I'm not a JLC member, but I was able to read most of the first paragraph. Based solely on that, I would say that it's unreasonable to expect that the every job will have foundation walls that are 1-1/2" out of level. Indeed, when it happens, creative framing or another solution is required - but that doesn't mean you need to incorporate a fix for every contingency into your construction drawings.
-
I understand some of the advantages mentioned by Michael, though it may complicate incorporating braced wall panels using any methods that require exterior wall panel sheathing, and ensuring a continuous load path for uplift. But, it's all in the details.
Electrical Symbols - Changing Letters
in General Q & A
Posted
The "R" is embedded in the 2D CAD block that is used for the symbol. You can insert a copy of the block into your drawing using the CAD Block Management dbx, then explode the block, change the "R" to "F", create a new block, and assign it to the symbol you're using for the freezer outlet.
The other method (which I prefer) is to create a block without any letters, then simply change the object label to whatever you need.