rlackore

Scott, when I try to download your plan I get this:

On 8/27/2018 at 11:48 AM, rlackore said:

The best you can do is create many closely-spaced lights and adjust their illumination properties until you achieve a satisfactory result. You will have to compromise between rendering speed and appearance.

AFAIK, this is the only answer. There is no easy, automated solution - you simply have to bite the bullet and do the work.

6 minutes ago, HumbleChief said:

Great idea but could not download the symbol.

You should be able to just click on the link (or right click>save link as). It downloads fine for me.

18 hours ago, Aamir77 said:

I am unable to achieve the required outlook even with different techniques as yet.

I posted a symbol here that may help.

I became tired of positioning loads of lights to simulate LED tape light strips, so I created this symbol: LED Tape Light.calibz

The symbol is only 24" long - you need to use a row of several symbols to produce varying lengths. There are 96 lights per symbol at 5 lumens per light, for a total output of 240 lumens/foot. You can easily produce half the output (120 lumens/foot) by simply turning off every-other light. Adjusting the per-light lumen output is straight-forward but exceptionally tedious because the changes can't be made in the Adjust Lights dbx, you must modify each individual light (all 96 of them) within the symbol dbx. The symbols display reasonably well in both raytrace and physically based:

Raytrace, 240 lumens (48 lights) / foot

Raytrace, 120 lumens (24 lights) / foot

Physically based, 240 lumens (48 lights) / foot

Physcially based, 120 lumens (24 lights) / foot

The best you can do is create many closely-spaced lights and adjust their illumination properties until you achieve a satisfactory result. You will have to compromise between rendering speed and appearance.

Search these forums - several of us have posted individual symbols and user libraries.

You can raise the large roof to provide a wall against which the small roof can terminate:

Or you can slope both roof planes in the same direction and join them along the common edge:

Or you could create a hipped intersection:

There are other possibilities as well, but what you want is not doable.

Eric has a point - you're plan diagram and your elevation do not match. Regardless, it can't be done as drawn, which is why you're having a difficult time modeling it in Chief.

I use Molding Polylines. They are tedious to place, but once in position they look good.

Place the bed in any open space. Then you can select the bed and rotate/position it however you wish.

This fixes it, but I can't say why it's happening:

There's no quick and easy way to export everything to CAD - you just have to plow through it one view at a time.

I do mezzanines as a second floor level, with the "non-mezzanine" portion as "open to below". Others use the new shelf ceiling feature, but I think a second floor level works best for setting up the stairs and railings.

When I do pre-engineered steel buildings I don't worry about the steel shapes - only the column base locations and dimensions, and the general arrangement of the wall/roof layers (outset girts, inset girts, etc.). My building and wall sections use a lot of CAD. All other aspects of modeling the building are standard Chief techniques.

14 hours ago, ACADuser said:

Here is the work in progress.

4 units takes 30 seconds to download.

Loading is slow! I had to use Edge - the Viewer never seems to work for me in Chrome. Anyway, the elevations in your OP fooled me as much as they fooled Rod - I thought the area beneath the funky projection was a deck, but it's just a roof. I still think the best solution for the funky projection is wood frame, clad in TAFS, with a grey-colored TPO membrane for the top, flashed at the perimeter with a color-matched drip edge. GRP would give you more color choices, but maybe GRP isn't readily available in Florida. That said, looking at the model in 3D, I have to agree that Rod has a point - that funky projection seems like a lot of work for nothing. If it was sheltering a deck area it could be justified, but it's not even shading the roof-top a/c units!  I'm sure there are other considerations, but maybe you could eliminate the horizontal portion, along with the supports, and keep only the main vertical element that serves to break up the side facade. But, I suppose it's a personal choice - I believe form should have some kind of function.

48 minutes ago, KervinHomeDesign said:

Personally I'd modify the wall below to extend right up to this feature, as shown in the attached image.

It's a plaza deck! Why would you enclose it? The loss of a primary outdoor living/entertaining space is probably a non-starter for the client. Sure, there are challenges, but enclosing the space isn't the best answer.

I hate balconies and decks over living spaces, but it happens all the time. I think finding a competent installer is more important than the system. I don't have any experience using a GRP membrane as a traffic wear layer - around here we typically use PVC membranes.

Alan, there has to be some kind of pitch to those flat portions, right? You're preferred method of 18" deep wood trusses could accomplish this easily. I don't see any substantial benefit to CFS over wood, unless the rest of the project is framed in CFS and the contractor doesn't want to mix materials/systems. I'd consider wood frame, excellent flashing details, and a fully-adhered TPO or gel-coat GRP membrane for the low-slope roof piece.

Maybe the Chatroom is a better place for this discussion.

Raquel, maybe you're not longer monitoring this thread, but if you are, I recommend learning Sketchup. It's become a critical part of my Chief workflow, has many available plugins that make things easier, and can create your cabinet piece for import into Chief as a Symbol: caffevero.skp

Even easier:

1. Draw a CAD profile and save it to your library:

2. Draw an arc and convert it to a molding polyline, then add the profile:

3. Position it within the cabinets:

This method provides the lovely rounded edges on the curved piece.

15 hours ago, ShaneK said:

You can control siding height with pony wall

Yes, Method 2 with the upper floor using a pony wall with height above floor set to 0":

11 hours ago, mattyt12 said:

... minus gradient fills which Glenn pointed out is the only thing chief lacks.

I've Suggested gradient fills. If anyone else wants to +1 the suggestion, maybe we can get Chief to provide them.

1. Draw a truncated pyramid as so:

This will be the curved counter piece.

2. Draw a cylinder in the center of the pyramid. Make it taller than the pyramid. This will be subtracted from the pyramid:

3. Boolean subtract the cylinder from the cone:

4. Draw a box, larger than the pyramid, and do another boolean subtraction:

5.  In ortho view, grab the rotate handle and rotate the shape 180 degrees to the proper orientation:

6. Now position the shape relative to the counter:

What this technique can't give you are the rounded edges on the curved shape, so a better alternative would be to create the shape in another program, such as Sketchup. That said, someone else on the forum may have a better method.