robdyck

If that's a stone watertable / sill, you can modify a library material so that you get the appearance of joints every 24" as well as vertical pattern lines. 

Assign this material to the molding that's in your library and that will save some steps down the road.

A good material to start with is shown below. In the past, I've used some of the maps from the tiled version and added them to the Slate(mocha) texture. Resize to 144"x144", adjust the pattern and color blend...

Hi Angela, another option is to use the same molding as a sill for those windows. No apron, no extension, no wrap.

No, but I can convert it into a 3d symbol that can be imported in X15 and converted to a cabinet door.

Here's the X15 library object.archdoor.calibz

32 minutes ago, Ryan-M said:

Can you do the work to create an emissive face/rectangle with a specific orientation once and then add it to the library for future use?

This isn't my post, but I just did that and compared a scene using a 'face' versus and added light. The emissive properties of the face did create much better scene lighting, even if the added light did not cast shadows and have the same lumens as the 'face' material.

My 'face' was 24"x24", top at 88" above the floor (the room had a high ceiling), and I used the material 'Lighting - White' with no adjustments. 

You can blend the color. In many regions, brown and green treated lumber are available.

This really only takes a couple of minutes to make. Start with an interior door, scale the size, adjust the arch, convert to fixture, add the 3d solid, convert to cabinet door.

You can make it take longer if you want the 45degree woodgrain on the curved piece. If you like it quick, then here's a library symbol.

CUSTOM ARCH CABINET DOOR.calibz

Your results may be dependent on the tools you've used. Chief models the driveways / sidewalk / curbs to meet, but they aren't creating actual terrain elevation data so the grass region does not conform. Manual terrain input can override this.

Another easy way to avoid that is to use a rolled gutter / curb / sidewalk, if that's regionally appropriate. Personally, I find that Chief's curb / driveway tools don't provide me with the control and realism that I prefer.

You could probably take a 3d text symbol, convert it to a millwork symbol, and then apply it as a window / door lintel. Then, with some additional layer display steps, you create a new curved text symbol for simpler placement. Still, it's quite a bit of work.

2 hours ago, Ange822 said:

I would be happy to share this user catalog I created if you would use it?

Thanks for the offer! I can tell you that I would not use it simply because you and I have different needs for these types of components. My guess is that your work with your employer gives you the need to re-use some of these. In my work of custom homes, every time I need timber components they really are unique to the project and I have to be careful not to re-use them!

6 hours ago, Michael_Gia said:

At 50 samples I can actually move around in realtime on the PC. 

Interesting! Could you post a screen capture video of that in progress? The windows snipping tool does video record that you can easily copy then paste into the forum post.

6 hours ago, Ange822 said:

@robdyck Okay no worries, I do still have all the blocks I just didn't save them. I will do that for reference. I was hoping it would be easier to modify the symbol after the fact.

Am I missing something though in that Chief article where it says to edit / right click and open the symbol to edit?

 

Thanks for your help with this!

The editing of a symbol like a gable end truss is limited to what you can accomplish by using stretch planes and deleting surfaces to create new symbols. I actually wouldn't recommend using a symbol at all for a deco. truss.

Just use the arch. block. Very easy to explode and adjust as the design evolves, or replace from the library when the roof pitch / scale changes. Obviously, this means saving new versions of the arch. block.

If you use a lot of timber components, which I know you do, I'd suggest having a Chief Plan file just to store all these arch. blocks, posts, beams, etc. in addition to adding frequently used items to your library.

Keep in mind that you can make more elaborate deco. trusses using...wait for it...a truss! A 3d solid would be my last resort for modelling these. 

Lots of different ways, all with pros and cons. The best method is somewhat dependent on EXACTLY how you will be using it. Is it for elevation views, renders, materials lists, construction component detail drawings, schedules...?

On 10/24/2024 at 9:07 AM, robdyck said:

I'd suggest saving the block for future editing,

Did you do this? The ability to edit a symbol is quite limited and it's usually easier to explode the arch. block, edit the components and create a new symbol.

https://www.lenovo.com/ca/en/p/laptops/legion-laptops/legion-5-series/legion-pro-5i-gen-9-16-inch-intel/83df00anus

2 hours ago, winterdd said:

Hey guys, second floor of the home has either i-joists or webbed trusses. I am having requests for tray ceilings under the second floor. Is this possible and can you even cut into floor members to do this? I mean if I am using 16" i joists or trusses and the minimum tray depth is 12" that doesn't leave much structure.

This is easier with floor trusses than with I-joists, but either one could be possible depending on the load and span. If you already have 16" for the floor system, then check to see if 11 7/8" or 12" is suitable for the span / load of the floor above.

5 minutes ago, GeneDavis said:

Roof returns are done to eliminate the bad architectural practice of having a pork chop end, and unless you give a return its own return, including frieze wrap, as is done by using the molding, you get a pork chop.

 

I had a great pork chop at a steak joint called Perry's the other night.  But I don't like to see them on roof corners.

Boxed eaves, which sounds much nicer than 'pork chops', are built to eliminate the costs associated with roof returns, allowing homeowners to occasionally visit a steak house and not have the embarrassment of publicly ordering a pork chop!

15 minutes ago, stevenyhof said:

While this is a remodel, and the As-Built trim work is not that important, what I have learned is that using roof frieze moldings does not end the boards properly at the gable end of the returns, whereas using a poly molding did work well.

Very good point. Using a molding polyline is also what I would have done to match the existing condition.

Hey Steve, I've made some simple adjustments which will be very easy for you to follow.

1. This corner has multiple roof planes in the same location

2. All of these 9:12 roof returns are not accurately built

This can be identified easily by zooming in really tight and by changing the Number Style to decimal inches. Copy the fascia elevation from the main roof plane and paste that to all roof return roof planes. Then, reconnect the hips of the roof returns.

Lastly, cut, then paste-in-place one of the main roof planes.

If you can post your plan file, some generous person will point out the exact problem and solution almost immediately!

For room / wall elevations, these can be automatically created in a logical order using the 'Create Room Elevation Views' tool.

There is no way to auto-rename them. What I prefer to do in the instance you describe is to add the new elevation and name it E4.1...and so on.

I simply don't have time to redo everything because of a single change and over the years I have learned to accept the function of the software rather to fight against it. Adaptation is key!

You need to change the pitch for the wall directly adjacent to and perpendicular to the gable end.

@CharlesYou need to create a macro and enter the script.

Go to Tools>Ruby Console>Tutorial>forward...to Topic 14

Glad to hear that! When you get the chance, it might be helpful to others if you mark that post as a solution.