joey_martin

Go to cabinet default settings and turn off AUTO FILLER

Don't try to get a doorway in there, create one. Either break the roof plane and pull the bottom section up to create the opening, or cut a hole in the roof plane. 

No need to change anything other than select the "room" in the foundation that needs to be a basement and open the dbx. Select to add a floor below the room and set the stemwall height, done. 

You need to give that "attic" room a name and floor platform to get a rim joist.

Won't put a rim at the ceiling line where wall framing exists.

I'm 100%confused. Chief allows you to set the R.O. and frame size, and whatever size window you want. What am I missing?

Looks like you have drawings. Import them onto a layout sheet.

Open the callout and make sure you have the correct text size specified.

No problem. 

Move the roof planes you want shown to the proper floor.

Sounds like you need to scale your text better. You should be able to get a ton of information on an elevation and still fit 2 elevations per 24x36 page. 

You can also select the chair and open the dbx and tell it to go below the table....think base cabinet....

14 minutes ago, Alaskan_Son said:

Looks like that's probably a railing wall

Nope. I do my own post/beam porches most of the time. But I do create the posts with the soffit tool, maybe that's why. 

Yep, did not have to open the symbol, just drug it over there.

@Alaskan_Son beat me. Last time I did it I did not have to open the symbol though. I will try again.

I think it needs to be initially placed on a wall. Place it on an exterior wall, the drag it to the post.

Perhaps label it "Addendum Schedule"

Change it to show the way you want...

No need to cut a hole, just break the edge of the roof in a couple places and pull it back.

Just cut the roof back and use a round dormer roof to connect it all.

I use the material region tool. Takes more time, but looks better.

I am working on a current project with a ZIP system. This is how I set it up.

Keep in mind that, I know the actual ZIP green layer isn't 1/16" thick, it's part of the ZIP system as a whole, but should the homeowner change their mind, I don't have to do a bunch of messing with wall layers since the materials list is going to count the OSB, and the ZIP layer for me to use. 

Place a beam in the wall and adjust the wall framing to carry the load. Just like you would build it.

Turn off the behavior, or make the outside walls touch.