SHCanada2
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I'm endeavoring to move off spreadsheets, but I cannot get the formatting to work in the schedule. I am trying to return multiline in one row. I tried using tabs in a macro to try and align two columns within one column. That didnt work, see below I tried to different columns, but the numbers dont seem to line up I suppose I could use a uniform character font and type out the spaces, but do not really want to do that. any other ideas?
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I use one pitch cad block on the front elevation, if all pitches are the same andvthats it. The roof plan view is quite nice with its pitches and artows, it's also where I dimension the eave. I don't dimension eaves on elevations. Biggest problem is people ask for the pitch triangle. But I did see a plan the other day with the label in the roof like CA does it. Must have been CA...
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that was an impressive find. ironically I have 3 concrete materials in my plan too
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Dropping a Floor and Raising the Ceiling of a Room - Video | Chief Architect
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Got spooked about the blue by a bad print job
SHCanada2 replied to GeneDavis's topic in General Q & A
i use OOTB blue for the template lines and text. It looks fine from my laser printer -
I havent seen it, but I assume you could put a beam down the middle at ceiling level, put mono trusses on either side. ..if you do not want a vault
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..beam and parrallel chord truss. cut the truss length by half
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it happens to all the rooms at once, they just vanish, and then you have to go room by room turning them back on
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i don't remember ...
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yes, this was not a picture taken by me, it took me a while to find a clear example like this, on the internet. It seemed for most, the post either went all the way up through the railing, or part way up the stone went to the post, or most were not a flush beam
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i thought you were going to say that Most plans here are in ft-in, except for site plans, which are in m, and geodetic if required..in m. all the usual 12", 16", 24" for spacing are still used believe it or not, there is a Canadian version of the simpson catalog, just becuase we are special
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if it is solid beyond the flush beam, how would the water drain if it is 1x6 deck boards and the blocking+ beam is > 5.5"? just put on joist saver or bitumen based sheet and let the water run along the top of the blocking/flush beam to the end?
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thanks, fur out the beam would seem to be good answer. ...perhaps make it like a torsion box here they allow sonotubes for decks only,
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does anyone know how these are structurally done with flush beams? something like where lets say the brick is 14"x14" on the outside suppose the flush beam at the end of the deck is 3 ply. This would be 4.5 inch. and suppose the post inside the stone was 6x6. if the post was centered under the beam, the post would be 0.5" proud of the outside of the deck. Add to that the stone at a thickness of 1" or so, and it is 1.5" proud. so are people just adding another cosmetic ply at the end to make up for this. If so, then the post itself would need to be box framed out with 2x4s, such that on the inside below the deck, it would come out around 7"? are the 2x4s just affixed to the post and thats good to hold the stone? The above shows it on concrete pads, which I guess could hold it if it was deep like a footing, but for a standard 10 or 12" pile up North here, does this 2x4 build out sit on the 2" left on the pile beyond the post surface area. i.e. if the post is centered on the pile, there is not a lot left to support 7" of a boxed 2x4, especially given the post would be centered and if the customer wanted 20" outside dims...just keep building out a 2x4 box and hope it holds? thanks
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I have this firepace setup as its own little room with 60" room hieght. The wall that delineates it is a pony wall with room divider on the bottom and normal stuccp 6 wall on top. but outside is showing studs or something: inside walls are no room definition framing seems to look ok, more or less: is there a better way toi do this? 694 Muirfield Cr - fe (6).zip
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that is the key, solver's video demostrates it. thank you both
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@glennw I still must be mising something. attached video is what I am trying . clicking S on arc, clicking on polyline. clikcing start of arc, clicking on polyline. no luck 15.09.2023_17.59.15_REC.mp4
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thanks, a search of the help for "start of line" did not yield any useful results for the first two pages of results
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how did you get he S to show?
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@solver, yes that works, alternatively a couple less steps. select the line, and click close polyline. No need to look for the ends. then change that newly closed line edge to arc and use the red triangle to snap as you show. although it would be nice to just combine the arc and the polyline...like Rene's video, or glenn's thoughts thanks
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doesnt look to unless I am missing something i dont see an "S" on the line...tried clicking the S key
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ok this works as long as I snap using the red triangle Merci
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i figured there muist be a simple way
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attached694 Muirfield Cr - fe (5).zip be careful not to select the dimension extension on the bottom if trying to select the pline