SHCanada2

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  1. Please move this to Q&A. Two ways I do it. If it is just a couple walls, I just use a hatched polyline that represents the wall to be demolioshed. Sophisticated way. Once you draw the existing plan, save it, then duplicate it(proposed plan). Then you create a reference view that shows both plans. you can then create something like this: CA has some videos on it: Using the Reference Display - Video | Chief Architect you can also search the forum for reference display
  2. Your bottom chord is lower than the top plate as you can see the truss being cut by the top plate. Maybe need to rebuild the framing to rebuild the truss. I see this frequently if I am fiddling with roof heights
  3. Hmmm, i assumevyou also refreshed the layout box. You might need to post the plan and layout
  4. Did you save the saved plan view?
  5. That said, it may be helpful to start with something. I believe renerabbit alaskanson and joecarrick sell templates
  6. my guess is the exterior front steps should only be two risers or they are adjusting the grade next to the steps. This would give you enough to get into the garage, but then that would screw up the front windows (they would need window wells). you might want to drive by and see it or look on google streetview. I also notice the garage floor looks like it is a couple inches above the bottom of the front stairs ...or they have 3 risers in the garage and they have to make sure not to drive into it Your "porch room" is set to -53" absolute floor elevation. Why is it a porch room, as it is inside the house? It should not be a porch room second, it shows 4 risers into the main house rooms. This would imply a max of 4*7-7/8 change in floor elevation. Where does -53 come from? third your garage floor is at -26 1/8" which is above -53". effectively making your garage floor above your porch room floor If it was me I'd put the garage at -3*7.5 which is -22.5 less the door rise, say 3", which would put the garage at -25.5 relative to the entry. Given the entry(porch room) is 4 risers less than the main floor, I would put your "porch room" at - 4*7.5 which is -30". Add that to the garage puts the garage floor at -30+-25.5, which is -55.5. I would then adjust the roof on the garage to match the height of the roof on the elevation ...you could also scale the elevations and measure the front risers
  7. did you "rebuild terrain"?
  8. you are correct rob, if I add the extra 1/8", so the heel is 7 1/8 (3.5+3-5/8) it builds correctly with the heel
  9. normally I don not have this issue because I make it larger to accomodate better insulation as I prefer more at the wall edge. However, for this case, the roof needs to be lowered in order to "look better" next to another roof I assume this is the structure width? I assumed this was the bottom chord height I have
  10. ah, are you saying that is what controls that? i.e. if I made the subfascia the same height as the fascia, then the facia board would not get cut horizontally like I show? interesting
  11. energy heel was already on, the force rebuild did not work. I seem to remember a couple years ago I did a test and it would only create the energy heel if it was x amount high. Any other ideas other than manually editing the truss?
  12. Can I get the truss lower chord to not go across in the eave area? As can be seen the soffit is intersecting the truss...erroneously
  13. would like it to look like the red below. I tried all the combinations under roof plane->options->eave but could not find something that does per below:
  14. attached is not quite how you have it, but it is a way without macros. For the living area for the floors, pick which rooms are needed to be included in your jurisdiction 20.09.2025_20.09.42_REC.mp4