DianeP

It isn't just the walls.  the cabinets can go past each other now as well.

The walls have started allowing cabinets and fixtures to go past them.  They used to stop at the edge of the fixture unless the control key was pushed.  Anyone had difficulty with this?  Any solutions? Thanks a bunch!  I am using x7

Thanks  Joe!

Is there anyway to have the window schedule output the width, height, and R/O in ft and inches instead of just inches.  Customer request. Thanks a bunch!

Hi All,

I have 2 dining room walls and a foyer wall that all have doorways creating as large as possible openings and leaving small rectangles of drywall for using as columns.  I am trying to wrap the bottom and top.  I have tried to do this using wall coverings. but the doorway side will not accept a wall covering.  Have any of you done this?  If so, what method did you use?  Thanks a bunch!

Before export create the a new wall and roof with surfaces that  do not have a pattern, then simply replace the existing walls and roofs.

Yes, I have done this before but the windows, columns etc still are single lines. It does make it easier, though.  

Any solutions so that .dwg exports on exterior elevations don't have individual lines for brick and shingles which would be hatch entities in AutoCAD ( all blocked and together).  Also would like windows to be blocked instead of individual lines. On floor plan the brick representation also comes out as small individual diagonal lines.along with windows, doors, cabinets etc.  However fixtures like toilets, washer, dryer, heat pump, sinks, stove (in other word things blocked and inserted from the library) come in as blocked. There is an option to create associative dimensions, so at least these aren't exploded lines, texts and arrows. Is there way to export to dwg other entities that seem as one block in Chief Architect (like doors and windows, brick and shingles) to remain as one block into a .dwg that I am missing?

Geez, I hate to sound like a broken record about multi-button mice, but thru button mapping I have taken a lot of the pain out of wiring a home.  (with the exception of the wild connect arcs)

 

Just like Alan I have created hot keys, assigned to my mouse - see the attached picture.  Unlike Alan I needlessly complicated the hot key combination - the final letter points to the function like c - for connect, t - for 220 o - for outlet, etc.   I also include 1 for break which I occasionally use to tame the arcs. 

Wow, looks like that would work well but there would be a learning curve for me.  I am such a creature of habit with my left and right click mouse that has a scroll wheel.  Did it take you long to adjust?

I have hot keys set up for the electrical item placement. E,S = switch   E,L = light  E,R = outlet (receptacle) E,C = connection

Great idea, I will look up how to set hot keys. Thanks!

Any other short cuts you use to make the tedious task of electrical layout page simpler.  If so, please share.  It is my least enjoyable part of a project.

I can't remember the key(s) to use to cycle forward on the last electrical components used. I know esc key goes backwards.  Can anyone help me remember the key to go forward?

Told you I was brain dead.  I matched the foundation to the wall above after I made the 6" wall type and it looks right now. 

Still can't recreate the 6" beam on top of the new railing.  I have newels, wall and foundation set to 6" but beam still is narrower.  Is there somewhere else I have to go to change this? 

Told you I was brain dead.  I matched the foundation to the wall above after I made the 6" wall type and it looks right now. 

Also,how did  you make the beam 6".  I am trying to recreate in x7 and my beam isn't 6" when I create the new 6" rail wall type.  Tha

 

Thanks for working this out for me.  It looks just like I imagined.  couple of questions:  

 

Can you show some screen shots by chance on how you increased the slab footings by 4". I am a bit confused as i show the before and after footing at 16 wide and 8" deep.  

 

Also,was it just making the new 6" railing wall that made tje foundation wide enough to let the posts sit on top and not overhang.  So tired right now, my brain is misfiring.  Might be able to get a better idea once I have some sleep.  Thanks again!!!

 

Thanks for working this out for me.  It looks just like I imagined.  couple of questions:  

 

Can you show some screen shots by chance on how you increased the slab footings by 4". I am a bit confused as i show the before and after footing at 16 wide and 8" deep.  

 

Also,was it just making the new 6" railing wall that made tje foundation wide enough to let the posts sit on top and not overhang.  So tired right now, my brain is misfiring.  Might be able to get a better idea once I have some sleep.  Thanks again!!!

Also,how did  you make the beam 6".  I am trying to recreate in x7 and my beam isn't 6" when I create the new 6" rail wall type.  Thanks!

Thanks for working this out for me.  It looks just like I imagined.  couple of questions:  

Can you show some screen shots by chance on how you increased the slab footings by 4". I am a bit confused as i show the before and after footing at 16 wide and 8" deep.  

Also,was it just making the new 6" railing wall that made tje foundation wide enough to let the posts sit on top and not overhang.  So tired right now, my brain is misfiring.  Might be able to get a better idea once I have some sleep.  Thanks again!!!

Hi Diane,  I had a go at your porch. Hoping you like how this looks .  Building with the Mono Slab gives many more possibilities.  I have attached your fixed plan file, and this is a summary of what I felt was required.

 

I Set up a new Single Layer 6" Railing Wall Type.

Made your beams 6" to match posts.

Removed Railing Footings.

Increased Mono Slab Footings by 4" for post inset.

Turned on Attic End walls for porch.

Removed Ceiling for more open feel.

Dropped Roof plane 4" for more window clearance and full birdsmouth.

I would also recommend moving the whole porch a foot or two to the right.

 

Hoping this Helps.

Attached plan is empty. Make sure it's not open in Chief.

Sorry about that.  Here is the plan.

Welch DRAW PLAN swap m bed and bathplan.zip

If you would like me to take a look I will because if you have understood and done this correctly it will move you wall center back from the outside edge of the porch. Is your wall a Railing wall set to be "Post to Beam"?

Thank you so much for your offer.  Sorry for the delay in responding.  So busy these days, which is a good thing since I have too clear a recollection of the 2008-2012 home building desert.  Here is an example of what I am talking about on the posts/ columns hanging off the concrete.  I tried widening the railing wall but it just widens the wall from the center and the columns still hang off the concrete.  Would love it if you showed me an easier way than drawing an invisible wall outside of rail. 

Welch DRAW PLAN swap m bed and bathplan.zip

Does anyone know if in real life you can cut a little bit out of the bottom of a stair stringer.  I have a client that wants to recess his refrigerator under the stairs a little bit so that it more closely meets the depth of the cabinets,  I have done this with CA using a doorway without casings that is just a little taller and wider than his refrigerator.  It fits and barely clears the stinger.  I was curious if the stringer becomes a problem in maneuvering the refrigerator into place, can they be notched on the bottom.  It wouldn't be a lot, maybe a 3" x 3" notch.  If it can be, what would the maximum amount allowed be?  Thanks!!

You could post your plan so I could take a look but I think you need to adjust your railing "Wall Type" thickness to the size of your Columns or a little larger if you need to recess them.

I just saw your reply and thought I would give it a try as well.  Seems like it would work but the outside of the thicker wall stays put and the beam gets wider towards the inside of the wall.  Therfore, the column still overhangs. 

Diane I believe if u put another railing on the outside of the existing adjust to where u want them then make those invisible

That worked.  Thanks!

Is there a way from the floor plan to set a distance from the rail/ beam to the edge of the concrete for the porch.   I  have larger columns and they hang over the concrete.  How do you handle the porch columns?  Thanks!

Sorry, didn't mean to include links.  Just saw the list and copied and pasted it in my post.

Is there a list available of the different defaults provided by the built in templates provided by Chief Architect.  I am speaking of the templates which include american casual, arts & crafts, change, colonial, contemporary, cottage, country, country cottage, mediterranean,  today's traditional, urban chic.  It would be nice to know the ceiling height that is set along with the door window styles and heights, casing width, railing style, etc.  It would make it easier to select the proper template according the project i am working.  Has anyone seen such a list?  How do you select the template to use?

Outstanding!  Thanks so much for the quick fix.

I remember having this issue in x5 and fixed it somehow.... just can't remember what I did. Does anyone else know the fix? I don't want the elevations to print this dark. I would like them closer to what is shown on the layout page.  I tried  printing to a .pdf driver and using the save as .pdf,  Same result.  Any ideas???