mtldesigns

@Flash691

Hi there Robbie.

I'm not in Marianna but just south of Tallahassee, so we are about an hour and half apart via I10.  I was through that way last week matter a fact.  

Let me know how I can help.

7 hours ago, Jake1976 said:

it seems like a lot of work for something quite simple

It is a lot of work... and not always friendly to use, but I haven't found another way way. Can always do a wall def with the reveal backing showing, and then model individual panels with solids.. let me know if you find a simpler way.  

11 hours ago, ThomasR89 said:

I'm trying my best to figure all of this out.

Hey Thomas,

As mentioned, you will have to model the beams, post and footings manually.  Start by building your foundation wall (walls with footings), then build your floor framing, so you can strategically place your beams.  There is a post with footing pulldown to get you started, then use your floor/ceiling beam tool.  Its really not that hard, just more time consuming than a house on slab.

Yeah they do this all the time, I just note it on my plans and they make it happen.  I was wondering if I could show in Chief.. with auto roof truss framing.

As the title states, I am putting an air handler in the attic of this small 1400 sq single level home.  Actually, they do that a lot here in the panhandle of FLO.  How do I notch out an area so that the trusses do not fill this area?  It's too late to do anything on this house, but my next house will have the same situation.  Do I need to make a "room" def. up here??  Any ideas will be helpful.  

Thanks in advance

2 hours ago, ChiefUserBigRob said:

What is the easiest way to fix this

I always turn the corner with the full height wall with brick, by like 24".. then continue on with the pony.  This way you wont have the gap on the end of the brick wall (where air gap is)

I rarely use Chiefs backdrops just for the thing you mentioned and also the actual views we have to chose from.  Who builds there home on a wave, in the middle of a lake or in the middle of the road as what we have with our choices.  If I can get to the site, I take pictures.. if I can't Google Earth is the route.

13 hours ago, Rich_Winsor said:

I especially liked

that rack of antlers on the deer on the wall

I agree..  I'm not a hunter, so how many point is that.  Doesn't look like the 8 point I see hanging on my friends wall.  

4 hours ago, robdyck said:

pdf to image

This is what I do as well.  Comes in handy with survey plans, so I don't have to duplicate the legal descriptions plus any thing else that might be on it.  I just draw the lot, easements and placements of structures and misc. 

Thank you all..  Had a storm roll through and had no power for a bit today, is why I am replying so late.  I think underground lines in my subdivision must be water logged because for some reason this year the power shuts off even during a mild shower.. at least it seams that way.

22 hours ago, Chopsaw said:

Not sure I understand what the issue is

I can do that Chop, I was asking in particular for when I am in a door or window dbx.. 

6 hours ago, SNestor said:

Made you a quick video showing you how easy this is

21 hours ago, Rpadge said:

profiles in a cad detail

I know how to do this, but your answer Robert and that vid you made Steve, cleared some things up, PLUS it will aide to others.  I blame the heat for not being clear in my OP.  What I was trying to ask or maybe wonder for a future suggestion if it was possible to have the door and window specification dbx have the options to add-change or delete and stack molding.  Without having to create a saved profile or 4 piece stack molding part like Steve showed.  We can do this in the room specifications under molding tab, is why I ask.

I am trying to figure out how to build up (or stack up) molding.  Meaning, I want two or three moldings combined as one.  Mainly need for lintels, for windows and doors, since the dbx won't let you build them like you can in a room molding dbx.  

Will be suggesting this when I am done here.

2 hours ago, GeneDavis said:

Here is a good article about it

Great web site Gene.  Full of information esp. the process.  Thanks.  

Why did you have to do saw cuts 24" on centers?  Did your plan showed that or the contractors plan?  I didn't really see where they mentioned new construction, but I would assume they don't grind and polish until the house is dried in.  So your house was on a wooden frame, that's why the 3 plates..  Now that I've had a cup of coffee, I had to read that again.  

I used Cloudy Stained Concrete via Chiefs core catalog.  I set a thickness on top of my concrete slab (4 1/2") as 1/32".    I didn't realize there were so many color and style options.  I will pass this onto my clients for them to review as well.  This is a Jacksonville company, I wonder if they'll come west to Tally, a 2.5 hour drive on I-10..  There reviews were all great.

To my concrete Chiefers...

I have a descent sized house that the clients wants a polished concrete slab throughout.  Any special notes or requirements that I need to call out?  Google gives you a thousand different answers, so I am looking for more of a direction by asking you pros.  I typically use a 4" monoslab, I know because of the grinding and polishing I will need to go thicker. 

So far this is what I have called out, please tell me if I am going in the wrong direction.

Min. 4 1/2" thk slab/slump

min. compression of 4000#. 

What about joints?  

Special aggregate?

22 hours ago, SHCanada2 said:

although in your case the roof planes might take some time too

I agree, and it looks like Vancouver Canada doesn't have flat land either.  

But Jason is right in regards the "Staging" stuff, that can take a lot of time.  Will you be just be supplying 3D viewer link for them to share, or will you be part of a design review where clients can make comments and you make changes in real time?  For example, picking multiple countertop materials until the Mrs. is happy or moving walls and openings so the Mr. is happy with a view of a football game from every corner of the house. (Both have happen to me is why I ask)

In any case, I charge a flat fee for just the house model, anything else (staging and/or design review meetings) is hourly.  I don't know the rate up there to give you a dollar amount. 

1 hour ago, JacobB said:

The Top and Bottom elevations are from the subfloor, while the Header Height is from the specified elevation reference

Thanks Jacob.  What do you mean by "specified elevation reference"? Are these based off of zero? The schedule you show is a little confusing at first glance.  The second window shows the top of the window at 80" but the header height at 202 1/4"..  

I currently don't show my RO on the schedule, but if I did, 9 times out of 10, the contractor doesn't look at the schedule to see the height anyways to care, he's looking at the plan.  I think I will show what you noted as a self check PLUS dimension window RO on my my plan views and details.  

Good to know I can show these heights though...

3 hours ago, buildwithicf said:

schedule does not accommodate for that.

I couldn't get that to show correctly either.  So since I am dimensioning the RO in the plan view, I just removed the RO from the schedule.  

As far as the 2" for your window buck, is that 1.5" for the buck frame and 1/2" for window gap?  Just curious.. that's where I am struggling a little, making sure the RO is big enough but not to big to defeat the purpose of the ICF wall.

On 7/11/2023 at 11:21 PM, Kiwideziner said:

the distance the bottom of the wall is to the floor level,

On 7/11/2023 at 11:46 PM, DBCooper said:

type's Brick Ledge Depth

On 7/12/2023 at 12:19 PM, Kbird1 said:

about 2:30 in..

Ah..  thank you.  So basically my brick ledge depth in this case.  

Sorry for late reply.  Lost power to a storm yesterday and I didn't open internet when it came back up.

I am curious of what the extension length is for in the wall dbx?  I couldn't find a thing in Chief about it..  Maybe I am looking in the wrong place...?

https://www.chiefarchitect.com/support/article/KB-02944/defining-a-new-wall-type.html

On 7/4/2023 at 9:47 PM, mtldesigns said:

rotated with the plan

This also the case for section arrows aka "CALLOUTS".  You have to make the text style a custom source and uncheck "rotate with plan".

@Luciano FYI your future reference.

8 hours ago, JKEdmo said:

using Molding Lines

I go this route all the time.  Yes, its more lines on a default model, but you have so much more control.  

35 minutes ago, JKEdmo said:

I'm still learning the ins and outs of Chief.  It's only been a year

And IMO I think you have gained a lot of knowledge of this software in that one year..

11 hours ago, Luciano said:

removed the check mark beside Rotate with plan

It took me a minute to figure that out myself a month or so ago.  To me, by having it checked means you do want it rotated with the plan, right?  That's what I was thinking anyways, if my layout view is rotated, I want that note to rotate as well.

testing 1 2 3

black diamond door.calibz

I have one.  I create a symbol in my library.. how do I get it on here though??

10 hours ago, ChiefUserBigRob said:

auto generated frieze boards

Hey Rob...

I'm just guessing because I didn't see a model to look at.  By chance is your carport slab done with invisible walls instead of a driveway?  If so, that could be why, since that frieze is looking for a wall to continue out.  

1 hour ago, Joe_Carrick said:

could use invisible walls to define the rooms and then use regular interior walls between the posts

I actually tried this method on my first post-beam.  Hated it, esp. if anything changed.  And I was always reconfiguring that invisible wall.  To me, since my clients do not use a wall details (per Chief), nor a BOM of lumber, I just ran my walls as normal and placed my post.  So much simpler.  Not to mention, the post are typically 8" sq.. how much am I really gaining in a BOM if I cut at each post?   For a detail, I pick one post and manually place studs (poly solids, material fir) to show the connection.