BFogarty

Thank you Derek

If one is a legacy user and if they ultimately decide to stop at some point, don’t they get to keep the last version they have paid their SSA into?

Sorry if this was answered, I did not see it. What if one is current with their SSA on X14, stays current on SSA for lets say 3 more versions to "X17" and decide you are done. Do you walk away with still being able to use X17, or do you have to go back to X14?

Gene, While my current capacity is filled as a GC/Designer/Code Official, by trade I am a framer. As a framer, and regardless of plans, I'd never of allowed for that situation to have been created without a cricket, its a ticking time bomb (which you're well aware of now...). If the GC I was framing for told me to construct it that way, I would've made him sign an affidavit acknowledging his choice of construction, potential risk, and that I would not be responsible for any water related issues. In my 25 years of framing, I thankfully never came across such a thing. Regarding plan review and periodic inspections during construction- This is not an item, if not specified on the plan, would stick out to me as an item to note to the contractor. How often are stair rails/guards not noted on plans (a lot!), but they surely are installed during construction. The inspection thing could go either way. I could point out the potential issue and refuse to sign their card until it's corrected....if they disagree, they can appeal my decision, which turns into a drawn out mess for the GC. Or the inspector could see it and have the mindset of "it's not a safety issue, that's on the GC", and not bring it up. I would NOT choose the latter. As Tina mentioned (I think), building departments are designed for assigning liability to others throughout the process. If done correctly, there is someone on the hook for multiple stages of the process, with them not being on the end of any. Not saying departments cannot be held liable ever, but good luck with that route. My gut says this is on the GC, they allowed the situation to occur, and shame on them for it... Hope you're able to get this resolved.

I hear ya on the p-solid, a time tested go to! But this is one that's just bugging me on "what in the world is causing this?!?"...lol

Been beating my head against the wall for an hour now, having no luck getting the cheek wall to fill in. Each time I pull the interior knee wall away it fills, put it back and I have a hole again. Checked settings over and over, with to no avail, never had this happen before without figuring it out. Pic and plan attached. X13 1 Mathurin 7.6.21.plan

Yup, here it is. Thanks Eric!

So funny the coincidence, just ran into that same issue

Will give that a shot!

Done...Thanks!

Just did this Perry, and it did help. I also added additional lighting in attempt to brighten things up....but it's still really dim. Any other thoughts on getting it brighter? Thanks!

Is it possible to get recessed lights without the "halo" around the outer ring? Just doesn't look realistic this way. Can't upload the plan at the moment, but will if necessary. Thx

Your help/time is much appreciated!

The door looks great!...lol One actually has to go there, or we'll extend the deck over and center a door on that back wall. I'm still stuck on the "why" this happened (I should really move on :), nothing productive in it), do you think it stemmed from the as-built and then the stuff I removed, then adding new floor/walls/roof? Ultimately something I had set on the as-built didn't jive with the new? Thanks for your help Mick!

I was going to rip it apart, but I got too consumed with trying to find the problem Sometimes it's just best to not over think things

Weird? Absolutely. Normally I can figure dumb stuff like this out....but no such luck today. Essentially this is a remodel where there was a breezeway/garage, we're using the existing footprint to create one room. Where that front door was, was bumped out 4' or so from where the breezeway door currently is. Had no issues until we scaled back and needed to remove some stuff

Thanks Eric! Attached is a copy of the plan before I had any issues. The goal was to remove the mudroom/closet walls and bump the entire ceiling up to 12', everything was intact prior to removal. I figured this may give you an idea of everything that was going on, maybe an answer as well. I'm just too pissed off with it at this point....soo dumb! 23 Cedar St v1 (ca forum).plan

Can someone please help me with this cheek (see image)? For the life of me I cannot get it straightened out, been at it for hours. Can't believe I'm hung up on this...... Plan attached 23 Cedar St v3.plan

A little direction always helps.....it was in the CA videos. Thx...again!

I swear I get hung up on the stupidest things...... Do not want this closet to go all the way up, want to cap it flat at wall height. After 30 minutes looking through the 10 resources, I got nothing. Help!

Thank you Sir, appreciate the help!

Damn, that looks pretty good.... structurally I don't think it would be a big deal to pick that up being a gable. I was thinking manually maybe the answer. Did you just set the front railing wall to the short posts and the sides to columns?

Yes. I know if I did that then the other side would want it also, but then I'd have to move the other post to center, throwing off the railing sections. I guess one thing at a time....if there a way to remove a full post and replace it with a newel?

Hello! Not sure if I'll even end up doing it....but if I wanted to get rid of the full column that is so close to the corner, and replace it with a newel...where would one start? Thanks! 23 Cedar St v1.plan

Ahh...gotcha. Thank you!