TeaTime

Hip shot guess: Open the Spec on that new elevation, I'll bet it's a Live View while the others are Plot Lines.

6 minutes ago, mrsmith said:

Is it possible to modify the spacing on them

Nope, they're a symbol object so when the panel is resized, they just stretch.

7 minutes ago, mrsmith said:

or change the height of a fence panel from the library?

On the Fence dialog under Newels/Balusters there's both Railing height and Newel height options to set the posts and panels to different heights.

You'll probably need to create a custom panel symbol that more closely fits what you're after.

4 minutes ago, Chrisb222 said:

I liked your first "interpretation"! 

Yeah I was really on a roll with that one -- hey I don't question people's design concepts!

2 minutes ago, Chrisb222 said:

That's not the "Long Island" variety is it?? 

lol Oh, yeah maybe that's the problem... maybe LESS tea...

I'm gonna go lay down somewhere.

Heh. I think I need more Tea.

Looking again at that image I'm realizing that's not a true elevation, that curve is the eave, looking from below, huh?

Yeah this has to be done manually, and it'll only be as smooth as you make it.

With most polylines you can use a Change Line/Arc button to change a straight line to an Arc - but not with Roofs.

Instead, you'll need to draw out an Arc to the size of the curve you're looking for, then with it selected use the Convert to Polyline tool to convert it into a segmented polyline. Break up the Eave edge and manually adjust it to match.

Me: Oh I love a good challenge!

Also me: What am I doing with my life...?

27 minutes ago, msmith964 said:

or should I just use a 3D solid?

Yeah probably  

Gosh, I'm not even sure to be honest! Feels like it's always done that, but probably just a handful of versions. Just one of those classis easter eggs!!

6 minutes ago, VisualDandD said:

Is there an easy way to alter individual stair component run styles/properties of a stair composed of multiple sections?

Yup, Shift+Click a stair section to select only that one section, then you can modify it independent of the auto-group thing it does.

Just don't use Ceiling Planes for this. The program will do this automatically if you use Roof Planes and remove the Flat Ceiling on all the rooms.

This was using Auto roofs:

On 4/29/2023 at 5:21 PM, Alaskan_Son said:

Easy to reproduce.  Definitely seems to be an issue with Chief's handling of arcs that are part of solids in newer versions.  In fact, you can create a similar object in X13 using the aforementioned boolean operations (finished object looks fine), save the plan, open in X15, and without making any changes, bullnose edge is wonky.   For now, I would suggest converting that arc to a multiple segment polyline.  Oh, and please report to tech support so it gets fixed.

Right, so, this  ^ ^ 

if you need Trusses, you'll need to set up ceiling planes for them to generate correctly. See:

https://www.chiefarchitect.com/support/article/KB-03165/creating-a-parallel-chord-roof-truss.html

23 minutes ago, flightcrazed said:

Is there a good way to...lower the roof plane the 1' 8 1/4" to meet the wooden beams?

The issue here is that your roof is set to Trusses w/ a 30" Heel, but also a vaulted ceiling

Here's what it's trying to do:

To complicate matters, you seem to have accidentally create Roof Baseline Polylines -- I'm not going to get into how these things work apart from just the fact that they're going to bar the roof from building properly. Go to Edit, Deleted Objects, check "Roof Baseline Polylines" (in the top group, on the right) and press OK. Then if you go to the Build Roof dialog and set it to Rafters you'll see it drop down.

3 minutes ago, flightcrazed said:

I believe the reason it's missing in the view is because it's "invisible".

You hit the nail on the head. Simply Unchecking "Invisible" fixes this.

If I were to guess, this wall was probably deleted at some point--whether intentional or otherwise. Attic Walls pop up automatically, when you delete them the program keeps them, just marks them invisible. Delete the invisible one, it becomes visible. the program put them there for a reason and it's very adamant that they stay! Whether you SEE them or not is another story.

Hi @flightcrazed - it's helpful when asking questions on the forum that we know what software you're using - adding it to your Signature is super handy.

Looking at those images though, it looks like the missing wall is specifically on the floor above, it's likely an Attic Wall that gets automatically generated but may have been manually pulled in a camera view.

First thing I'd look at is if you can select them in 3D, or at least one of them, open it's Specification window and go to the Structure section, and make sure Default Wall Top is checked.

You might attach a copy of the plan that we can look at, too.

Here's specific steps/info:

https://www.chiefarchitect.com/support/article/KB-00068/creating-a-vaulted-ceiling-and-scissor-trusses.html

Yup, that's Perspective for ya!

Changing the Field of View can reduce that effect, too.

Ex: 30 vs 90 (default is 55)

18 hours ago, glennw said:

My advice is not to use Rotate Plan View unless you 100% are aware of what it actually does.

I normally never suggest using Rotate Plan View, but at 90 and 180 degrees, it's overall affect is pretty minute. It's good to throw in a North Pointer so the plan knows how to orient things normally again, but, even then, yeah, things can get weird. I'd only use it for sending layout views otherwise you'll have to manually flip each one.

As far as Edit Area goes, I always says "Good luck". I've seen some very weird things happen using it.

But it seems to have worked fine here so, congrats!

I always sooner rotate the terrain data than rotate the house. There's a lot less going on with Terrain than there is all the minutia within a Plan, even without Framing/Electrical.

Just use Rotate Plan View to set the view's orientation 180 so when they're sent to Layout they'll will be facing the right way.

If the template you're using doesn't already have a Terrain Plan view, I'd make one, make a new layer set with everything locked except Terrain stuff, makes those kinds of changes a lot easier.

2 hours ago, HumbleChief said:

I'll make sure the dims are close and the printed dims are overridden to show the proper dimensions

Oof, my soul aches. You should never have to override dimensions. 

So many good suggestions in this thread. Draw walls clockwise so they draw in the right way, use Tab(Enter Coordinates), don't fight the Move Left/Right controls when changing length of a wall...

22 minutes ago, Alaskan_Son said:

1. That your Temporary Dimensions may not be measuring to the main layer...

More importantly: just don't put all your trust in Temp Dimensions. They're there to help but they're not 100% accurate. Draw walls in, run some manual dimensions, adjust from there.

23 minutes ago, Alaskan_Son said:

2. ...hit tab and enter a dimension...

I feel like Enter Coordinates is the answer to this whole post. Just stop fighting the dimensions. Draw out a wall, slap tab, type 5', enter, repeat. Bam all 5' walls. (Yes, of course this is based around the Resize About setting, but since its default Main Layer it's rarely a problem)

#JustX14Things. You can hit Fill Window (F6) and try saving the elevation again but there's no guarantee it'll actually save right.

I believe this was fixed in X15 though.

6 minutes ago, JennaJenris said:

What am I missing? 

it doesn't seem like your missing anything - it's a pretty simple control.

If you do it in a blank plan does it do the same thing? If so, maybe attach the plan.

50 minutes ago, DBCooper said:

Go to your window defaults and see if you accidently changed the vertical stacking level.  If it's not that, then you might want to post the plan.

 

DB wins this round - this is definitely the issue. In Windows Defaults on the Options panel the Vertical Stack should be 0, not 1.

However the problem is bigger than that though because changing the Default only fixes the doors since the Windows in this plan have been placed with the vertical stack of 1.

To fix them all in one go, select a window and use the Marquee Select Similar edit tool button and then Select All Similar, Open Object, change all their stacks to 0 and you should be good.

Though, looking at that screenshot again it looks like the 3'11 1/4" dimension was manually drawn -- if you select that dimension--without having something already selected--you should see a diamond handles on either side, use those to change what that Dimension is locating. Then select the chair, and click the dimension to set it's distance

4 minutes ago, GMcGee said:

I understand how to change the 2'-8 1/4" dimension shown below, but I do not understand how to change where it it pulling that dimension from.  If I want to pull the location from the wall, I don't know how to change it from the cabinet to the wall.

OH! Gotcha.

What you're seeing there is actually just a Temporary Dimension (there's a toggle for that guy over on the right toolbar)

It'll pull dimensions kinda just to whateaver's nearby, and as a result, often, is not to be trusted.

If you're trying to set that object a set distance from some specific object, draw a manual dimension (End to End is best for a simple 2 point dimension), then you can set what the dimension is locating, select the object and use the dimension to push it to the right spot.

(Also for what its worth, 'cause I have a feeling someone's gonna come yellin at some point, Tips & Techniques is more a place to share ideas. General Q&A is where this kind of question should probably have been posted.)

Well first things first, welcome!

So, I'm not sure exactly what you're asking, but I have two assumptions:

https://www.chiefarchitect.com/videos/watch/5488/dimensioning-basics.html this video shows in general how dimensions work in Chief Architect, the different dimension tools, how they locate objects, how to adjust how they operate, etc.

https://www.chiefarchitect.com/videos/watch/5429/positioning-and-resizing-objects-using-dimensions.html this video shows how to position and resize objects using dimensions - I THINK this is more what you're asking about.

Huh.  Would you believe that the fix is to raise the door's Floor to Bottom value to 1"?

Well, anything more than 15/16".

I had a hunch that maybe the casing or frame or threshold or .. SOMETHING was interfering with the ponywall, turns out it's just the Door in general.

Probably send that plan in so they can look at it.