ACADuser

Here is the work in progress. 4 units takes 30 seconds to download. https://3d-viewer.chiefarchitect.com/go?share=125529133640122

I have one job under construction where the GC decided to use loose laid paver over the TPO.

I was thinking the CFS would not save any money for the GC. Yes 1/4" per foot away from the street. The main roof is TPO so yes to the top of the flat. They may go fiberglass on the balconies. I'm not happy with any balcony over living areas waterproofing systems. I use similar to my attachment for fiberglass. What do you prefer in those cases? Fiberglass Versa-Deck Installation Guide.pdf

This is not a Chief question but a construction method & materials question' I need to build a decorative roof structure with the least cost but maintain durability. What materials would you use for the roof structure in the picture? The walls are stucco over frame walls. Normally I would use wood trusses & wood frame with plywood, vapor barrier, wire lath & stucco. Top flat surfaces get peel & stick underlayment for more weatherproofing. The verticle element on the right is 3 feet wide. The horizontal element is 18" thick & 6' deep. 2 additional legs 12" wide & 6' deep. I was considering a light gauge steel framing as an alternative. Maybe a sheet metal or aluminum covering ILO wood.

I think I have it boiled down to this.

Joe Florida Building code has the same language. So this would be the tightest design. 36" clear to the adjacent tread side overhangs.

Looking at the minimum width opening required for interior residential stairs I came up with 6'-6 1/4" drywall to drywall. That is given a 2" handrail, 1-1/4" balusters and a 1" side tread overhang. Does that look correct to you folks? Thanks

Some nice illistrations https://www.openjoisttriforce.com/wood-to-steel-connections-making-sure-its-done-right/ I use Hilti fasteners most of the time but have also used welded Simpson hangers ILO bearing plate.

Nice video. One thing I would add is that you can just enter +8.125 in the DBX field after the current value to get the new value. It comes in handy. In Florida, the code will not allow us to use a rise greater than 7.75" and to make matters worse the inside of the winder must be 6"

I am working on a winder this morning. If you Lock the number of treads you can drag to get the winders to the correct size. See video attached Screen_Recording_(7-25-2018_11-52-48_AM).zip

That fixed it Scott, can't believe I overlooked the 'C'. I kept trying to change the 'I' & 'G' All this time and I still struggle with foundations. Thanks

Can someone tell me what I am doing wrong with the porch foundation & floor elevation? I want a 4" drop to the floor. I started with mono foundations & changed to stem wall in an attempt to get them to build correctly. But obviously, I have something messed up. The plan was used on another house so I just saved it to a new folder & built the new plan & erased the old plan. When you look at the Ortho Overview you see the foundation build up through the floor. This and other problems plague me on the front & rear porches. So I must be doing something fundamentally wrong. Someone please enlighten me. Thanks Caracas1512.zip

Thank you, Eric, that did the trick. Thanks Doug but the roof plan was over the wall. Glenn, I was trying everything I could & that was one of my attempts before I realized it was the 1st floor wall that was the problem. Initially the roof was higher & I was trying t get an interior view with steel trusses. But the setting came back to bite me when I lowered the roof plane. Thanks all for the help.

I've done something that is preventing me from deleting / modifying the parapet wall. I lowered the roof plane and the problem appeared but I can not fix it. I thought the roof plane would clip it but not. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Test.zip

I tried similar but had issues building roof trusses. Maybe I messed a step so I'll try again later today.

Having a heck of a time getting this remodel roof to cooperate. I'm not using a 2nd floor so I can model the trusses with a slope. The existing plan is included so you can see what I am working from. Basically removing the existing flat roof & ceiling & adding parapet walls to raise the family room ceiling. Adding a porch & rear facade. The existing roof planes will be extended to the new parapet. The problem I'm having is the interaction of the walls/room below & the parapet walls drawn on the attic level. See section S3 for intended truss design Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks Belle Vista.zip Belle Vista Existing.zip

In Florida duplex require a one hour wall. My favorite is 8" concrete block. No problems with sound. Trusses can be a bit tricky at times. BXUV.U906.docx

Here in Florida, the Florida Building Code has stopped a lot of that behavior but yes each plan reviewer has their quirks. My biggest problems would be solved with a "Find & Replace". Also I jump back & forth between residential & commercial which have slightly different requirements. I do not have a separate set of notes for commercial.

Firefox here and no problems loading the model.

Ivegot an exterior wall that has no windows and needs something to dress it up as it is the front of the house. The kitchen is what the owner wants but leaves the front wall blank. Any suggestion for the exterior? https://3d-viewer.chiefarchitect.com/go?share=030360271086282

It's frustrating to me that there are so many small improvements in Chief that would make our professional lives better. As I do the tasks day after day I look for things that can streamline the process.

I see now, but the VALUE should be BLOCK and not Block106 which leads you to think it is a unique value. The dialog is misleading.

When I select a block & attempt to match the block name other blocks are selected too. Have I misunderstood the function of this tool? Wyoming 3524.zip

Tanks all. The symbol method worked well.

Man that looks nice. May I ask how you handled the wall surface overhang at the foundation? Did you use a very thick outer layer for the wall?