SNestor

Porches in CA are just way to complicated...well, for me they are.   

I would like a fast and easy way to construct a porch that has a ceiling and a roof over it.  It would have columns that sit on the slab.  The columns might be 12" square...or larger.  The columns and the column base need to be inset from the porch slab edge a couple of inches or so...and still align with the structural beam above.

I have tried a number of ways to construct this porch...and I find the simplest way seems to be to use a countertop for the slab...this way I can put an edge molding on the face of the slab that makes it look like the corners have been rounded off.  Also...I found I can manipulate this edge thickness to get the slab/countertop to extend and inch or two beyond the edge of the columns....like it would actually be constructed.  I then build the foundation and roof manually.

I found that if I build the porch with invisible walls...then define the space as a "porch"...the slab will only extend to the outside edge of the wall.  The roof baseline is constructed right above the outside edge of the wall...etc.  For some reason...CA will not build a foundation under an invisible wall.  I tried to "trick" Chief...built walls, then build a foundation...then defined the walls as invisible and boom...the foundation went away.  It's crazy....

I've attached a simple plan that shows what I mean about columns extending beyond the edge of the porch slab.  I used a deck railing to create this porch...and a column right out of the Chief catalog.  

Am I missing something...are there simpler ways of doing this?

Thanks guys/gals.  Be kind...I'm still learning.  

Porches and Porch Slab_2015_07_28.plan

Do you still have the template plan I sent to you? I set my line weights different than others, but it works for me. 0 is the smallest, 20 is the largest. There are a couple other settings that need to be adjusted so that it works out on paper.

Joey - I do have your template and it's what I'm using for the most part. It works well...but I was confused because I was reading posts on the topic and I hadn't realized that my lineweights were different because you had modified them...with the 1/700 ratio...as compared to the std CA setting of 1/100.

I think I have a grip on this...at least I think I do.

I meant you can play with the alignments differently in each ponywall to align things like your PDF and also the wall width with the airgap and you can get this:

wall section.JPG

Your adjusted plan: Pony Wall Section_M1.plan

Thanks for taking your time to help. That plan helped me. I was on the right track - but mostly due to pure luck. I don't think designing pony walls in CA is a very intuitive process. The entire interface could use some improvement.

Thanks again. I'm one step closer to being able to say "I have a a clue" when using CA.

I am surprised a bit that that section PDF meets code with house really sitting on a 4x8" concrete wall with that large brick ledge rebate...

 

Walls always align outside of  main layer to outside of main layer , unless you have changed something , though I think Masonry walls are the only exception (Check Manual) which should align to the exterior of the brick or block.

 

ponywall alignment is also controlled in the wall's  DBX not just the Wall Definition DBX

 

Pony Wall alignment settings.JPG

Yea - that section is common in Indiana...has been for decades. The 4" stem on the foundation wall can be up to 24" tall. I don't think it's good practice...but yes it's legal.

If you look at the plan I posted you should realize that I do know where and how to use the wall DBX to set the alignment of the pony wall. I messed with these setting quite a bit and eventually got the brick to align as well as the conc wall. I'm just not sure which thing I did actually caused the wall to align.

Actually the wall still does not match the section I posted...in the section the brick actuall hangs over the ledge in the conc wall. The section truly represents actual field conditions. However...getting the pony walls to align in CA is good enough. I can live with the result.

Trying to figure out line weights.

My initial thought was that the OOB default line weight was for the most part workable...and new layers would only need modest tweaking. Uhh...no.

regarding line weight -

- am I wrong...can OOB line weights work?

- if not, what's the best way to figure out what does work.

Why hasn't CA done a training video on something so important to the production of CD's?

I have searched the Forum and I've read a lot of posts concerning this topic...but none answer the question completely.

I'm sure this is "basic" knowledge for those of you out there using Chief everyday to make a living...but I only use Chief occasionally and as such I struggle at times with the simple things.

Thanks

I should have said..."which layers" you want as "main layers".  I played around with this and eventually the walls aligned.  Again...I'm not sure as to why.  

Well...I guess I figured it out.  Not sure what I did...I just kept clicking different alignments until I got the walls to align.  I guess it has something to do with what walls you want as "main layers".   I saved the wall type to my library...I don't want to do this again if I don't have to.

If anyone can give me insight as to why/how on these type pony walls I'd be thankful.

Plan attached.

Pony Wall Section.plan

Does this question really need a plan?  I mean...for us in Indianapolis...this wall section is just basic/standard...done every day on almost every home...and it should be simple to create in CA.  

I guess everything is simple if you know how to do it... 

Can someone show me how to build this wall assembly...which is constructed using 2 pony walls.  I cannot get the brick veneer to align...

The 2x6 frame wall sits on top of a 2x6 brick veneer wall....which then sits atop a foundation pony wall.  The top section of the foundation wall 4" concrete with a one inch air gap...and 3" of brick veneer...or what ever is needed to align with the brick veneer above it.

The lower section of the foundation is just an 8" concrete stem wall.  

I've had difficulty getting the brick veneer to align...I've tried everything I know...which isn't much...without luck. 

I've attached a section...If I need to attach a plan I'm sure someone will let me know.

Thanks much!

Pony Wall Section-Layout .pdf

Thanks.

I just wondered if I was doing something wrong. I know I can shift select and make changes...but I was playing around with the match properties tool and was surprised to learn that it would not work on walls.

Not a big deal...

So...is there a way to "match properties" of walls?  I've tried the match properties tool...and it doesn't seem to work on walls.  Am I doing something wrong...or is this just the way it is?

Is there a tool where you can select a wall...and then drop its properties on to other walls?

Nice debate guys...fairly civil.

Let's not forget the "hidden" cost that has been regulated upon the land we build on by our wonderful EPA...and others.  

The tyrants at the EPA haven't been asleep at the wheel.  Where I live we are now compelled to protect every stream from silt created by disturbing the earth during construction.  We must now install hundreds of LF of silt fence on every lot.  Typically these lots are not near any stream or river...but yes, the silt can travel down the storm sewer pipe to a pond...and then out of the pond to a stream...and then on to the Ohio river...then on to New Orleans...where it becomes a delta.  

Yes...the silt fence works.  The silt does stay on the lot...so, it's hard to argue the benefit...but, there is a cost.  And...of course the silt fence get's trashed.  Nor does it not add one penny of value to anyones new house. 

We also have to place straw bags around storm inlets...and design and build  ponds large enough to allow the silt to enter one end...and then have time to settle before reaching the discharge end.  It all costs money.   

Just a note for those of you who don't live in a flat prairie like we do in Indiana.  Every subdivision...no matter how large...shall have a sediment pond sized to collect storm water and then release the water down stream at the same rate it did before the land was developed.  We have thousands of ponds now in central Indiana and of course...millions of Canadian geese who never fly south.  Lovely...

The regulations never stop...people in government must continually justify their existence.  Yes...some regulations do benefit the masses...but these are rare.

Less...is more. 

So - transform/replicate does not move the line? Really?

Scott - I did see your video on moving a line in elevation...but I could not remember how it was done. Thanks.

Works for me in all versions in elevation camera

So...what is the process you use...maybe I'm doing something wrong.

I draw a line in elevation view.  Select the line.  Click "transform/replicate".  Select "Move"...set "Z" elevation to "0".  Hit enter.    Yes?

Thanks,

If you draw a line on an elevation view...can't you use transform/replicate to set the line at "zero" elevation...so, you can establish the first floor elevation line?

I have tried to do this...but no luck.  Line does not move.  So...what am I doing wrong?  Or...how do you establish elevation lines on your drawings?

Thanks...

I recently had a 2-hr "one on one" training session with Joey Martin.  I learned more in that 2 hours than I learned in a year.  

Joey is extremely knowledgable...he knows how Chief works...inside and out.  He has years of actual working experience using Chief and has become expert setting things  in Chief so that Con-docs are produced quickly and efficiently.  He makes a living using Chief...which of course is what we all would like to do.  

Joey knows how to produce great looking plans, quickly, using Chief Architect.  He is patient and explains concepts and techniques very clearly.  

Without any hesitation - I highly recommend Joey to anyone in need of Chief Architect training...from beginner to advanced.    

I've recently experienced something similar. 

I created a foundation pony wall.  I assigned this wall in defaults as my default "foundation wall".  I selected "auto build" foundation.

When I draw walls in plan...the foundation walls are created automatically...however, the walls do not align properly with the frame wall above. 

However, if I delete the foundation walls, and manually draw in the foundation walls...using the same pony wall type as is my default foundation wall, the wall aligns perfectly.  I've changed almost everything...more than once...no matter what I do the foundation pony will not align properly with the frame walls above. 

I'm sure it's a user error...but, it really shouldn't be this difficult.  In the Midwest...an 8" poured concrete foundation wall with a 4" brick ledge approximately 8" deep...is typical. 

I think this wall type should be part of the standard wall types that ships with Chief.  For us in the Midwest...it's as typical a wall type as Siding-6.

Thanks for all the help.  I think I got it.  It's not perfect however.  See attached.  Seems to be something sticking out of the roof...not sure why.  At least I was able to build the darn thing.  

Thanks again for all the comments and efforts. 

I think Bill did it for you,  see post 12.

Well...not quite.  

It seems the solution is to name the boxed out window space a "balcony".  However, the floor of this balcony is connected to the porch ceiling below.  So...if I build the box window area...it raises the porch ceiling to the bottom of the floor of the boxed out window.  

The solution to that is to use a polyline solid for the porch ceiling?  On the plan attached I used a PS for the porch roof...and porch beam.  Let me know if there is a better way to accomplish the same result.

I'm not sure if this is a glitch...or if it's newbie user error.  When I place a roof on the 2nd floor...I get flat soffits.  However, the moment I cut the roof plane and pull the roof out past the boxed window the softit slopes.  Actually, the flat soffit board at the front of the boxed window is still horizontal...but it's sticking up through the roof plane.  You can see this in the attached plan.  

Just an absolute PITA.

Boxed Out Window 2.plan

Here is my take loosely based on your PDF image.

I just built the boxed window as a room attached to

the side of the wall. That way you can add whatever

window configuration you like.

Well...that's it exactly.  So...how do I accomplish this?  

Maybe it is simple?

Attached is a PDF showing the box window detail I am trying to create.

This window is in the second floor closet.  The "floor" of the box window is about 42" or so above the floor...and the ceiling is dropped to hide the header.  The "box" extends out about 12"...and floats above the roof.

Why...after 20 years of software development is this not easy-peasy?  Chief...please fix this or at least post a video how you expect us to complete something so simple.

Box Window Example.pdf

Well...I want the boxed out window floating above the roof. The bottom needs to be roughly 18" above the roof so it can have some corbels under it.

I did a bump out on the 1st floor. you'll see how I did it. as for the underneath area , you'll need a p-solid to cover it.

Perry - Cannot open the file.  It says it's a different version than what I have.  I am running 16.4.1.20OSX

Do I need to upgrade...or are you running version 7?

Also...the reason I created the bump on the 2nd floor is because the house I am trying has a porch roof under the bumped out window.  The roof cuts off the walls....which is another issue.  

This is such a typical detail...I am really surprised how difficult it is to create.  Chief...fix this please!

 ---- Chief software engineers seem more interested in cabinet design that house design.  

it sounds like a standard Auto Box Window with a couple of brackets from the library ,   is it not working/ what is the problem?

 

M.

 

 

edit : your settings seem to work for me Steve on Auto ..I didn't add the brackets btw....  and you need to delete each side window at 12" depth

 

12x36 Box window.JPG

 

12x36 Box window.plan

Well...I tried the auto box window but I don't know how to get (2) separate windows on the front of the box.  Is this possible?

I want to create a box (or bay) type window.  The walls of the boxed out window extend out 12" or so.  I want the floor in the boxed out window to be raised up about 36".  I want the floor structure of this boxed out window to be 2x6's...and there needs to be a finish on the bottom side...such as 3/8" soffit.  The window I'm trying to build will ultimately have a couple of corbel brackets under the box out.

I've attached a basic plan to kind of show what I am trying to accomplish.  

Why don't I have a ceiling on the porch roof?  I had one...then it went away.  So...I did something...but for the life of me I can't figure out what.

Do I need to have a room under this boxed out window in order to create a finish on the underside?

Any tips or advice would be greatly appreciated. 

Box Window - second floor.plan