4hotshoez

Just noticed something about base molding that seems to control the room polygon. The normal base molding is placed on top of the finished floor. So in a tiled bath room the top of finish is 1/2" so the room molding polygon is set at 1/2" high. If I remove the base molding and ask for a room molding polygon to be drawn at a height of 0" the polygon slips under walls and messes up the polygon with complex and multiple nodes. The room molding polygon and room polygon must be set to above the floor finish for it to draw correctly. However, we have been told that this has been corrected in X7.

No answers? No questions? One problem was that the walls were not aligned from floor to floor. But the one thing that helped was to change the default "exterior" and "Interior" walls to be both the same thickness (2x6 framing) rather than changing the pony wall. After changing the walls to the same thickness, I aligned the second floor walls to the first floor again and the pony wall properly rebuilt according to the default "interior" and "exterior" wall settings. Solved my own problem.

1. So how do you do this for the building exterior? 2. Yay for X7! 3. Good to know. Some one mentioned a bug, but I would not have know otherwise, I am glad it is fixed.

Joe, I thought of doing that, but I wanted to see what I could do by raising the room molding polyline to 1" before creating it and then select the segments not needed to be molding. Then I lowered the molding polyline back to 0". Learned a lot of valuable little stuff today.

In my frustration I deleted the base molding and then did a room molding polyline, but there was no drop down option for "base mold"

That is one of the valuable things Scott said in his video.

File: https://www.dropbox.com/s/aqec8i157q6mx7s/Pintemp02.plan?dl=0 I know what the problem is (sort of), but I do not know how to fix it. I have tried. The second floor wall are pony walls and have a roof separating the upper and lower pony wall. The upper is 2x6 exterior and the lower is 2x4 interior and they need to be the same thickness. I have selected the walls and changed them. They look like they are changing but they do not.

I still am having a problem with the super-complex auto-generated pline. ArthurDent has the same file with no problems. Could I have some goofy settings that are affecting my Room molding pline?

I have not tried it yet, but will it break it if I adjust the height after it has been created and the molding moves up into a window?

It was very helpful, thanks.

This is what I click and I do not get what you get ArthurDent. When I click OK, I get what I posted at first.

Thanks Scott, I finally sat through the whole thing and learned lots! Thanks for spending the time to make that. It was entertaining too.

Joe, I think I should share the plan because I have another problem with the walls that I cannot solve, which we can get to later. https://www.dropbox.com/s/aqec8i157q6mx7s/Pintemp02.plan?dl=0

Here is what the room polygon looks like.

Some time ago I posted a similar problem and I reviewed the answer again, but I need some clarification. The molding creates a base molding in a room very nicely until there is a wall (like around the fireplace) where I do not want a base molding like the rest of the room. 1. I was told that when drawing a polyline for molding that once converted to a molding it will not be placed in front of doors or windows if the line crosses in front of the opening. But that does not seem to be true unless I am doing something wrong. 2. I was told that I could select sections (or walls) at a time and remove molding from that wall or section. I am not sure of the steps I might be missing to make this work. 3. Then I removed the base molding from the room and drew a polyline only where I wanted the base molding, because using the room polyline created a strange profile that did not follow the inside face of the room. Then I had the problem in 1. Any help in explaining how to do this? Thanks

This is a bit frustrating. As I develop interior elevations at 1/2" = 1' and cross-sections at 1/4" = 1' the line weights grow with the scale printed. How do others deal with this? It would be better if we did not need to deal with this and the line weight would remain consistent as if it were plotted with a pen plotter, where each pen is given an assigned weight and a line is assigned to a pen. Then a pen weight scheme could be developed and the hole scheme could be scaled up or down as needed. Yes, I come from Autocad, but many other cad programs make this work. Or better yet, lets abandon pen weights all together and use the Sketchup method where the outline and edge of an object is automatically given more weight by the camera view and can be toggled on/off along with other global settings.

Layout is geared towards creating single set of documents for each plan, however, I have been using it to communicate design to the client one room at a time on 8 1/2" x 11" sheets and I need to create a new layout for each room or submitted design. One question is whether I should use the same Layout for second and third generations of design for the same room. I have been sending camera 3D images direct to layout without saving them, which is the only place they are saved. Comments on this method or your own? I would like to learn.

Typically, when I have a design in progress and present to a client I rename the design with a sequential number at the end of the name: "ClientHome01" to "ClientHome02" and so on(I am currently up to 10). Then I let the server back up the trail I create. But I would like to know if there are better ways of managing a trail of changes to a design. I have read of one recommendation is to create a Zip file several times a day as the changes evolve. One problem with the method I use is Layout keeps a link of the older versions and need to be manually upgraded. Then there is the problem of designing one room of a house while another room develops its own branch of design schemes at the same time as if each room is its own project. (I have been doing detailed cabinetry design room by room as well as whole house design). Any other methods work great for other Chief users? Thank you.

All Better now.

Like you said but kept both. One for the lighting plan and one for 3D using different layers. Thanks for your help. I was close to solving it but to frustrated to know how close I was. Scott, I will be looking at your videos too.

Accually I figured that one out months ago when I created this room, but so much has changed that the walls used to create the floor where taller and got in the way of the upper window. Making them 1" seems to work. BUT now all the recessed cans are not sloped or on the vaulted ceiling. How do you deal with that? have "dummy" 3D lights and 2D plan lights?

Thanks Scott! the video was still processing when I clicked the link.

Where is the "dummy floor" button?

I have tried all of that. Making half walls leaves no header over the doors, which what I did for the shower door and wall (that works fine for that application).

The spaces shown in the image need to be open from 8 ft to the vaulted ceiling above, but the middle (shower) space needs a 12 thick ceiling over the top with open above. I had tried so many work around's that I cannot even to begin list them all. I want the ceiling to be cleaned up without the automated walls, that I do not want, cutting in. I want the lights and fan box to be in the lower ceiling, which is now a polyline solid because a soffit would not float over top of the walls. The light can be lowered but it is sloped to the vaulted ceiling rather than flat. I have tried a floor, but the sides show as open. At one point it was a two story space open to below, but I needed balloon the walls through to accept a mulled window that extends above the first floor. after changing that stuff began falling apart again. Are the walls TOO smart for our own good? Pintemp01.plan