Evolution

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  1. Steve, the video you did prior to this one, you did totally different. I couldn't make the auto dormer work this time following this vid. Haven't a clue as to why, but when I go to build roof>build dormer>auto dormer, using the reference lines then click to place the auto dormer. All I get is a gray rectangle. In the lower left hand of the screen it says Auto dormer, but all that shows is the gray rectangle I undo it, then pace it again and same thing. WHAT IN THE WORLD IS GOING ON? Why do I keep having these crazy issues happening? I had saved a copy of my latest plan I did (following the other dormer video you did) where the dormer walls weren't running up under the roof. I decided it was going to keep me awake at night until I got something to work. I opened the DBX on the dormer I had saved to this plan before I exploded it, opened it, changed the walls to 48" high (42" wide ) then set the various fascia, eave etc., same as you. Then exploded it, selected the roof, locked the ridge, Set it to curved, changed the pitch from 90 that you suggested (default 89 something) to 60 and bang. I have a dormer, and the walls run up to the soffit, NO GAP:?!?!?!?. In stead of chancing losing the effect by doing each of the remaining 4 one at a time, I shift select and marquee around the exploded dormer (I didn't think it would work) then copied and paste the next one, It pasted perfectly....WOW!. I did them all that way. So now I have dormers. Orphanos Foundation Renovations option 1.zip
  2. Steve, I've spent several hours following your video step by step, literally rewinding to a point and duplicating your moves. But, that being said, I am at a point I can't get past, and that is when I de-construct the dormer, change the roof to a barrel, the roof jumps off the top of the wall and leaves a gap, I've tried several ways to fix, but don't know what I'm doing wrong. Again to that point I don't know what I missed from your dormer video, but it's not working for me. I've posted my updated plan (from a few days ago I had already fixed several of the things you pointed out. Not sure what I missed. Can you take a look at my updated plan. BTW, its hard to tell from the photo of the existing building, but the roof over the dormer (copper roof) does overhang the sides by about 3" (I forgot to fix that in the attached dormer plan) but the barrel eave is flush with the window trim. Orphanos Foundation Renovations option 1 dormer fix by steve.zip
  3. Steve your video is great. For clarification regarding the "weird" things you picked up on: The wall you mention on 2nd floor that doesn't line up with the recess on floor 1 is on purpose. The Client is converting the second floor as a respite for the Missionaries supported by the Foundation when they are visiting the US. The other half of the 2nd floor is moving the work center to one location with a reception area at the top of the stairs, so for the reception area, he wanted to move that wall out and create more space for receiving guests or other visitors. We will demo the existing wall, open the area under the floor, scabbed 2X heavies to the existing floor joist or I-joist (not sure what we have to work with) and cantilever out with a double (triple?) rim joist we will notch the walls on either side to support the end of the new rim joist. Also, regarding the Dormers, I will save a plan and work on doing them the way you have done. You may have forgotten, but you did a great video to help me figure out how to model the end walls for the "as-built" exterior of the Federal style. Your help is FANTASTIC!!!!
  4. That was it Steve! But what's weird is, why did it suddenly show up, since the porch hasn't change since I added the roof and timber framing (he wanted added). There are a few strange things going on. Some probably to do with the Dormers. I built them manually, but without a floor in the attic (third floor was added back when you were helping me with those federal style walls on each end). So the dormer walls dropped all the way through to the second floor. I tried adding room definition to the attic (since it is on level 3) but it won't let me, so I did a poly-line shaped to the attic, made it a PL solid changed it to wood set it at what would be third floor level in order to get the Dormer walls to stop at that level. I also tried the floating dormer and I think was Shane K that got suggested it, and I did it but the message kept telling me I couldn't place in the area I was trying to place it. I kept moving it and kept getting the same results, so I went back to my idea.
  5. Continuing to work on my plan, and suddenly an object appears in the 3D render view? It hadn't showed up until today. I've been working on the lay in ceiling grid and thought it might be some grid sticking out to the wall, but when looking at a cross section it appears to be on an angle like maybe a window sill. There isn't a window in that location. I look at the 3rd floor (attic level) nothing even slightly appears to be there. Orphanos Foundation Renovations option 1 dormer fix by steve.zip
  6. Take a look at this https://www.chiefarchitect.com/.../KB-01050/manually-framing-a-dropped-ceiling.html
  7. Thanks again Mark. This is helpful info to know and I had read the new features info didn't remember seeing that, or maybe it just didn't connect with what issue I ran into. I'm working on updating now and let you know later how its working out!
  8. Thanks Mark. Not sure I can explain this question, but when you open the plan materials to edit, there are two places to adjust the offset, for material pattern and texture. I suppose I need to adjust the offset in both places? Or just texture? Like you I wouldn't bother with something like this but the renderings are important to the Client and I'd like for them to be as accurate as possible. I place my lights first as well. (EDIT) I had to adjust the Texture too before it actually moved. I think it looks close enough now. I still can't figure out how to get the grid and molding at the same exact elevation as the ceiling? It should only be a matter of setting the height of the grid at the same 9' as the ceiling? So far that hasn't worked. Maybe it is because I have two materials trying to occupy the same space?
  9. I feel dumb as a box of rocks (affirmations are not required) I'm wanting to place acoustical ceiling with wall and "T" mold in all rooms. I set the default for room / floor and edited the ceiling to have the lay in tile and grid. I selected each room, used make room poly line, and converted to a 3-D molding poly line set the molding to be the Ceiling Tile wall Mold and set the height same as my finish ceiling height is supposed to be. I then set up my "T" grid using first center lines (drawn with the "W" line tool) placing only one, converted it to a molding polyline, (using the "T" mold from my library) then selected it, set the Height to be the same as the Room 3-D MPL, did multiple copies, set my offset to 24" (as I am using 24X24 tile and LED light fixtures). The Problem? When I do a Full camera view of a room, two obvious issues show up. When setting up my lowered ceiling, (per the KB article) and edited the structure for the ceiling, I selected the ceiling tile from the library (using the 24X24 square tile). First issue the selected ceiling tile and the grid do not line up but I see no way to adjusted the material definition (offset "X" or "Z" axis) in order to line it up with the grid. I am trying to set the tile up so there are few small slivers at the walls and of course we as contractor will actually adjust the grid in the field to accommodate, but for now I need the grid for placing lights and grilles for my HVAC and Elec subs to do their estimates. Funny thing, if I set the height for the WM and "T' mold to zero it then sets on the 2nd floor. Issue two, when I use the lay in ceiling height of the lowered ceiling (it is intended to be 9') the grid and wall mold shoot above the roof. Apparently the software wants me to use the AFF starting from the first floor (not the actual 2nd floor to ceiling height of). I've toiled for quite a while adjusting the Wall mold height trying to match it with the ceiling height, then just open the "T" and set it to the same height but there must be an easier way? I found a thread or two addressing lay in ceiling etc., but as fait would have it they don't actually address my dilemma. I watched the video on doing ceiling grid and thought I had followed it well? Surely I don't have to use the 24X24 tile from the library and place each one? I thought about (haven't tried it) doing a Rectangular cad, converting it to a PL solid, setting it to the ceiling tile from the library, and do the multi-copy as I did the grid? That too seems like a lot of extra work that is not needed? Perhaps those of you that actually model lay in ceiling for your commercial projects can offer simpler methods to achieve what I am trying to achieve? I tried to post the updated plan without zipping, but the forum message indicated the file was too large. I am a nit wit (again no affirmations are necessary) when it comes to reducing the file size without zipping it? (EFIT) well I tried making a poly line solid and placing it in the grid etc but that didn’t work either.
  10. When you open the room (Screened Porch) Specifications, and go to the structure tab and open the edit floor finish you can set the exact definition of the make up of the floor. by the way, you don't have to use the cushion under the floor for an out door room, and to remove it you just delete from the materials definition menu while the edit menu is open.
  11. Zack, your slab thickness sounds extreme, usually a 4" to 6" with a turn-down (most cases you do not need a footing as such for something like this but depends on your area codes.) Once you model the room (as in any other build) you open the room dbx go to the structure tab, and drop down to floor finish, and edit it there to add any type of flooring you wish. Hopefully this answers your question?
  12. Jennifer, if it would help, you can open your window DBX select your exterior molding (from the library or make one) then select sill on exterior, which will automatically make your exterior casing on 3 sides. Then go to the sill, select a different one from the Library, or making a molding profile you want to use and save it in your user library, and replace the sill with your custom one, you can also select the material (if your using stone from the library or if you imported or made a new material for the stone, change the sill material to stone). I'm by no means an expert with the software, but just thought this idea might help?
  13. I love to watch the "Experts" videos. I know it all comes with time / practice and using CA..... but you guy's make it look like it is so easy! +1 for Michael & Rene for sure!
  14. Issue in the first method is using a wall type (I set up as a 8" planter wall of brick to match building) caused a gap in the floor of the building. I already moved past that by using Retaining walls. Rene, when I attempted to post the plan without zipping the message was the file was too large, instead of figuring out what to turn off etc., I just zipped it. JT- I tried your suggestion and it worked fine!!!
  15. On the current project modeling the as-built exterior, there are several raised planting beds, with different top of wall, elevations. One on each side of the porch same height as the porch I built them with walls but had to build them on the foundation level, for them to show correctly on level one. I attempted to do the others the same way (using the wall type I created for the porch) but When they butt to the building walls, it causes the building walls to separate horizontally and the only way to repair the gap is to pull the walls away. So I deleted the set of lower raised beds built with walls, and used the straight terrain retaining wall tool (the one that lets the wall set on the terrain) in stead, so I could draw each of the other two beds (one is 42" high, the one between it and the porch is only 32" high) and not affect the building walls or porch. This worked fine as they do not cause the building walls to separate, however; when I draw the 32" high retaining wall between the 42" high retaining wall on the left, and the Porch, on the right; the wall height jumps up from 32" to match the 42" height of the other Raise bed on the left. The 32" high wall isn't affect by the Raised bed at the porch on the right, (I guess because I didn't draw the porch flower bed with retaining walls). What is the best way to model raise beds that have differing top of wall heights and yet connect to each other? I have done the search for raised beds, terrain features etc. Orphanos Foundation Renovations option 2.zip
  16. I continue working on the exterior renovations of the Non Profit Project, and the client sent some photo's of ideas he wants me to incorporate into the exterior remodel (while at the same time avoiding a lot of demolition of exiting planters, porch, steps and sidewalk). He wants a sort of "French-country" look. Not completely possible of course without really changing the "federal style" of the building exterior. I have started on the porch, I think the roof needs a 12-12 pitch to look right? I plan to use P-solids for all the timber frame features. The column bases may be a challenge (but I think I know what to do with them if I can't find something in the library). I had to model the planters on the foundation level and use poly lines to model the fill of them. I did a Copy>transform replicate> about the center of the entry door to get them placed. The plants are just place holders for now. I have additional planters (on each corner of the front they show in the Street view of the existing office building). They will be wider and lower elevations than the porch planters, and then another planter (at an even lower elevation) runs in between them and the porch planters. Since I had to draw the porch planters on the foundation level to get them to work correctly, I will do the same for the others. I'll have to experiment with the plantings to see if that will help give it more of a French-country feel. In order to build the porch I used invisible railing walls. I had to remove the large window (existing arch type). I did a new wall dbx for the wall above the porch roof, (used crème Board and Batten from the Library) but that is not showing up even though I made a copy of one of my wall types, named it for the B&B, and set the material definitions for the new wall type. Am I even going in the right direction or am I too dumb to be helped? Orphanos Foundation Renovations option 1.zip
  17. So, while I'm sure this is all wrong, I continue to experiment with my dormer issue. I was able to place all five, by using the first one I copied the walls from the second floor (again, the walls for the manual dormer where drawn on floor 2 because that's where the KB said draw them. I then did a transform replicate for each additional dormer by copying (shift drag marque) around the dormer on the third floor, and placing them. Also, I couldn't figure out how to get the dormer wall with the window in it, up into the arch of the eave so I just dragged it until it fit. I had to adjust the radius (Pitch as it is called) in the Curved Roof DBX until the two radius' matched. I'd rather have points for using the correct tools the correct way, but after several hours of attempting doing it the right way, I did as Ole Frank Sinatra sang...…………."my way" Which I'm pretty sure is probably the wrong way. Now to try and figure out how to joint the curved roof of each dormer with the main roof?!?!?
  18. Shane, the walls on the 3RD floor are required to build the "Federal Style" walls you see on each end (but that's another thread that I had a bunch of help from especially Steve Nestor) so I won't be deleting them. Also I didn't use auto dormer or floating dormer I used the Manual dormer tool (we get scolded by the guru's when we don't attempt at least to use the KB's and Vids) in the KB-00449 as well as the Vid. I created the holes in the roof (again Per the KB) based on using the Sky light tool. I couldn't figure your plan out so I continued working on mine and here is where I am at this point. (Not that I'll get any kudo or points) but I copied my walls from floor 2 and did a cntrl+Alt+V on the third floor. Then I dragged the walls to the height I needed, then I placed a roof plane (on the third floor) opened it zero'd out the pitch, locked the ridge, experimented with the pitch (selected curved roof). Now my issue is closing the gable on the curved eve, as well as the window on the existing Dormers have radius'd tops and are tight up into the eave. I'll tackle that if I ever figure out how to get a radius on top of the eave wall. And I been attempting to watch the Vid's and read the KB on joining a curved roof plane to a pitched roof. If I ever figure these things out then I'll gong on to the other remaining dormers. Again, thanks for trying to help me. Orphanos Foundation Renovations option 1.zip
  19. Looks good Rene. One thing I (haven't fixed yet) noticed, are the lights are not centered in the grid (although I placed them in the 2X2 grid opening), but I know that has nothing to do with the over-all affect?
  20. Shane, your response is pretty cut-n-dry, however; I am trying to clean up the dormers, thus the reason I posted this thread, Knowing how to clean them up is the issue. Perhaps you missed the issue I described, which is the walls are not generating. Your fix is nice (though the end result is not what I am after) but when I open your plan, first it appears that the sky light holes are drawn to the inside of the walls created to outline the dormer roof hole? Does that make a difference? I tried that earlier and the walls still did not generate. but according to the KB I used the Skylight hole it appears to be to the outside perimeter of the walls which is the way I've drawn it. Now the KB is apparently for some other version of CA (as far as I can determine not X11) since the tools in the KB are not the same as mine in X11; but I did follow it. Also, I watched a Training video (which again the only one I could find is for X8, not X11) and the tools and use of same, aren't the same from X8 to X11, so I followed it as close as possible but still get the same results. The walls of the Dormers will not generate the way they are said to do in both the KB and Training Vid? I did a cross section camera and attempted pull the walls up through the roof, however; even though the walls show in the floor plan ( I used exterior walls per the Knowledge Base KB - 00449) they do not show in the cross section for me to drag them up. But, thanks for your help anyway! I still gave you a point (P:S) I am still researching and experimenting attempting to find the solution on my own, in fact I've wasted the last hour and half doing so. (EDIT) I keep trying to select your walls on the second floor, but I can't select them to open the dbx? It appears the dormer walls are on the third floor (attic) but I built mine on the second floor per the KB and Training Vid? They show up in blue on the third floor, but I can't select them there either? I haven't attempted that in my plan yet just wondering did you draw them on the second floor, and if that is the reason my walls are not generating through the opening?
  21. Working on the NPF project (now the exterior) modeling the as-built it has 5 single dormers with barrel roofs. I didn't have any problem building the dormer walls and roof openings, and I followed the KB 0049 ( I think to the "T") but the walls will not generate through the roof openings. Not having the expertise of each of you, all I've known to do is look for similar threads on CT, as usual my search didn't yield anything helpful. Everything seemed to be going too easy so I figured I'm missing a step somewhere. I did uncheck make a shaft as these dormers are in the attic and have no actual walls except those above the roof. Help appreciated. Orphanos Foundation Renovations option 1.zip
  22. Mark your work is certainly the look that I wanted. I will take a look at the plan file and see If I can pick up on the settings etc., you used. I know my use of too many (on purpose) lights, turned up too high, was not the answer; it was an attempt to see if it produced any (tile) color change from the gray look I had to the white look yours produced. As for the suggestions regarding the micro wave (it was a place holder for now) I plan on doing an exhaust hood over the range. Not having the landing (min 12") I will move the range over and add a cabinet between the range and the tall cabinet. As far as to why I raised the wall cabinet over the range is something the builders / designers do in this area. The client wants a "French County Style for the cabinets and exhaust hood, so I've got to come back and make some changes to the cabinet anyway. Thanks everyone.
  23. Took a little time off for the 4th. Turned the tablet on and the curious mouse issues have ceased (at least for now). I am not sure what caused it in the first place but I'm pretty sure it wasn't from over-heating as each day I turned it off and left it off over-night, and it would persist first thing the next day upon start up. So we will see for now if it comes back? Thanks everyone for all the ideas and thoughts. It remains a mystery to me.