JJohnson

9 minutes ago, HumbleChief said:

Curious, I see it my program updates but no announcement and no threads here regarding same? Anyone update yet?

 

Or am I on an older Beta release? Build: 20.0.3.43x64 and the latest looks like 20.1.0.43 dated 2/14/2018.

 

Curious as to anyone's experience

 

Thanks

I also have 20.0.3.43x64.  When I opened the program yesterday, I was asked If I wanted to install the latest update, but declined.

So yes, there is an update (or at least I was offered one) dated 02_14

Turn on Active Layer Display Options, and make sure the Terrain Perimeter

line has a red cross for used, and a check mark for displayed.

1 hour ago, Kbird1 said:

 

Never seem to have much luck with the Join 2 lines Tool , (if the segments are connected already) , it's about as frustrating as trying to drag a Node to the nearest (reshape) Diamond and drop it right on it....

 

M.

If you have Object Snaps turned on, a little red X will appear when you are close enough to the drop point to land on it.

It's pretty small but I find it helpful.

Chief already has a video.

Thanks, that saves a step 

Why use a doorway at all ?  Just break the low wall and pull it back to create opening.

6 hours ago, jocady2 said:

Can anyone recommend procedure and (possibly an engineer) that could check my work and stamp my drawings for permitting?

Also try the Seeking Services forum here.

Seeking Services

Kal could also, break the wall in plan view, and pull the left section up in cross section/elevation view

to achieve the look

3 hours ago, Alaskan_Son said:

I think I've posted this tip for you a few times Alan...

 

1. Click once as usual to start your operation (draw, move, resize, etc.).  This can be using any mouse button as necessary.
2. Drag your item outside the drawing window and without letting go of your original mouse button, click once on one of your unused mouse buttons.
3. Let go out of your original mouse button.  You can now return to the drawing area and pan and zoom as usual.  Just click again to finish the operation. 

NOTE:  During step 2 it is best to click once using either your center mouse wheel or your left mouse button.  If you use your right mouse button and you aren't completely outside Chief's window you may get a little popup menu.  If you DO get the menu just move your mouse outside the menu box but still outside the drawing area and left click to get rid of it.

 

It might be a bit unusual but if you take a few minutes to get used to it, I think you'll be happy you did.

I've always used the "hold left button and use second finger to scroll out then in to get to second snap position" and have 

become good at doing it, but your suggestion is better, thanks !

Hardly used

Fresh Untitled 1.plan

9 hours ago, rashluck said:

Can Chief Architect be use for building villas?

If you mean a a large and luxurious country residence, Chief can absolutely do it.

It may come down to the power of your computer as to weather or not it can do (handle) big 

highly decorated designs.

On 11/28/2017 at 10:27 AM, BenPalmer said:

when ready to produce final docs, just turn off the auto refresh and delete the ones you don't want.  Or don't use auto and draw what you want manually.

How about, change auto dimensions color to red, select the ones you wish to keep, move them to manual dimensions layer and

then turn off auto dimensions  

(Drawing before turning off auto dim.s)

Randy, if you mean is there a setting for auto dims that will limit the number of dimension strings it produces, I do not think so.  You have to delete the ones you do not need.  Especially with interior dims, when there is a line for every wall in every room, plus openings etc.

Look on page 406 of this old "Network Edition" of PC magazine from 1994.  3D Home Architect was Chief's early consumer version.

I bought my copy at WalMart for 10$$  

PC Magazine 1994

From our residential construction guide for the county.

NOTE that your roofing material may ask for a minimum venting, or you

can void warranty

On 7/17/2017 at 1:11 PM, Ridge_Runner said:

I finally mastered this one, but the "high amplitude arcs" has always bugged me; have to adjust every one of them manually. I sure wish there was a default setting where we could limit that, especially on short connections - (think switch to outside porch light or switch to vanity light in small bath).

With electrical connections drawn and left as generated, a cad line (red) drawn between the switch and fixture, and the distance measured from mid line to mid arc, with a point to point dimension, you can see they are all almost the same.

If they can program that in, could not they program them to be something like, never more that 1/3 switch to fixture length ?

I am clueless when it comes to writing code, but that be a time saver.

On 11/6/2017 at 6:47 PM, Kelly_K said:

I have lived with this for years, on my production drawings (plans that are constantly being reworked for new lots), as I have formally stated. 

Thanks for bringing it up.  I think I will submit a plan to tech support to remind them. 

I was wondering if this happens if you lock the Electrical, and Electrical Connections layers when your plan is finished and sent to layout.

Will a locked layer change on you, on it's own ?

I attach this  note to proposals to do as-built drawings.

( I got most of it from home inspection proposals.)

Feel free to copy and use if needed.

NOTE - As Built Plan Limitations

As built drawings are limited to observable conditions.

All are subject to verification in the field. 

Among things that limit observation are: interiors of finished rooms, floors under covering, interior of hollow walls, space between floor and ceiling or soffits, structural segments to which there is no access without defacing or tearing out lumber/insulation/masonry or finished work, painted surfaces and built in cabinetry.

Precut studs in this part of Northern CA are 92 1/4.

This results in a wall frame height of 96 3/4 ( the actual measurement will usually be

@ 1/8 in over due to imperfections in plates etc.)

Allows for 5/8 in drywall ceiling with no wall board trimming.

On a slab, an 8 ft piece of sheathing, held 1/2 in. up from the bottom

of the bottom plate, just makes to within 1/4 in of the top of top half of doubled top plates.

To me, a longer, even just a little longer, precut stud could mean buying 9 ft sheathing and trimming it all down.

On 6/29/2017 at 5:31 PM, mydog8it said:

I was going to get this one: https://www.asus.com/us/Laptops/ROG-G752VS/  but I decided to try out this one at half the price: https://www.asus.com/us/Laptops/ROG-GL553VD/  with 32g ram.

So far I'm pretty happy with it, especially for the price. No overheating, no lag when viewing really big renderings, and overall pretty fast. I haven't raytraced yet though.  My biggest complaint so far is the case is a little cheap and plastic-y feeling... and I need to plug in a bigger monitor for doing actual work. 

Consider a deck top for actual work.

I am happy with the one I recently purchased, see in signature

On 6/26/2017 at 2:39 PM, creeter said:

i was wondering how to show dimension line labels automatically in x8. when i click on a dimension it shows wall line "1" and "2" but i need to specify what the numbers are or what the letters are and  make them stay on the plan for plotting. can someone help me please

Thank in advance

Bruce

After you click on the dimension, and it shows the numbers, which they do when selected, you need to choose "Open Object", then

you have a Dialogue Box, where you go to "Segments", and there, you may add text to the length shown, in the segment,  or you may choose other segments, assuming you have more than one.  That is the purpose of the numbers, they will not stay when you un-select the line.

A thread on this subject

Surfaces contained within Architectural Blocks or Symbols are not directly accessible for processing, they must be unpacked in some manner first. From my what I can determine this takes 3-4 times the processing than if they were not in an Architectural Block or Symbol. This gets even worse when these are nested together, blocks within blocks

This is interesting.  On my computer, a perspective overview of 70 chandeliers takes 3 sec., but if I select and block those same 70 ch.s it takes 7 sec.

I think I will go back to my detail pages, which slow down work in layout views, and see what has been sent in as blocks and perhaps

some undoing blocks in in order.

28 minutes ago, Michael_Lewis said:

First time poster so take it easy lol. I have come to CA from AutoCAD (roughly 20 years) and have only been using CA for about a month. I have numerous plans partially done. I am having several different problems on different projects. In this instance I am having a problem getting my auto dims to work properly. I have read as much as I can and have been watching all of ya'lls videos pretty much non stop. Do I just need to do manual dims instead of auto? I have included the plan in a zip file. I can only imagine all of the things wrong with my plans and still have so many questions but can start here so I can at least get a construction set out the door.

3500.zip

You can also use auto dimensions, and then 'weed out' what you do not want.

Auto interior dims. will put one for each wall in every room, which you will not usually need, and so on.

2 hours ago, JamieMiller said:

I have been trying to get rid of this gap between the floors in the 3D view. I'm sure it's something simple that I'm missing. Please help.

 

Thanks,

Jamie

After you build the floor framing, the gap will fill.

On 4/4/2017 at 6:44 PM, Northriver said:

JJ. There is a sun belt that runs from Sequim to the northern part of Whidbey Island. The San Juan Islands are nice but have lost that "getaway" feeling about 20 years ago. I like the Canadian Islands better and we spent many summers cruising up the inside passage. We spent quite a few nights on the boat in Desolation sound at a spot called Prideaux Haven. Its a provincial park in BC. The place is pristine and unspoiled. The water is can get up the mid seventy degrees. The Nordstrom family use to park their Yacht up there in the summer time. When the Kids were young we took our boat up the inside passage to Alaska. Glacier Bay, Chichagof Island, Baranof Island and Prince of Wales Island were just a few of the many stops we made. We spent the night at a place called Hydaburg on Prince of Wales Island where their is a small Indian Village. They hand carve Totem Poles that are shipped all over the world ( I caught my largest ling cod of about 80 pounds of the south east corner of this Island) You need to get out of California and visit some of these places up north. Maybe Alaska Son can give you grand tour of SE Alaska. If you are ever up this way PM me and I will set up a fishing trip for you and your brother.

 

So in California, you have to put foam insulation on the outside wall of new homes?

Thanks for the invite, wish I come up tomorrow........

And thanks for volunteering Alaskan Son for guiding services, I will be giving him a call soon, however

I may have been skinning crab in Kodiak, before he was born   

(summers of '68 and '69)