JJohnson

5 hours ago, DRAWZILLA said:

I have been able to get around doing this using the computer method, by trading off energy requirements for different areas. A little more here , a little less there, I guess it depends on your climate zone.

 

In my case, we want open or vaulted ceilings, which restricts the potential for insulating the attic, or having a so called "high performance" attic.

So the trade off, as you note, is "high performance" wall insulating system, 1" ridged form "cladding".

 

Have not had to go to triple glazing yet.

 

We are on a slab so not had to worry with floor assembly showing correctly thankful for that.

On 3/31/2017 at 2:12 PM, Northriver said:

Its called a thermo-break. In areas where it gets extremely cold. I would like to just get out of the rain for JUST ONE FRIIGGIN DAY.

 

Lived on Maui for 2 years in a home with screens over the openings that had no windows. The walls were exposed studs and had ship lap for siding. Never got cold and when it got hot just walked out the front door for a swim. First time I ever slept in a bed with no sheet or blanket. Life was much simpler back then. Not a lot of money but no pains.

 

I had a cousin up there on one of the islands, but never got to visit.  I read that Port Townsend has less annual rainfall than here, due to the

rain shadow from the mountains on the Olympic Peninsula, but must be pretty cloudy there though.

 

2016 energy code requirements are causing some designers to show ridged foam "cladding" on the outside of structures here in CA.

 

I'll be doing my first in a few weeks.  Was going to be EIFS until we found out about the insurance issues.  Now will be wood siding finish over foam, which, I prefer anyway.

2 hours ago, dshall said:

 

Yeah,  I thought about that, but I do not see any insulating sheets over the studs so I did not think it was relevant.  No worries,  we all do things a little different.

 

Take a closer look, I see 1/2 ridged on the walls.

 

Anyhoo, I am starting to see it here in NorCal  brrrrr 

6 hours ago, dshall said:

Jeez,  wouldn't it be easier to put the insulation in the floor system just inside the rim joist.  Doesn't that give you the insulation you want and at the same time make it easier to build?

 

Depending on where they are building, possibly Jeez has  to "clad" the outside walls with the insulating sheets that bridge over

all framing members.  

 

Make the foam the first main layer for each wall in wall layers define dialogue

 

A little strange structurally, kind of a cantilever.

3 hours ago, calgaryhomes said:

For work I need to use many details and notations that in autoCAD were kept on a separate plan and imported into the working drawing as needed.  However this has become a slow process to do in Chief and wanted to know if there is a workaround to this issue.  I have attached a sample of one of the CAD pages i created in Chief to see if others get the same slow reaction to zoom and pans.

Could this be a "purge" issue?  I used to purge my autoCAD files by writing purge in the task bar, but how is this done in Chief?

Untitled 1.zip

 

That is a big file.  Fill window takes about 3 seconds, and zoom in by mouse wheel about 1 second per wheel click, marquee zoom about 1 second, but I do have a new computer (see signature screen shot)

 

Detail pages, and CalGreen notation pages would slow my old unit down too much, so I had two plan sets, one for drawings and one for details

etc.

It might be opening to the last saved view, although you did say

you saved while zoomed out

 

 

12 minutes ago, dshall said:

 

 

BTW,  I think this is such a stupid note  if the builder/plumber do to understand this,  it is time for a new builder/plumber.

 

This is how nutty the permit processing has got.  Somehow for the last 150  years,  the builder/plumber understood there was a slope required.  

 

I  wish that Donald Trump had lost the election and would of become head of the plan check dept. in san diego.  For every new regulation,  get rid of two regulations.

 

I am not picking on you Jere,  it's just that this is common knowledge for anybody that puts in plumbing. In fact I just wasted 4 minutes of my day responding to this.....  a sure sign of how much a dim wit I am.

 

I was talking to P. this past weekend and I was telling him I am ready to retire from the day to day drudgery of this business.  

 

I spend more time  noting that the  stair railing needs to be blah blah blah instead of investing my time in the design of the home.

 

Justs venting guys,  please ignore this rant.

 

 

I'm working on another one so you can draw roofs flat and just add a note that they are supposed to slope.

 

FYI, the note is from a plan set designed for build it your self clients, by a back yard cottage designer.

There was even more to it, including a drawing of a vent fitting on a horizontal run needing to be at a 45 or greater

degree take off.

If your are really going to draw the drains, you may want to 

throw in a note like this one.  

 

 

NOTE: FOR GRAPHICAL CLARITY,  SLOPES ON WASTE LINES AND VENTS
ARE NOT SHOWN. BUILDER SHOULD NOTE THAT GRAVITY WASTE 
AND VENT LINES SHALL MAINTAIN NO LESS THAN 1/4" / FT SLOPE.

IN ADDITION VENT FITTING CONNECTIONS SHALL RISE AT A SLOPE
OF NO LESS THAN 45deg FROM WASTE LINES.

1 hour ago, DRAWZILLA said:

Greg, what "A35, not sure where I mentioned it in this thread.

 

I saw one in your detail of the railing wall.

In Sonoma Ca, it looks like a garage may count or not, depending on weather it is detached, or not.

Should Joe add detached garage to the list ?

 

1 hour ago, DRAWZILLA said:

........................................... I also have the x? icon on the taskbar, right click on that to open any plan or layout, both directly.

 

Nice tip, thanks.

I do not believe you need to uninstall and then reinstall the program, just rename toolbars folder

something like old toolbars, then close and reopen the program to get default tool bars back.

I recently purchased this one

  Only two left

47 minutes ago, Griffin said:

Just amazing. That drone will come in handy when you want to get a bag of chips delivered from the pantry.

7 hours ago, jcaffee said:

Jere...

http://www.dupont.com/products-and-services/construction-materials/building-envelope-systems/brands/water-barrier-systems/products/rainvent-batten-furring-strips.html

 

 

 

Thank you for the link.  I had not heard of this, but I can see it being a plus in rainy climates.

 

Should have been called 'rain vent' rather than 'rain screen' I guess.

 

We do not see it here in Nor California, as we have an extended dry season, and

things can  dry out nicely.

 

The rain free early fall here lets wine grapes avoid the dreaded cluster rot that

will set in when bunches get wet.   . .. .. 

6 hours ago, JECORMIER said:

Hey everyone-

 

I've been wondering how to add 1x4 p.t. (3/4"x3 1/2") @16" o.c. vertical furr strips as a layer to my exterior walls to provide a rain screen under my hardie board siding. I don't know exactly how to set up the layer with individual strips at 16" o.c.. When I set up the layer it gives me the option of material and thickness but only as a continuous sheathing, not 1x4 vertical strips. I'm sure someone has done this and I'm just missing the obvious answer.  See photo for example...

 

Thanks for your help in advance!!!

 

J

 

 

JE,

I have not seen that before.  How does that function as a 'rain screen' ?

On 12/7/2016 at 6:30 PM, Greg_NY61 said:

Its called Lattice Creator...and there is another one called Lattice-izer this one is good to make custom lattice, custom railing panels, etc.

 

Nice tools, thanks a bunch.

Check this out

 

Article in San Francisco newspaper

 

I thought the excerpt below to be interesting

 

The California Department of Housing and Community Development plans to issue guidance on the law in a week or two

 

and

 

About two-thirds of California’s cities and counties have their own second-unit ordinances, but the state law is more permissive than most of them. Jurisdictions that have not adopted or amended a local ordinance that complies with the new state law by Jan. 1 will have to follow the state law until they approve a compliant one

 

 

 

Or just read this,

New California housing laws make granny units easier to build

By Kathleen Pender

December 3, 2016

California homeowners should find it easier and cheaper to build a second unit on their property, or turn an illegal unit into a legal one, thanks to two laws that take effect Jan. 1.

The laws, along with a third that took effect in September, will ease or eliminate the off-street parking requirements and often-enormous utility-hookup fees that homeowners face when they create a second dwelling, often called an in-law or granny unit.

One set of rules will apply if the second unit is created within an existing space — such as a bedroom, basement, attic or garage. Another set will apply if the new unit, whether attached or detached, adds square footage outside or on top of existing structures.

Homeowners will still have to comply with local building codes, find a contractor and arrange financing. Sylvia Krug, who is looking to convert bedrooms in her Novato home into a rental unit, said she interviewed three contractors “and they all have yearlong waiting lists.”

The new laws won’t come close to filling the Bay Area’s housing needs. But they could create options for middle-income renters who don’t qualify for below-market-rate housing and can’t afford a market-rate apartment. They also could help homeowners meet their mortgage payments, seniors stay in their homes with an on-site caregiver, and multigenerational families live together, but not too together.

Thelaws that take effect Jan. 1 — AB2299 and SB1069 — amend the state law governing second units and rename them “accessory dwelling units.”

About two-thirds of California’s cities and counties have their own second-unit ordinances, but the state law is more permissive than most of them. Jurisdictions that have not adopted or amended a local ordinance that complies with the new state law by Jan. 1 will have to follow the state law until they approve a compliant one.

Under the new law, second units are allowed on any lot with a single-family home, but local ordinances can say where they will or won’t be permitted based on factors such as water and sewer services, traffic flow and public safety.

The amended law will allow accessory units up to 1,200 square feet, but allows jurisdictions to impose lower limits and establish standards governing height, setback, lot coverage, landscaping and architectural review.

The state law does not prevent homeowners from renting out the second unit to short-term guests or require them to live in one of the units. But local jurisdictions can require one of the structures to be owner-occupied and regulate rentals of less than 30 days, as San Francisco does.

 

Photo: Scott Strazzante, The Chronicle

Toni Gardner's grandchildren, Jonah, 5, and Amelia, 2, play in the small house that Gardner had built in the backyard of her residence near Santa Cruz.

When a homeowner submits a second-unit application that meets state and local requirements, the local jurisdiction must approve it within 120 days, without the need to notify neighbors.

The California Department of Housing and Community Development plans to issue guidance on the law in a week or two. “We are in a housing crisis,” said Paul McDougall, the department’s housing policy manager. “Local governments should embrace this as a way to create” accessory dwelling units.

For most homeowners, the bill will remove a big impediment to second-unit creation: the need to create off-street parking.

For units created within an existing space, cities and counties cannot require any additional parking.

For units outside that space, cities can require one additional parking space per bedroom created. However, this requirement is waived if the home is within one-half mile of public transit, within a block of a car-share vehicle, in an architecturally and historically significant district, or if on-street parking permits are required but not offered to the second-unit occupant.

If new parking is required, it generally can be provided as tandem parking on an existing driveway or in setback areas (the space between your home and property line that is supposed to be empty), unless this would not be feasible based on topography or safety considerations.

The law also will let homeowners create a second unit within existing space, such as a garage, that sits within a setback area.

The other big bonus is the reduction or elimination of certain fees. Today, some water and sewer districts levy the same hookup fees on tiny second units that they charge on a full-fledged home. These fees can reach into the tens of thousands of dollars.

In the future, on second units built within existing space, utilities cannot require the homeowner to install a new or separate utility connection, nor can they impose a connection fee or capacity charge.

For units outside existing space, they can require a new or separate connection, and can charge a connection fee or capacity charge, but it must be “proportionate to the burden” of the second unit based on its size or number of plumbing fixtures.

San Jose has updated its zoning code to adopt the mandatory provisions of the new state law. “We had already started in the direction of making it easier to build secondary dwellings,” said Jenny Nusbaum, San Jose’s supervising planner. “We wanted to update our code before the the state law kicked in so we could, as much as possible, maintain local control.”

Among other things, San Jose reduced the minimum lot size needed to build a second unit from 6,000 square feet for attached and 8,000 square feet for detached to 5,445 feet for either type.

 

8 hours ago, Kenoeightspot said:

Change thickness then add to lib.

 

Thanks, there is a 24x24 in there I can go with using multicopy

to make the sizes I need.

 

 

 

 

 

5 hours ago, Greg_NY61 said:

Here is one I made a while back, 4'x8', 1 1/2" thick 1 1/2" opening. If you need I can reduce it to 3/4 thick or make you any size you want... I have a lattice plugin tool.

Lattice.calibz

 

 

Thanks for the symbols !  What is your lattice plug in tool ?

We have lots in core and bonus, but do we have a plain 48" x 96", horizontal / vertical

heavy duty *  panel like the ones you can get at the lumber yard here in CA ?

 

(* they are stronger, a little thicker slats )

 

 

15 hours ago, Chopsaw said:

JJ,  This may be the best solution for now, to use a panel and draw a psolid top rail.

JJ Railing Panel Filler.calibz

 

Cool, thank for the symbol !

2 hours ago, Dermot said:

In X9, you will be able to include top and bottom rails with panel symbols.  This should make creating this style of railing a bit easier.

 

Very good news !

7 hours ago, Chopsaw said:

Yes Graeme's method works fine.          

 

P.S. If you make a baluster into a millwork symbol then you can auto apply it in the Railing DBX.

 

But what about the gap in the top rail at the corners,  I may have it now, changed the top rail to

2x4 on edge at 40.5", checked post to beam, made beam 2 x 6, and dragged that down to 42"

 

Now I have what a carpenter would more likely build in my opinion.

 

I think adding the balusters to the library and auto placing may not face mount them on the

2x4 rails like I need to.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Is there any way to get newels to go all the way to the bottom of the top half

of the top rail, or am I stuck with adding 4x4 posts.

 

I understand why the program is drawing this way.

 

Help yourself to the baluster, and top rail molding if wanted

 

 

DecKorators Baroque Balusters.plan