Jay_on_Cape

It looks like it was originally drawn in CA.

George is in South Yarmouth. He's a good guy. I've done work for him in the past for whole house design.

I'm up the road from you. What do you have?

You should probably specify contract / hourly, remote in area / out of area etc. In this area CA users are few and far between.

Holy vent pipe Batman! Are there any bedrooms in that house or just bathrooms?? One important fact to keep in mind is that window above. You may not get enough slope in the shed roof to be able to use shingles in which case you'll have to use a rubber / TPO etc. roof. It may work but there needs to be a whole lot more info before you can receive legitimate suggestions.

I've been using the new online Forte. I can't seem to find the cut angle at end of beam (for rafter) in it. I wonder if they missed it? It used to be in the hole tab in BC.

In MA they still let you get away with 8.25"..... See page 16. We use the 2015 IRC in MA and anything they want changed they address it in their codebook with corresponding code number to pertinent IRC # (or IBC if commercial). https://www.mass.gov/files/documents/2018/06/08/Chapter 3 Building Planning Amendments.pdf

What do you use for steel I-beam design? Rams? Attached are a couple recent I-joist plans with beam all in accurate profile framing members.

In MA it's 8.25" rise and 10" finished run. So they cut the stringers to 9" and with the overhang it's 10". With the stud height / floor joist depth most residential stairs are usually in the 7 7/8" - 8 1/8" range. If you add another tread it will bring it down to 7 5/8" or so. With all the antique homes here it's not unusual to go into a home with 8"-9" rises or more. Commercial of course is quite a bit different.

I use the autobuild joist option to frame joists just to get the rimboard. I set the o.c. spacing to 96" as you can't set it any higher. I then delete all joists and place them where I want from a starting point I want (also use the framing reference marker). If you get all of the joists / beams in the correct spot there is less to detail. Roof rafters and roof trusses almost always have to be detailed in a cad detail. I don't use live cameras for my cross sections. I know I'll get heat for that but usually the people bringing the heat have no idea how to frame or how it will be framed in the field.......... I was an EWP designer for 4 years under a structural engineer and back then (1999) I actually used CA version 8 for doing the structural floor plans for a major lumber yard. BC Framer wasn't quite up to snuff at that point. It can be done, I do it every day but I'm sure there are easier ways. I size all my beams / joists / rafters as I'm working on the framing plans to make sure that the cross sections are accurate. At present I use Strucalc for steel and Forte for wood. I was a long time user of Boise Calc but they switched over to an online only version in January and ...........it wasn't smooth (insert extreme sarcasm / understatement here).....

Thanks Solver!!!! I did finally found it after a couple hours of searching. I was too intent on doing it in the dbx. I didn't realize you had to do it in 3d.

Hello All, I've searched and I can't seem to find the obvious. How does one use a manufacturer color AND texture. For example how does one use the Mastic Home Exteriors texture (Board and Batten) and assign one of the colors to it? I can do one or another but not both. Thank you in advance. As you can tell I usually do construction documents and rarely bother with renders.

Preach it brother, preach it!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Or for burying beams so they don't hang down. Although careful or you'll cut off access for pipes / drains.