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Posts posted by glennw
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2 hours ago, MN_JohnH said:
Stacking up poly lines would be a simple process if they just did what you want them to do.
Just in case you missed it.
The method I used stacked multiple moldings on a single Molding Polyline.
On single level project, you may have to use 2 or 3 polylines depending on what height your door and widows are.
Use the No Molding option at the door and windows - or if you are lucky, you can use the auto feature to do that.
If there are no windows or doors, it's just one molding polyline with stacked moldings, very quick to stack using Auto Offset and Make Copy.
And then make the window/door openings with the No Molding on Selected Edge which breaks all the moldings in one go.
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Or a Landing...or...
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1 hour ago, HumbleChief said:
What is this layer intended for?
A good analogy would be a staircase.
You need 1 more riser than the number of treads.
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In the Roof Plane Specification dbx check Use Room Ceiling Finish.
Same in the Build Roof dbx if you are doing auto roofs.
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I have always found Revolve a bit squirrelly to use.
Eric gave you some good advice but there is another way to easily do your "plate" if you want to do it separately.
Draw a Cylinder.
Convert it to a 3D Solid.
Select it and then select Fillet Lines from the Edit toolbar. (change the fillet radius as needed)
Select the faces to fillet (you will get a preview as you move the mouse around).
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Do you have On Object snaps toggled on?
Eric's video looks like it is using On Object snaps to do the snapping.
This works in X15 - I am not sure about X14.
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Thanks Eric but my method really doesn't work as I hoped.
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Tim,
I see that you are using X7 which is a very old version.
Chief used to have a tool called Print Model which was deprecated about X11 or X12.
It would print out the walls, roofs, etc, (including windows and doors, etc.) which you could assemble to make a 3D model of the house.
Probably not quite what you want as it doesn't do the site, landscaping, etc.
Be prepared to pay a LOT for a full 3D model including the site and house.
Maybe investigate 3D printing?
My best advice is to forget the physical 3D model and spend some time getting everything correct in Chief (house and site) and then do lots of 3D renders, fly-arounds, virtual tours, etc.
There are several people on this forum that can do wonders with that approach.
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4 hours ago, DBCooper said:
Just as an FYI, whenever you add a wall break, the program will really want to merge the two walls back into one unless you change a setting to make the two walls different.
This behaviour is controlled by the Auto Merge Collinear Walls setting.
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Sloping Slabs
in Tips & Techniques
Posted
In this post Gene and Joe were asking about sloped slabs.
There have been numerous requests over the years for similar functionality, with no really easy or accurate method available.
Soo...I thought I would have a play and I came up with this easy peasy way to achieve sloping slabs.
Basically:
Locate points at the corners of areas that are level zero.
Now, using something like a pyramid, set any heights that aren't a zero height to set the various negative heights as needed.
Using the Face tool go around the various planes and snap to your points.
The great thing is that the Face corners will snap not only to the points at zero height, but also to the top of the pyramids that area't at zero height, thus creating continuously joined 3D sloping planes.
You can then Extrude the faces to provide thickness to the planes.
In the attached picture I have left the pyramids visible for demonstration purposes - these would normally be deleted.
It sounds more complicated than it is.
This one only took a couple of minutes and has 2 height control points.
A simple shower stall needs only one height control point: