imodel

Members
  • Posts

    122
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by imodel

  1. Keep it on 1/16.  I actually set it to ten decimals so oddball dimensions really jump out and I can fix them as early as possible and along the way.  I stick with whole or half inches and always draw to snap grid.  I set snap to 1".

     

    If you set Dimension accuracy to 1/1 you are setting yourself up for a total disaster.  You could have a dimension that is actually 16' - 6 9/16" but it would read 16' - 7".  IMHO, this setting is for rookies with a messy drawing and dimensions.

  2. Rob,

     

    You can use Blender to import the .dae format and separate.  Export from blender to .obj to fix the z fighting in surfaces.  You will most likely need to choose meters as units and rotate in the +x.  If you are not familiar with Blender it is an awesome program and you do yourself a favor by getting familiar with it.

     

    Cool shelf unit BTW.

  3. I do these frequently.  In section I draw in polysolids for ceiling and fascia elements.  I draw one side and then mirror.  I don't model roof framing so this cheat is just to minimize time spent to get the needed geometry.  No arm wrestling the program or head scratching required.

     

    Where in the world are you building Homes in Milimeters?  I am used to using mm when I design for 3D printing stuff.  Is the only way to go for small stuff.

  4. Quote

    Some might suggest that CPU RT is better

     

    I might suggest that.  The only comparison I can truly make is with my own hands on it.  If it makes PBR look way better than it does without Global Illumination, than its probably worth the extra hardware.