DianeP

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Posts posted by DianeP

  1. On 7/24/2021 at 7:18 AM, MoeGia said:

    You could add extended roof trim on the sides to make it more 'cape-like', and remove some of the lower pitched roof edges.  I usually do dormers with a 4" rake and the main roof with a 12".  It might not work if the side windows are remaining in place.

     

    cape.thumb.png.6988068b059625f154cf3b7df8761e99.png

     

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    Love these ideas,  Thanks a bunch!!!

  2. 4 minutes ago, DenisonDrywall said:

    What if you just changed the color of the house or a different style of railing? or different kind of trim around the windows/doors?

     

    All really good ideas that I think will work for the front of the house.  They just don't like the side elevations and I am not sure what to do to fix that. I think they would like more lines in it but it is just so odd looking and I am not sure what to do.  . 

  3. Not sure if this is the right category for this, but I have a remodel that I am trying to come up with a different version for the front elevation. The sides of the house have to look as attractive, as well.  I changed the rear of the house to the way they want it.  Does anyone see something else that I could do?  This is what I have so far.  They are open to having the deck closed in above the garage.  Only restriction is we can't go past the existing roof eves on the front.   Bump outs are fine, as are pergola type treatments.  Kind of burned out on it at the moment, so any ideas might get my creativity flowing again.  Thanks a bunch!!!

     

    image.thumb.png.4077aba243cb9eec6dccfc9c5af21693.pngimage.thumb.png.3365cf721c13cc90ccdb2b0b0ef498b3.pngimage.thumb.png.6ded1461c5b14823482f8788d8dc6122.png 

  4. 14 hours ago, rgardner said:

    Move your air gap and house wrap to the exterior not the main layer, then align at main layer outside.

    I tried your idea.  It seemed so promising, but the airgap moved to the exterior acted like a thick wall and interfered with the roofs that I had (see picture) such that I couldn't drag the roof grips over to close the space.  It would just revert back to its original position because it thought the airgap was part of the wall.  The airgap also put another type of material on my drawing instead of the board and batten.  I tried to change the material for the airgap to board and batten, but it didn't work.  

     

    image.thumb.png.34a6e16c6e9ecd50b893a66833d522cb.pngimage.thumb.png.2804b2a9ee72f611f0d3aa9857a30598.png

  5. 15 hours ago, Chopsaw said:

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    Thanks for giving me ideas to look at, but the exterior choice lines the board and batton up with the exterior of the brick.  I am trying to have the exterior of the 2x6 wall line up with the exterior of the concrete in the ICF wall, which is what I have been told is the way this wall would need to be built.  Any other ideas?

  6. 6 minutes ago, dshall said:

    I did a vid on this many years ago.  You can make any shaped island you want.  Think positive bow and negative bows.

     

    if it is complex,  draw shape of base cab with cad lines and then using the info from each arc/line to define the length/arc of the bow cabinets.

     

    you get the BOW DEPTH from the cad arcs.

     

    it is really quite easy once you d9 it once or twice.

    Thanks for the insight.  I didn't find you video, but I found this one on  various shaped cabinets.  

     

    https://www.chiefarchitect.com/videos/watch/1538/special-shaped-cabinets.html?playlist=87

  7. 6 hours ago, mtldesigns said:

    See if I'm understanding, maybe I am not.  You are using a standard switch, but when you connect more than one switch to that circuit, it does not update to a 3-way, or 4way?  If this is the case, make sure the switch dbx has automatically chance switch type when wiring checked.  That's the first thing I'd look at.

    switch.JPG

     

    5 hours ago, Chopsaw said:

     

    I think Diane is doing it the "right" or only way it can be done currently, but I thought I would double check to see if that setting works with a double gang switch and it sure does a "number" on it.  

     

    Set a two gang switch to use " Automatically Change Switch Type When Wiring "  and then wire it as a three way circuit.

     

    image.thumb.png.01df1813276edefe2d9269e0ef89bacd.png

     

    When I did it it changes the switch to to a single gang and labels it a a 3 way circuit....    Very Helpful....:ph34r:

     

    5 hours ago, Chopsaw said:

     

    I think Diane is doing it the "right" or only way it can be done currently, but I thought I would double check to see if that setting works with a double gang switch and it sure does a "number" on it.  

     

    Set a two gang switch to use " Automatically Change Switch Type When Wiring "  and then wire it as a three way circuit.

     

    image.thumb.png.01df1813276edefe2d9269e0ef89bacd.png

     

    When I did it it changes the switch to to a single gang and labels it a a 3 way circuit....    Very Helpful....:ph34r:

    Very good to know.  Michael I was using the single switch when I couldn't get the double and triple to work with the 3 and 4-way.  But your information on the dbx helped chopped Saw figure out that that setting was available on the libraries multi gang swiches which will definately help next time.  It turns the multi switch into a single switch with the #way assigned.  Then i can just manually add more single switches to make the other connections I need work.  Thank you both!!!

     

  8. I am guessing the 2 and 3 way switches available  in the library are not "smart" switches as I can't  seem to get one of them to become 3 way when I connect two or more separate switches to the same light.  I guess I have to go back and replace them with individual switches, which is the way I always have done it, but thought I would try something new.  Anyone else get these to work with connections?  

     

    image.thumb.png.8ffad25d9c7b1e82b458a3d31fb21d36.png

  9. On 2/15/2021 at 11:21 AM, solver said:

     

    I downloaded the plan to have a look. Did we discuss this a week or 2 ago?

     

    I was curious how  a different 2nd floor might look. It's a pain trying to align all the different walls.

     

    ct0.thumb.png.a3aab16a6ba23cf028fe1826c52d8f45.png

    ct1.thumb.png.2f25e56edd0c258a20e81b277cb15ebe.png

    Eric can you please teach me how you did your eve on the roof over the garage doors.  I've set my roof plane to boxed eve but can't get it to look like yours.  Thanks!image.thumb.png.0f356b2d6d423b267036eb780734cd95.png

  10. Hi, I am back again with another issue with this house.  This time the ceilings on the open below, and bedrooms 3 and 4 have disappeared.  Not sure what I moved/did that caused it.  Anyone notice what it could be???  I've attached pictures of how it was, and and what it is like now. I also attached the .plan file.  Any ideas on fixing it back like its supposed to be???   

    image.thumb.png.8cfaebefe8e6e061e606bd9ebb18d031.pngimage.thumb.png.44b02a71b5c637a116a8f0d2052cbfdd.pngimage.thumb.png.42f15748ed8a97b28f18fad29546e71f.png

     

    Bergman residence 3 CA-2.zip

  11. 7 hours ago, DianneDSC said:

     

    This is a great idea. I go to websites like Kohler, GE, etc to find a model number to search for what I need in the Chief Catalog. 

     

     

    Not perfect as the bottom part does not include a panel but this works for flexibility with the lites and dimensions around the glass.

     

    image.thumb.png.9eb0ac8ae096879badab1ca8928ab42a.png

     

    image.thumb.png.47d06919f608953cc77251238f547ed6.png

     

     

     

    image.png

      Well that is neat.  I appreciate you sharing it with me Dianne.  BTW you have a great name, but you spell it wrong, lol!

  12. That is exactly what I was looking for!   thanks!  It does take too long to do the search.  It would help if there was a cheat sheet for Simpson or the other manufacturers where we could see which one we were looking for before we go to search.... like a laminated page with pictures of the various doors and their code names.  Maybe there is something on line or something the manufacturer can email me.  I will check.  Thanks again!!!

     

    Edit:  I found this on their website.  It lets you narrow the doors down to whether interior or exterior, glass and how much glass (1/2 or 3/4) and then you get a 20 pages of doors.  This door was on page 3 numbered as 77506 Nantucket. 

     

    https://www.simpsondoor.com/find-a-door/?gclid=Cj0KCQiA7NKBBhDBARIsAHbXCB6pFZ5iAjgv1OAzGCm8gJ2POmR76B30iXP7Ix6vmo2RoS1YnlMeR6saAmKREALw_wcB

  13. 4 minutes ago, robdyck said:

    When my clients want custom items like that, I just quickly draw them in using p-solids or 3d moldings. Often faster than searching the library, seeing as you were already in the right view and using the right tools;). I place them on a trim layer that displays in 3D views and my working set only.

    Great idea!!! I will use that next time.  Thanks!