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Posts posted by DianeP
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K. tried my hand at this and it seemed to work ok but was cumbersome. Probably just a learning curve I don't have down yet. Isn't there a way to use notepad to create textures? Seems like I used a method like that before. Anyways, I have attached my notes on the method I used to get the modified 4-8 from you had sent me Perry so I could find what I did next time I need it. Thanks a bunch for the guidance you and Eric gave me.
Chief Architect - Creating new material pattern for lap siding 4” 8” using 4-4-8.pdf
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On 5/10/2018 at 11:01 AM, DRAWZILLA said:
Perry or anyone else is there a 4" that alternates with 8" calibz file available. Need that this time instead of the 4"4"8" version. Thanks! Is there a video on how to create this available?
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1 hour ago, Kbird1 said:
They are still Recessed Cans , it's just the Bulb is now LED , so whether you do that with Notes of make a change to the CAD Block is upto you,
this KB article should show you how to make it L not R if you want to :
M.
Thanks for the solution!
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7 hours ago, Joe_Carrick said:
Use Landings
5 hours ago, rgardner said:Alternative is to use the new tool we got in x12 to do a full break of the stairs and make those stairs extend to where you want them.
Thanks, both good ideas, but would they get me this look? When I tried it, I couldn't get the first step to curve around to the wall.
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Hi All, What are you doing for LED lights that have replaced the recess cans we used to use in houses. Have you found a new symbol or is there a way to change the R to an L in the recess symbol in the library. Thanks!
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Hi All, Is there a way to make the starter tread(s) go to just one side only? I am wanting 2 treads that stretch to the right of the staircase. Thanks a bunch!
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18 minutes ago, glennw said:
Preferences>Edit>Snap Properties>Object Snaps>Intersections?
That is the answer! Thanks!
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yes. Haven't checked into x13 yet. Will when I have more time.
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There are a few changes that have happened since my windows 10 update. The one that is bothering right now is there used to be a little faint red x that would help you line up walls that were close but not exactly in line with each other. Anyone know how I can get that working again? More later on the other things that are working differently.
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Man, all of you are just absolutely awesome!!!!! Thanks so much for taking time to help me on this. After a refreshing weekend and your inspirations I have an idea of which way to go. Hope everyone has a wonderful week!!!!!
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On 7/24/2021 at 7:18 AM, MoeGia said:
Love these ideas, Thanks a bunch!!!
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47 minutes ago, ericepv said:
Have you tried posting your request on Houzz? Lot's of designers there.
Yes I put it on there yesterday. They are primarily giving me landscaping ideas instead of something for the house.
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Like that! I have added a belly band as well and that helps. Thanks for getting me thinking again!
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4 minutes ago, DenisonDrywall said:
What if you just changed the color of the house or a different style of railing? or different kind of trim around the windows/doors?
All really good ideas that I think will work for the front of the house. They just don't like the side elevations and I am not sure what to do to fix that. I think they would like more lines in it but it is just so odd looking and I am not sure what to do. .
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Not sure if this is the right category for this, but I have a remodel that I am trying to come up with a different version for the front elevation. The sides of the house have to look as attractive, as well. I changed the rear of the house to the way they want it. Does anyone see something else that I could do? This is what I have so far. They are open to having the deck closed in above the garage. Only restriction is we can't go past the existing roof eves on the front. Bump outs are fine, as are pergola type treatments. Kind of burned out on it at the moment, so any ideas might get my creativity flowing again. Thanks a bunch!!!
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14 hours ago, rgardner said:
Move your air gap and house wrap to the exterior not the main layer, then align at main layer outside.
I tried your idea. It seemed so promising, but the airgap moved to the exterior acted like a thick wall and interfered with the roofs that I had (see picture) such that I couldn't drag the roof grips over to close the space. It would just revert back to its original position because it thought the airgap was part of the wall. The airgap also put another type of material on my drawing instead of the board and batten. I tried to change the material for the airgap to board and batten, but it didn't work.
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15 hours ago, Chopsaw said:
Thanks for giving me ideas to look at, but the exterior choice lines the board and batton up with the exterior of the brick. I am trying to have the exterior of the 2x6 wall line up with the exterior of the concrete in the ICF wall, which is what I have been told is the way this wall would need to be built. Any other ideas?
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6 minutes ago, dshall said:
I did a vid on this many years ago. You can make any shaped island you want. Think positive bow and negative bows.
if it is complex, draw shape of base cab with cad lines and then using the info from each arc/line to define the length/arc of the bow cabinets.
you get the BOW DEPTH from the cad arcs.
it is really quite easy once you d9 it once or twice.
Thanks for the insight. I didn't find you video, but I found this one on various shaped cabinets.
https://www.chiefarchitect.com/videos/watch/1538/special-shaped-cabinets.html?playlist=87
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Oh! (palm slap to forehead) Sometimes I just get too deep in the weeds. Thanks for helping me with this!
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6 hours ago, mtldesigns said:
See if I'm understanding, maybe I am not. You are using a standard switch, but when you connect more than one switch to that circuit, it does not update to a 3-way, or 4way? If this is the case, make sure the switch dbx has automatically chance switch type when wiring checked. That's the first thing I'd look at.
5 hours ago, Chopsaw said:I think Diane is doing it the "right" or only way it can be done currently, but I thought I would double check to see if that setting works with a double gang switch and it sure does a "number" on it.
Set a two gang switch to use " Automatically Change Switch Type When Wiring " and then wire it as a three way circuit.
When I did it it changes the switch to to a single gang and labels it a a 3 way circuit.... Very Helpful....
5 hours ago, Chopsaw said:I think Diane is doing it the "right" or only way it can be done currently, but I thought I would double check to see if that setting works with a double gang switch and it sure does a "number" on it.
Set a two gang switch to use " Automatically Change Switch Type When Wiring " and then wire it as a three way circuit.
When I did it it changes the switch to to a single gang and labels it a a 3 way circuit.... Very Helpful....
Very good to know. Michael I was using the single switch when I couldn't get the double and triple to work with the 3 and 4-way. But your information on the dbx helped chopped Saw figure out that that setting was available on the libraries multi gang swiches which will definately help next time. It turns the multi switch into a single switch with the #way assigned. Then i can just manually add more single switches to make the other connections I need work. Thank you both!!!
Truss company able to handle work for Florida
in Industry & Design Resources
Posted
Our local truss companies are overwhelmed and turning away work. We must have truss sheets that are windloaded and designed for Florida for the permitting process. Are there any truss companies that have availability and ability to do Florida trusses? It's crazy these days. What used to take me a week to get is now taking 6 weeks just to get a quote,. Any then another four weeks to get the trust sheets. Any help trying to find a solution would be wonderful!