CJSpud

Taking Sherry's lead, I created a 4-sided model with 2x6 framed walls, 109-1/8" tall.  Framed all 4 walls and locked their framing.  Then I created a new floor mirroring the 1st and in the Structure dbx I made the floor 24" tall and zeroed the floor system (framing & finished materials) as well as the ceiling drywall.  Then on Floor 2, I selected all 4 walls and framed them and got the results as show below.  I did not make the 2nd floor as "open below" and the results "seem" to be OK.
 

 
Next, I built a 3rd floor, mirroring the first two floors and had to re-input the floor framing elements and the ceiling drywall in the structure dbx.  This is what it looks like with the walls and floor of the 3rd floor framed.
 

 
Great suggestion Sherry.

Per Scott, etc., click on "Define" to change the units.
 
If you really only want to change the "Text Style", the image below and the red arrows leads you through the process:
 

 
You can make as many unique text styles as you want by copying and renaming the default text style (or any of the other saved text styles that come with Chief) and then editing the font, font height and other characteristics as desired.

Many users in CA put their basements walls etc. on Floor 1 and footings and foundation stem walls on Floor 0 ... because of all the stuff their building departments require on the plans. 
 
I use Floor 0 for my basements foundation walls, frostwalls and footings.  I work in an area without seismic or high wind code requirements.
 
It is really up to you to figure out which way works best for you.

If you are interested in seeing wall framing for individual walls, just select the wall and then in the edit tool bar, click on the tool I have circled:
 

 
Using the dimension tools, you can check the rough framing dimensions for any framed wall section:
 

Bob:
 
There are two strategies (at least that I can think of at the moment) that I use for your situation:
 
1.  Make the porch gable wall with a polyline solid.
 
2.  Sometimes I will just use a wall with a doorway in it.  Going this route is nice because the attic galble wall will generate OK and you can arch the top of the doorway as desired.  The limitations of this method are the columns, unless you get creative and come up with other solutions.
 
Did you use railing side walls with the post to beam option?  If not, this is a simple and quick way to get your posts and beams in place and you can resize them as needed in the dbx.
 
You can use the custom ceiling plane and curved roof tools to create the curved ceiling.  I find getting those curve settings right a little bit trial and error since I don't use them that often.  Of course you can create the curved ceiling surfaces with PL solids or even a molding PL if desired.
 
There might even be some techniques that can be used that no one has thought of yet.  My example below shows a PL solid for the gable wall while I used curved ceiling planes over the porch with a 4:12 pitch while the roof planes are all 8:12.
 

 
Good luck.

George:
 
Have you looked at all of Chief's "Custom" pattern folders.  If not, you should check them out.  There might already exist patterns that are close to what you need.  In addition to the default pattern folder that are available when assigning a fill, there are 11 other custom pattern folders of various materials types that are accessible via. custom > browse.  Below is a PDF that a fellow Chiefer (???) provided on the forum awhile back that shows the various patterns in those folders.  I have printed a copy of this file and use it as a "cheat sheet" reference which is quicker than migrating through the folders to see what is there.
 
Fill Hatch Patterns Cheat Sheets.pdf
 
 Here's a copy of a 2001 ChiefTalk thread with some info on doing patterns.  Not sure if it will help you figure out how to make a pattern or not.  Looks way too complicated for me ... I will make do with what's available and hope the Chief dudes will give us more as time goes on.
 
4-27-01_TimO-PatternFiles.pdf
 
Here's a Joe Carrick thread from 2007 that has more information on the subject:
 
Creating Fill_Hatch Patterns_JoeCarrick.pdf
 
If I can find more info I've saved from old threads I will post it.  Will probably have to go looking on my old computer to find more.
 
If you haven't explored the custom fill folders yet, here's a few images on the subject:
 
             
 
You can tweak the settings of your materials to get the pattern to display at different scales.  Maybe you've already figured all that out.
 
 

Mark:
 
The way it is working is based on what is displayed (actually visible) in your section view.  Even if, with moldings off, you drag the label down into an area where it should be visible.  I put the shelf on the wall cabinets layer and it still behaves the same way.  Maybe you could do a small cross section through the shelf and put a manual callout in there to show the shelf.
 

Have you tried to join them with the new "Intersection, Join Two Lines" tool?

Richard:
 
For your front overhanging wall, put a check in "Default Wall Bottom Height" in the Structure Tab .... same for the 2nd floor wall on the left side.

After I deleted your garage wall and replaced it, I got the gable line tool to work OK. 
 
Did you know you have one roof plane that is 8:12?
 
Also, you may want to change the wall type for that small gable wall at the end of your porch roof near the entry door.

If your small gable is the only two roof planes you want to change, select both of them, then lock the fascia top setting and plug in your new pitch. Since your gable is to be steepened, you'll need to rejoin the gable roof planes to the main roof planes by selecting each gable roof plane near the valley intersection - hit the number 2 key (shortcut for join roof planes) - then select the larger roof plane on the opposite side of the valley .... then repeat the process for the opposite side.  That should be all there is to it.

Glenn:
 
That was simple enough.  I never would have suspected that the gable roof planes weren't properly aligned with the other roof plane edge.  Pretty hard to tell with the camera views.  A plan view probably would have shown the problem.
 
Mainwood:
 
Another trick to use when trouble shooting is to take a backclipped section through your problem area.  Sometimes this is an easy way to spot alignment problems such as you incurred.
 
Good luck with your project and welcome to ChiefTalk.