Gawdzira

Sweet. Thanks Bill.

More pics to describe the issue.

I am at a pretty messy stage with this 3d model so it won't help to attach a plan. What I am pointing to in the attached image is where a roof plane will intersect the curved wall of a tower element which goes through the roof plane. In my previous version of this I just cut the roof plane along the curve and made a segmented line with a lot of breaks to come close to the curved wall.

I can, and will, do that again but I sure would like to have some one point to the curved cut in plan projection onto a roof plane tool...

I have been deleting a lot of my ranting before hitting the "POST"  button due to that fact that a basic Google search for me comes up with my posts on this forum on the first page.

I don't know why that worked for you. Without my cross hairs in perspective view I can edit in 3d.

Hardware edge smoothing?

At 7pm your sun should point to just north of west. Looks correct to me.

Post your plan. If someone else can move the desired object than it will be local to your computer as DJP is suggesting.

Did you, by any chance, first build the upper skylights and copy them to the lower roof?

Got it. You are too skinny. Change the thickness and the opposite side will not bleed through. Or, convert it to a solid.

I created a polyline solid in elevation and shaped it just like yours. The pattern is consistent.

The real questions is what settings are you using to get that amazing line drawing render? Is that watercolor with gray tones?

P-SOLID PLAN.zip

Mary Anne, post your plan to the forum and a sketch of what you are wanting. This is a very easy thing to achieve by either drawing the roof manually or setting up some temporary (or invisible) walls for the roof to auto build. There are many different kinds of roofs so your question becomes a little vague without a drawing.

I have seen a detail book done very well for a large project. I like the idea but the majority of my projects have not needed something so extensive.

I just watched the video demo of the Disto D5. Then I wiped the drool from my keyboard.

I have a Ryobi and it works great. Back lit display. Finding that red dot in the sun is almost impossible past about 20'. I have not tried the yellow shooting type sunglasses for the outdoors. Most of the time, when shooting for an as built I am doing about 99% from the interior anyways. I do my as built drawings with a field sketch clip board. It holds an 11x17 sheet. I will sometimes use that to lean against an outside corner for the outside shots where I can't hook a tape.

I keep it very simple with my field measures and just shoot distance in inches. I hear all the time about tricky things your phone can do to measure a room. A guy I know came in singing about an app to get a rooms dimensions. We tried the room we were standing in and it was off by about 25% for a 9x13 room.

Don't mean to sidetrack but it is Friday. One of my buddies who worked phone support for Microsoft Word (early 90's) would get paper photocopies of floppy disks sent to him. "Please send me a copy of the disk you are having trouble with...."

There is a wall type for curved walls.

Is this something you have to do or want to do? If you are a newbie and this is your first project, you might want to start with a rectangular house?

If you are doing the round house I have found that drawing the curved wall is easier if you first draw a curved line and the wall will try to follow the curve.

Your garage floor height is too high. I have not opened you plan file but the site photos show a garage slab down about 18+ inches below the floor line. Your CA image shows them matching. That is where you need to start.

Wait a minute...if you send an elevation to layout with make copy of active layerset you will not need to send it again after changes? Is that what you are saying Perry?

Yes, this is a constant PIA. The open and O.K. on the layer display is the proverbial hammer on the thumb.

Are you working with the layout window displayed? I wonder if this could be a multiple window open thing?

I would create a polyline solid in elevation and shape it accordingly. For something like this I tend to use guide lines to help me maintain consistent spacing and shaping. Since it looks like the curves start at the post edges I would create a polyine box at the post and repeat copy it with the correct spacing. Once I have those lines in place I would use them for snapping the breaks in the polyline solid and then make the edges into curves. By drawing a line for the top of the arc across the whole unit you can then shape the arcs to meet at the tangent point of your top guide line.

Or, create a curve as your guide line and repeat copy that. The curved lines like to snap to other curves.

I build ones like that (nothing) all the time. Unfortunately my clients are often unsatisfied with the result.

One thing to keep in mind with the method Perry descibes (which is the right way to do it), make sure you know how you will show the walls in your plan view. If you show your walls as "Main Layer Only", do your view to CAD the same. If you show layers on your floor plan view make sure to include them in the cad. this way the various lines will overlap properly. Then, once you paste your cad detail block into the plan view, choose Line Style -> Drawing Group -> Back Group so the dashed lines fall to the background except where you have removed a wall.

Edit, that may be 2 or 3 things to keep in mind but I am not good with math.

As Mike said, here are some pictures to illustrate:

Pic one shows the layers I have set up for the various sheet sizes. I turn off the 8x11 or 11x17 layers for the full size sheet. I can leave the full size sheet info on all the time since if I am setting the sheet size smaller that info is out of print range. If I want to set up a drawing for 8.5x11 I just change the sheet size in File-> Print-> Drawing Sheet Set UP