Rookie65

I think there's a bonus catalog (specialty doors) that may have cafe doors

I use a solid color for existing walls, then use some of the geometric shapes, etc. for other wall type fill. You can use whatever color you want, yet obviously dark ones print best. It helps when labeling the wall types on the drawing so you know what types are where. I don't know if Chief will let you adjust the size and angle of the shapes, yet that helps to in separating them.

Change the label to specify label > %width%x%height" and that will display it in inches with the " symbol too

Likely the openings are not drawn on the even 1/2" increment, so when they add them to make the full dimension of the wall they're in, it's throwing it off. I don't open plans to view, as an image is often better to view without opening up the computer to potential virus', etc. Nothing personal

It's like trying to make 2 independent functions become one. It won't remember your interior walls when trying to rebuild the foundation. Depending on how many walls are involved, could you possibly copy what you want to save, then rebuild the foundation, and "paste-hold position" the interior walls back?

Exactly. Manually drawn walls are not part of the foundation. To me, it's a request that isn't attainable.

Do you have the rough opening set to "show in room below"?

My guess is because the interior walls are not part of a foundation, when rebuilding foundation the interior walls are not recognized, and therefore disappear. Aligning the foundation to exterior wall changes is not that difficult a process

What does that have to do with interior walls in the basement? I do wish everything you drew in the basement wouldn't disappear if you do rebuild the foundation. Guess we're stuck with manually drawing changed foundation walls. Or just align them.

The foundation is automatically drawn based on the house exterior walls above. Once it's drawn from that, what would auto foundation need to do differently? The interior walls you want would have nothing to do with the exterior walls

If you have the floor plan, then count the stair treads going down from the main floor to the garage floor, and add 1 riser. Pick a riser height that makes sense, then drop the garage floor from the main floor that amount. Then set your garage ceiling height from there. Or ask your clients if they can measure it for you.

The Therma-Tru catalog is lacking a lot of the current styles and options. The Smooth Star line would be a great addition. Apparently us users are supposed to make the plea to Therma-Tru to update their offerings. It's too bad it's not kept up with, being the most popular door brand in the US.

email sent

Maybe try as a panel with cable railings and make the cables thick? Don't know if it will follow the curve, as I didn't try it.

Maybe make that entrance a room with all room dividers, then uncheck "ceiling above?"