javatom

Sometimes the problem can be hard to find.  There was a download available for a more realistic looking grass.  I used it on a plan and it made the file size almost unusable.  You could start deleting groups of items and keep track of file size.  You will eventually find the problem item or items.

Delete the furniture.  Do you really need to show a TV hanging on the wall.

theater chairs - face count 6620

pool table - face count 7998

hot tub - face count 8168

fire pit - face count 9511

I think you get the idea.

That looks like a very long span for the ceiling joists (that you now want to use as floor joists).  You should have an engineer look at it.

use a pony wall.

Set your plan up to be at floor elevation of zero.  There is rarely an exception to this.  Build the terrain based on the elevations data and then move the entire elevation to where it should be.  Pretend that this survey showed a lot in the mountains and the elevation is 5000'  You would not change your floor plan the have a floor level of 5000'.  The elevation data from the survey is just to get the slope right.

This picture shows what you might have going on.  The steep sloped portion of the mansard is just a steep overhang that is added to a normal 2nd story roof.  The steep part basically covers the wall that is supporting the shallower pitched portion of the roof system.  I placed a skylight in it to show how it might work.

You could use skylights.  It would not look right in section views but the elevation would look pretty close.

It is called "Stairs & Ramps, details".

The ever present decision of including the stairwell or not in the square footage.  I usually include it.  It is a great tool to use when you are trying to show less total square footage to a building department.  I include it to show clients a more realistic statistic of what they are about to build.

Stairs to a basement often take more space on the main level.  If the stair is on an outside wall, the basement wall might be an 8" concrete stem wall.  It might also have a 2x4 framed wall for the insulation.  In these types of situations, it is best to account for the impact of the offset right from the beginning.  Don't get to happy with a stair placement that fits into the main level outside wall without making it wide enough to also work in the basement.

In the real world, it is not possible.  The problem comes up when part of the ceiling is flat and part of it is vaulted.  It can not be right in both instances.

I just completed a plan in that city and they did not require an architect.  Maybe it is a HOA rule.

I think that could be done by placing an arched opening in the wall.  Make it tall enough to cut into the attic wall.  You can then drag the top of the wall down to where it does not show.  It will still generate the attic wall.  There may be other ways to do it besides this one.

That looks like a very large span for 11 7/8".

You can also build the model with thin walls and add the logs as independent object.  It takes a while to create but you have total control over each log and how it is place.

PM sent.

Click on the foundation walls and change the structure to hang from wall.

Be careful with your material selections.  You can easily get into a scenario where the file size is so big it becomes unusable.  Many custom made materials will really drive the file size up.

Maybe your section view is displaying 2 floors that that are 4" different in floor height.  The auto fill might be showing both floor slabs combined.  Just a guess though.

Why would it be important to have a material like this.

Draw a deck rail that is parallel to the house but separated by a half inch or so.  You also might need to manually place some of the footings and posts if they are not where you want them.

Turn all layers off except the one you want to delete.  Hit F6 to show what ever it is that is hiding on that layer.  Delete the offending object then you should be able to delete the layer.

This picture shows insulation in the ceiling but it could also have it between the rafters.  You would just need a 1" space between insulation and the bottom of the sheathing.  Some builders will use masonite tacked in place between the rafters to insure the gap stays clear.

Open the wall and check "pony wall".  Make the top wall a 6" wall and the bottom wall 8".

17 hours ago, Chopsaw said:

How about this:

 

How are you getting the labels to not show the usual oval and diamond shaped schedule labels?  I tried this macro and it does not display what you show.