javatom

Make sure the electrician knows about this.  The outlet for the motor goes in that area not the usual spot on the ceiling.

Move the roof plane in the Z direction then join them at the top with the roof plane on the other side.

This might do the trick as Chopsaw indicated.

I would imagine that all areas would need bolts to secure the bottom plate.

4 hours ago, EStewart71 said:

The brick is a structural member as long as installed with Type S mortar and supported by the footing. While it doesn't have to be a structural member the brick certainly can be.  See the image. 

It might be a little hard to install seismic hardware etc. with this set up.

The wood walls should align to the the foundation NOT the brick.  Think of the brick as a facade.  It does not support the walls above it.

This home is in an area of wind speed 90 and seismic C.  That detail might not work in all areas.  I usually spec something like what Scott shows and let the engineer dial in the specifications.  I live in an area where the builders do not like to use steel.  The specifics of your area can greatly influence a lot of the specifications.

I have done them out of wood as well.  The engineer usually requires 6x6 columns of Glulam material or PSL.  It is then balloon framed with a lot of hold down steel straps and bolts.  The tricky part is supporting the header between the upper and lower windows.  I usually use a hidden hanger.  The HUC series works well.

That stair would be a no go where I live.

It is because you have the window top higher than the bottom of the floor joist of the level above.  Lower the windows.

This is kind of like asking how much a car costs per pound.

Your roof plane is cutting into it.  Just pull the roof back to the point of the siding and you will be fine.

The individual stair segments should be the same specifications for them to connect.  It helps if you lock the treads as you build them so you can avoid varying tread depths.

Just turn the label off for that room and add your own note saying what you want it to say.  You can place that note in the room label layer.

Dimensions set to wall centers are a great way to NEVER get a referral from that builder again.

Maybe you have some invisible walls that are defining a deck area.  Turn ALL your layers on and it might show up.

Looking for someone to help with overflow drafting work. Most work consists of drafting the basics of the structure from sketches.  Remote work is OK.  Must have current software and capable equipment.

I keep the plan and layout files names the same throughout the project.  I place them in FOLDERS with the name containing the date completed.  This allows you to avoid having to set up the links every time you change the plan file name.  It will also help if you keep your materials limited to the ones provided by chief out of the box.  Custom materials would mean another step in the process of saving the layout.

You can also move the roof plane to another level.  Click on the roof and hit "display on floor above".  It is the icon that looks like a gable end of a roof.

It could be a label.

You also might have some imported objects that have really high face counts.  For instance, I have seen two toilets that look about the same but one has a really high face count.  If your plan has a lot of these items, it can really add up.

The roof will determine how it frames.  Look at a section view.  You will be able to see the wall and ceiling heights more clearly.

Open the DBX for the rooms in question and change the ceiling height.  Leave the other rooms as they are.  You can change ceiling heights on a room by room basis.

You can make it a separate entity by exploding the auto dormer.

You should put this in the section called "seeking services".