Evolution

Eric, that seems simple enough. My home computer is down so Imwillnhave to wait until I am back in the office tomorrow. I watched the video on lowering the ceiling height while not changing the plate height, but the presenter talked fast and some parts of the vid were not clear. If I ever manage the roof I will have to work on lowering the ceiling without changing the plate height.Thanks for the help,

Yes, I understand that. From experience I know roof's on different sections with varying dimensions will cause differing results, but it should be possible to LIMIT the crazy results to some degree?

I have been waiting for the client to decide on the over-all dimensions they wanted for the master areas, and actual finished ceiling heights vs plate height (i.e. 14' plate in most main areas-10' and 9' finished ceiling in some other areas). So, for some reason all the previous "minor" dimension changes caused CRAZY roof iterations when I do auto-rebuild. Hopefully they have finally come to a conclusion with major dimension changes. I have updated the current floor plan with most, of the major dimension changes and as they have provided info, added cabinets etc to suffice for now. The problem now is, attempting to build the roof (manually) is becoming so frustrating, and time constraints wouldn't normally be a problem if my home computer hadn't crashed, so currently I can only work on it in the office. I have zipped the original back up file of where we started (that is the roof line they want) and added the current updated plan file (that is the CRAZY roof they do not want). Not sure what the best approach is NOW to build the original manual roof on the current updated floor plan and how to lock it so the roof doesn't change when I add any or change any interior walls. All help acknowledge and appreciated! Plan 2R SELECT Main Level X6 Current 12.16.2014.zip Plan 2 SELECT Main Level BACK UPR original X6 Current.zip

Well, I had tried that earlier too, nothing changed, but I went back and made sure I had selected the table, opened the dbx to make sure all the settings were as I had previously set them, closed it, reselected the table o only and bang, it was correct this time!

That was the FIRST thing I tried, even though the chairs appear to be in front of everything else, and it Didn't change anything (assuming I know how to use it correctly) I checked the help.

Placing a dining table (size requested by client) to give an idea of room/clearances. The table is from the CA library, I increased it's size via the dbx, added chairs by copy/paste. Interesting results, when I attempted to place the added chairs, I could only drag them under the table by a control drag, which appeared to place them on top of the table. I opened each chair dbx and the floor to bottom was already set to zero. I did a section through the table and none of the offending chairs are above the table. Of course the client immediately recognized those chairs and questioned why I placed them on top of the table. It was a bit embarrassing to say the "soft ware" did it that way, or I don't know why. I can't fix it however, as these are the only chairs doing it, and none of the others required a control drag to place them!?!? I removed the offending chairs, and copied/pasted more to replace them, But again I could only slide them under the table via a controlled drag and again they appear to be on top of the table. Any ideas why? Dining table.pdf

No doubt with all the different iteration of have had to go through to please the client, something has go astray with the attic walls. I am attempting manually adjusting auto roof planes and by no means am an expert, so a lot of trial and error along with changes from the client have some how affect this particular eve. I moved the attic wall out and back in but that did not affect the offending wall corner. I hate to delete that wall but that may be my only choice?

Doug, this worked perfectly! Thanks

I gave it a try, didn't work!

I have several window walls with multiple windows that need to be spaced equally. I assumed that once I get a section drawn I could select it all and copy/paste, or even better create an architectural block that can be reused, but setting up the first wall has become a monumental task. I have reached a point of frustration that I need to move on to something else and give it a rest, however; I did do a word search In the ref and user manuals as well as the KB with no luck. I am sure one or more of you have figured this operation out and might be able to offer direction? I did attempt zooming in, selecting the dimensions one by one, but no hand cursor popped up for me to select the dimensions. I have not tried the block yet to see if I can created it and some how set the dimensions in advance? Thanks in advance!

New request from client to add a shed dormer in the barreled ceiling; to allow more natural light in the kitchen @ the sink area. I have attached a clip of the sketch I made for the client and while reviewing the CA KB and help file for dormers thought I might ask advice on building the shed type dormer that in actuality will be a type of sky-lite which will require the interior to be finished with the same material as the ceiling in that area (drywall? or Wood?) when they decide what they want.

CJ-thanks for the advice. I didn't have any problem building the "barrel" ceiling, I did use the railing tool to build the exterior perimeter of the screened porch, and was in the process of working out the details for the screened sections when I received NEW direction from the client requesting the bath/master bed suite be reversed THUS doing away with the screened porch. So in essence it changes that entire end of the house (and the roof line will be altered again) that being said will now create for me another call for help when I get finished with the revisions a CRY for help with figuring out the roof line again which is fodder for later! Thanks again for your help!

I need to close the eve of the screened porch both at its exposed end, and at what would be the intersection between the main roof over-hang and the barrel ceiling. I can take the time to do a lot of experimental things, but thought maybe someone on the forum had already past the test on this one! I thought maybe doing invisible walls and add door opening with a barrel radius at the top. I know you can't place an opening in an invisible wall, but if you do normal wall, insert opening, then open the wall dbx and make it invisible the open will remain. I think that's correct. I still have to model the screened openings too, so that all might be best done with walls/invisible walls? Did I answer my own question?

Sorry Eric, can't get the correct plan to upload now! It is only 3.61MB but the forum uploader message is: Try our advanced uploader (requires Flash 9). I attempt that but when I select the file and select upload the system just keeps grinding with no results.

NOTE: In my consideration between Lite and X6 response from Sales was the plan is to discontinue lite. I definitely would contact tech support prior to final decisions. I love X6!

Working on roof issues now. Will get back to the gyp-board stuff later. I thought I'd looked everywhere! Thanks ALL!

I didn't think this roof was all that complicated. The first build actually came out looking very good. I wish I had saved a copy of that plan. Then the client wanted more changes. Next build on the roof really screwed up now. I've attempted several iterations but when I try to manually adjust the quirky valleys everything goes hay wire. I deleted the roof and drew in some cad line to mark where I think the ridge should be. I've actually had the hands on experience of building so common sense tells me if my main dimension wall to wall on each section of the home are the same, and the main roof pitch is the same, in this case 14/12 and the over hangs are all the same (ceiling height is 10') then the roof shouldn't have the crazy lines the software keeps building. Hoping one of you roof guru's can help me with this. I am posting the plan (for about the third or fourth time in this post and most of the other threads I've started). Appreciate all the help in advance. The clip of the roof full view isn't very good but hopefully you can make out the weird offsets etc. I need a smooth as possible eve and ridge line and the eye brows over the bump outs should all be the same I would think? Plan 1a Main Level X6.plan

Already looked at that. I did make sure to draw clockwise, but checked anyway. Thanks

I completely understand, and appreciate all the help! I have been trying to post the plan and kept getting an error message, this time it worked? Thanks! Plan 2 Main Level X6 Current.plan

Perry, unless I had a lapse of memory, I did not paint the walls, I edited the plan defaults as you will see in the clips. I originally set the interior side as gyp board. sent them a couple screen shots and they asked what the wall finish inside was to which I said byp board. They said show us what it would look like with BB run horizontally, so I went back into edit default and changed to the HBB, then screen shot it back to them, and after we talked and they listened I went back into edit defaults back to gyp board. I defined the wall in default edits because they sent me a wall detail (he is a contractor) of how HE wanted the exterior wall built up by layer!

Since I cannot select the bump out as a separate space to raise the floor, I would have to use the divider or invisible wall tool to create a room?

I don't remember using the paint roller, as I usually set all my plan defaults (edits) @ the start of a new plan. Anyway, Robert; I attempted what you suggested and as you can see (after a dozen or more attempts) the interior wall finish finally changed to gyp board, however; you can also see that some of the BB remains in the eve, as well as the mull between the door and fixed glass and it all looks kind of squirrely?!? So, I don't know how to fix those issues? So the battle continues, and I need to get the schematic ready for their review.

The master bath has a window set high above the tub and built out from the main layer about 20". The lower part of the wall is also built out 20" behind the tub but the tub extends into the room from the main layer creating a hollow wall (20") deep behind the tub. How would you model this detail?

The client wanted to use a horizontal bead board for the main wall finish. I finally convinced them it wasn't a good idea for this particular home. They decided just to show gyp board everywhere and we could add special finishes (tile etc) as needed so I edited the defaults for ext/int walls for gyp board, saved the changes and closed the plan. Upon reopening the plan, I noted all the walls are still showing as the horizontal bead board so I checked to see if the program had saved my changes, and it had indeed; however reopening the full camera elevation view still shows bead board. I selected individual walls and opened the dbx's to see what was spec'd for the wall materials and gyp board is selected; however reopening the full camera elevation and it still shows the horizontal bead board!?!? what am I missing?

Looking further to the error message, and using the knowledge base, I located the offending roof planes and according to the KB if I pull the edge of the offending roof planes to butt the exterior finished surfaces (I am not sure why X6 isn't intuitive enough to know not to build the roof plane into the framing?) it would heal the condition. I used the control key to override the snaps, and pulled each offending plane/edge back stopping at the exterior finished surface, and it does look better, however; it didn't completely heal the condition. I re-checked to make sure I pulled the edges back far enough, and zoomed way in to be sure, looks right, and when I change back to plan or move anything I don't keep getting the message, but the holes are still there, only small now?!?!