Evolution
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Posts posted by Evolution
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11 hours ago, StephenGreene said:
Stephen, this appears to be what I need. I will see if I can get it to work for me. I attempted the operation before and thought I was lowering the floor but perhaps not. My previous operations kept increasing the room height not lowering the floor.
Thanks.
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33 minutes ago, DBCooper said:
I wouldn't bother with a "down" ramp. Just use a normal "up" ramp. Set the width and length to the width and length of of the room and turn off the railings. Turn off automatic heights, check the box for "lock heights", and then set the base height to 0, the bottom of the ramp to 0 (or to the floor height), and the top of the ramp whatever you need it to be. Ramp should then sit on the floor and slope up as much as your need to the top height.
As for the room heights, just treat it like a normal room with floor height set to the lowest value.
Drawing the ramp on the exterior is no problem but it ought to be simpler to draw the sloped floor?
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40 minutes ago, JiAngelo said:
I'm not at my computer, but if FFE is 32" above terrain, and you are using 2x10 floor joists and 1.5" sill on concrete blocks walls, then label the room you want the ramp inside as a garage with floor -4.5 below stem wall (or just check floor supplied by foundation below and change floor height.) 10"+1.5"+4.5" =16" below FFE. Then install ramp inside this room from 0" to 16".
Concrete on fill. With a CMU stem wall all the way around.
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2 minutes ago, Evolution said:
I couldn't get that the work first go. I have an idea and will try it again.
My idea didn't work, and lowering the floor how? I changed the stem wall to 16" but that just raised the footings in that area. I opened the structure tab but changing heights in that only raised the ceiling 16". :-(
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26 minutes ago, JiAngelo said:
Lower the floor to lower ramp height. Then place the ramp in the room sloping up to the highest ramp height. (Generally the default floor height)
I couldn't get that the work first go. I have an idea and will try it again.
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11 minutes ago, DBCooper said:
Ramp should work if the room is rectangular. Would probably want to use a poly solid for any other shaped room.
The room is rectangular.
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25 minutes ago, Evolution said:
I watched the video I mentioned and it IS great for exterior ramps. It doesn't address my particular situation. So, If I am to use the ramp tool to create the sloped floor, I can't find a way in either the room default, or the edit>tools>default>rooms>floor to slope it. Before I attempt it, do I just go to the room default>floor and uncheck all tabs to do with the floor structure and then use the ramp tool inside the room to model the ramp? I can give that idea a try.
So. I am not able to model the sloped floor using the ramp tool. First ,setting the height to start at the height of the adjoining areas vs setting the height of the lower floor should allow me to start the ramp at the top height and draw it holding down the right button and dragging to the lower end, but that didn't give me the desired results. Some how I have to show the starting floor at the higher of the two elevations, and the sloped floor at the lower of the two elevations before drawing the ramp down. HELPPP! please
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2 hours ago, javatom said:
Ramps are the best way to do this. Be careful when placing doors and windows. You might have to set the height to absolute and manually place it at the elevation you want.
I watched the video I mentioned and it IS great for exterior ramps. It doesn't address my particular situation. So, If I am to use the ramp tool to create the sloped floor, I can't find a way in either the room default, or the edit>tools>default>rooms>floor to slope it. Before I attempt it, do I just go to the room default>floor and uncheck all tabs to do with the floor structure and then use the ramp tool inside the room to model the ramp? I can give that idea a try.
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I am starting the construction drawings after we received approval by the Environmental department to proceed. I need help / advise on the best way to model the floor slope of the existing sanctuary. The main building (as built) is approximately 32" above finished grade. The area I have "X"'d in the snip is at 32" above finished grade. The area (depicted by the arrow) of the existing sanctuary is approximately 16" above finished grade. I need to model a raised platform on the end of the new addition. I'll address that later.
The addition will start at that FF grade and remain level. I'm watching the Stairs and Ramps video (for exteriors & Decks) which I assume would be applicable to my build, but any additional advice is appreciated.
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On 12/12/2025 at 6:27 PM, Mark3D said:
Here is a video showing its different than original file
NEW FRONT PORCH ADDITION 1256 BLOOMERY ROAD mark edit.plan 6.26 MB · 2 downloads
Mark, thanks for the video, however there was background noise so that I could not understand what you were saying. I did attempt the changes, which seemed to make it work. After looking at results again, the wife decided she now wants the porch deeper (extending it further toward the drive) and that's fine except when I made the new changes in depth the entire porch went "wonky" and after several attempts I'm right back with a dys-functional drawing and the contractor is asking for the update for pricing. 
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Thanks, Mark. I'd like to know the steps you took to fix it? I've tried everything I could think of.
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14 hours ago, basketballman said:
Yes.
Use it everyday; every project.
Samples:
https://www.bark.com/en/us/b/rms-design-build-services/GVMZn/#lg=1&slide=0
Bob, is there a Tutorial on how to use it with Chief.
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You said:
First thing I did was make sure the heights are matching for the Porch / Open to Below, as well as the floor finish / structure.
Uncheck Sil Plate in the railing specifications. Did you uncheck sill plate because you did a concrete slab and foundation? My build is deck construction of 2X8, 1" decking, with piers and post foundatiion.
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22 minutes ago, Ange822 said:
Hi Bob, I tried to fix it as best as I could. Only the front beam won't connect there is a small space you may need a polyline solid to fill it in.
It seemed like you had too many steps so I made it the minimum number just over 7" riser height. New file attached, hope it helps!
NEW FRONT PORCH ADDITION 1256 BLOOMERY ROAD - New.zip 1.18 MB · 1 download
Angela, that does look better than what I've be able to do so far. Not sure how you got it to this point, I can't open the file, as I am running X12 not worth the cost to upgrade, but thanks!
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Working on adding a deck and roof to the this house. There so many little nuances trying to figure out why the deck floor and foundation doesn't show even through I did build (foundation / framing) and best I can tell told the software to auto build-rebuild and for some reason the ceiling won't generate properly even though I set the room height, and checked roof above and un-checked ceiling above.
I want the steps to "inset" into the deck, so; do I create a separate deck room there and call it open below, in order to have the beam extend out to the edge of the steps? EDIT: I thought since there is a roof over the steps the software would read it that way-no. So, I added invisible walls around the steps, called that room open below (suppressed the label) and a ceiling now generates over the steps, but still appears too low.
I selected the invisible wall at the top of the steps and made it a railing with balusters (checked invisible) but the post to beam still does not extend over the steps. I wouldn't think I'd have to to a 3D solid to have it generate the beam, and post on out to the corner of the deck?
Help appreciated!
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Ji- I certainly didn't expect you to do all this!!!! Looks like if I raise the roof pitch to 12/12 would fix the header over the landing. I'm calling this one solved with your gracious help and expertese with the Soft-ware.
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The co wants $250 for drawings. All he needs them for is to hand over to the HOA (they want to see the esthetics, and since I'm his uncle he wanted a freebee, and I've only spent about 30 mins on the drawing thus far. I was playing around on my own time to see how hard it would be to model the typical structural support. I've done that but can't get it to insert in the floor plan. Having fun on my part that's all.
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i need to model metal building (structure system) the kind you by and they deliver and set up. There is reason behind this madness. I have made the structural support from a 3D molding poly line and have it shaped and sized as needed and added to my library as "hardware" for lack of (a better option) now. Problem is I can stick as many as I want on the plan in elevation, but I haven't figured out how to rotate it to place it in floor plan view. Since we have to draw walls using the build exterior wall tool I attempted modeling a new wall type but the item needs editing and that option doesn't appear to be available in X12. what other options would you propose? The frame if 14ga square tube 2.5"X2.5". I wasn't planning on going so far as to model connectors, splices or any such, if I can just get the symbol so I can place it in plan view if I am not able to edited the wall type to include it in the materials.
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Take a look at this tutorial and see if it offer's any help. https://www.chiefarchitect.com/videos/watch/1605/ to build the room.
I needed to build attic space without adding an additional floor. This helped me accomplish it.
For the ceiling you might also try using a ceiling plane (I've done that before) to drop a ceiling under the trusses, but of course I think you'd have to raise (maybe not) your walls enough to give you the extra space (the tool=build>roof>ceiling planes)
In order to do an example, I selected a room, open the dbx unchecked flat ceiling in that room, and then build>roof (tool)>ceiling plane. Set the pitch to zero (locked it) and height from finished floor in my case 84". Hopefully one of these options can help you figure it out.
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13 hours ago, JiAngelo said:
Bob,
I am still on X16. I've dabbled with X17, but it doesn't excite me. I've attached the updated file. Version 3 is using your perimeter walls, Version 4 is using a 16" truss heel height. I abbreviated your file name.
I forgot to answer your original question. You didn't have auto-roofs turned on. That's why the roofs weren't changing to hip. When I turned it on it said you had some edited roofs which it deleted and redrew as all hips.
Also, ignore top floor won't work with dormers (because it is ignoring top floor.) And I just realized you have floor to ceiling windows, which means you need a floor above to place headers over the exterior openings on the second floor. (or you need a raised heel height for trusses to hang on those headers.)
I went back to the second file you'd sent me. I unchecked ignore top floor, changed 12" ceiling height to 1-1/2" (basically a 2x6 sill atop the floor structure.) And then turned on auto roofs. (for version 3)
In version 4 I changed your heel height to 16", deleted the perimeter walls and only used the dormer walls, adjusted to fit under the side roof planes. This version has the roof building off the outer walls +16". In both I extended the roof down over the stairwell to encapsulated it within the roof planes. (I trimmed those walls to 6" overhang so that it didn't project past the Hip ridge. The dormer is drawn at 97 3/8" ceiling height. I didn't want to mess with the 60" knee walls until you had stairwell figured out. In V4 I went ahead and built some room trusses along the main area, using a quadruple truss where the dormer starts to thrust out. I also created a cross section to make sure the stair height was equal or greater to 81" nosing to ceiling. It looks like you may need to raise that heel height to 18" or 20". V3 will build the roof trusses on top of the 3rd floor. (another downfall of that method.)
In both I tried extending the dormer to the rear of the home, but it is not centered on the door below, and can't cantilever past since there is no header below to carry the load.
Take a look, I hope this helps guide you.
CR WILLIAMS for CTF3.zip 3.19 MB · 0 downloads CR WILLIAMS for CTF4.zip 3.17 MB · 0 downloads
Thanks for your intense help however, I am unable to open the files as I'm running X12 and I can't without upgrading to the newer version of Chief and it's not worth the expense.
Also, you said (And I just realized you have floor to ceiling windows, which means you need a floor above to place headers over the exterior openings on the second floor. (or you need a raised heel height for trusses to hang on those headers.) I’d planned to use I-joist or floor trusses to add support over the windows. When our Engineer provides his comments/structuraldesign, I will most likely need to drop the window heights to adjust for heavier headers.
I went back to the second file you'd sent me. I unchecked ignore top floor, changed 12" ceiling height to 1-1/2" (basically a 2x6 sill atop the floor structure.) And then turned on autoroofs. (for version 3) I used an auto-floating dormer on my latest rendition and was going to add framing later to frame the opening but for now I’ve got to figure out how to create an access to a small observation platform via doors in the dormer in lieu of windows. That will require some playing with the software if I can figure it out at all! I advised them we are already at max allowable height and the inspector may not like that idea plus it adds another opportunity for roof leaks.
In version 4 I changed your heel height to 16", deleted the perimeter walls and only used the dormer walls, adjusted to fit under the side roof planes. This version has the roof building off the outer walls +16". In both, I extended the roof down over the stairwell to encapsulated it within the roof planes. Obviously, you are more “experienced” with the software and since I’ve never been as deeply involved with using the various tools, I’m not quite sure how to do the things you mention here?
again, thanks for your time and help!
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Still working on the Coastal res for the boss. He and wife want access onto what would be the floor of the attic and out through a dormer onto a small observation platform / deck. I dropped in a floating dormer, but I am not able to turn it into something like a roof top balcony with access via the dormer room. Since I added the dormer on the roof, it is (showing) on the attic level and I am not sure if I need to go down to the floor below which currently I do not have any walls placed. I built the attic using the tutorial for building a story and a half room. How would you model the "observation deck" and access?
COASTAL RESIDENCE FOR CECIL and HELEN WILLIAMS OPTION WITH DORMER DECK FOR CHIEF FORUM.zip
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After changing my end walls (2) to gable and being directed to change them back to HIP style, one of the end walls changed back to HIP, but the other refuses to, even though under those walls' DBX I changed it to HIP. I know the software is MUCH smarter than I. Help please.
COASTAL RESIDENCE FOR CECIL and HELEN WILLIAMS for CHIEF TALK FORUM.zip
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11 hours ago, JiAngelo said:
Just to clarify,
Is your maximum building height 35'? And are you trying to use all of the 3rd floor?
I ask because you've built your 3rd floor directly over your second floor perimeter walls. The room defaults to 12" tall. It should default to 109 3/8" or similar if you are ignoring top floor.
Typically you check ignore 3rd floor because you want the roof built on top of the 2nd floor walls and somewhere inside this rooftop you plan to place an attic area inside of trusses.
Here's a plan I'm working on now. The red lines are my truss control lines. The blue lines define a 5' kneewall that slopes to 8' ceilings on the left side of the house and 9' ceilings on the right side of the house. The blue lines are my attic room limits. If my roof was hipped, I'd have a red outer box and a blue inner box over this same area.
Here's my room trusses Red is 9' ceiling area, White is 8' ceiling area, Blue is the 8' ceiling area for the shorter trusses on the left. I did this to stay under 35' from the front door sill which is our area's requirement.
Applying this logic to your current model results in the following. I used an 8/12 pitch to determine where my 5' kneewalls and 8' ceiling heights would be within this hipped area. This assumes you are permitted 32' 9" to the ridge.
And a 9/12 pitch would widen the room areas, but the highest ridge is then 34' 6". Is that allowed?
Also, notice you have a couple of greater problems.
- Your stairwell & door are in the wrong place. That's not where stairs up from below lands. I've drawn the correct location above with a note.
- The correct location also requires 81" ceiling minimum at the top of the steps and all hips won't achieve that at 8/12 or 9/12.
Here's a 3D cross section at 5' high. Again the 2nd door needs to fall under the roof line.
Here's a dormer drawn to capture the 2nd door (I've deleted the first.) The interior shot shows 5' kneewalls rising to 8' ceiling plane.
Notice the door still cuts the exterior roof plane. You can widen the dormer and extend the roofline down (cathedral into the stairwell), but its hard to mirror that look on the other side because the two gables bumps aren't equilateral.
If you could give me a bit more direction, like max height and what usable room space you are trying to achieve, I can work through it with you. I would also assume you want a rear dormer overlooking the view from the deck.
Let me know your thoughts.
John, thanks for the detailed response. Note: this is the only tutorial I could find that addressed my issue of building a room in the attic without adding a full third floor, which is my goal-Designing a One-and-a-Half Story Roof - Video | Chief Architect and according to that Tut I needed to set the height low, thus 12" knee wall.
(YOU SAID: I would also assume you want a rear dormer overlooking the view from the deck.) Yes, I now have a space (room) I can use (if needed) but the intent is the boss wants to use it to add a balcony over-look where you have drawn the dormer (facing the water). He already has so much deck but insist on having that one extra spot to go out onto to look at the "sunsets". He will probably add the walls to enclose the space about +/-17' wide and the length is whatever he can get and may-may not finish it.
That said, I basically have the area / attic space to work in. The main issue now is I couldn't get the walls on the end of the house away from the water to be "hip" style (although I have "HIP" selected for those walls) even after checking them to be hip. I am surprised that you were able to. Also, I may be able to go with a 12/12 pitch if the jurisdiction will allow. I'm waiting to hear from the building inspector to confirm the max-height. Can you send the file back to me or did you overwrite it in X17?
Thanks again, regards!
Help with sloped floor
in General Q & A
Posted
Well, it didn't work for me and I can't figure out why? I set the heights in the existing foyer the way it appears you have them set in the file you did.
PLC ADDITION.plan