CharlesVolz

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Posts posted by CharlesVolz

  1. Howdy Robert,

    Nowadays, with a good survey (including topo and tree surveys, if necessary), Google Earth, US geological survey maps, etc., it has become less important to be able to walk a site. I usually meet the client and walk the site only once at the beginning of a job and only if the site is within an hour or two from my office. 

     

    One client hired me because I am 30 minutes away from where they lived and 2 1/2 hours from the building site. I designed a large home and a boat barn on the Texas coast for them and never met them until some 10 years later when they hired me to design another home for them which was closer to me.

     

    I have designed or helped design homes all over the United States, Canada, England, New Zealand, etc. and have not had the any problems with me not being local. I do avoid the worst of the worse, like Southern California unless I am helping another designer or hire out the energy calcs etc. Most governing authorities have their code requirements on a website and most use the IRC code or modification thereof.

     

    Just my thoughts,

    Charles

  2. On 9/28/2018 at 11:50 AM, WAGSDSN35 said:

    Hi Chief users.  I have a simple quick question here.  I know of course sq. ft. is calculated & labeled on our flr. plans.  I want to be able to calc. manually & for the life of me am not able to find where to do that.  Also, when it is calc'd out automatic, is it from the interior or exterior perimeter?

    Howdy Jim,

     

    It depends on your settings. In X10 go to Default Settings/Plan/Living Area and you can select Main Layer or Surface. 

     

    Manually, what I do is use the Make Room Polyline tool as above. Just make sure the polyline is outlining what you want.

     

  3. Howdy Bob,

    What I do is create my own library of plumbing items. Then open each item in the library and change their layer to "plumbing". The next time use them they will be on the correct layer for you.

     

    Regards,

    Charles

  4. Adam is correct. 

     

    Stephen, what we are saying is that when you mull 2 windows with no casing on them that you will get a mulled unit with interior and exterior casing and then have to take the extra step to remove the casing.

  5. The landing size and type depend on the space that you want to allocate to it. The code requires a minimum 36" landing in the path of travel, but you'll also want to cover your door openings. One thing I'd consider doing is moving your exterior doors closer to the adjoining wall and resizing your opening to the kitchen so that the doors don't overlap the door opening or the casing as in the 1st pict. Then you could place your steps on the left side a landing to minimize the footprint as in the 2nd pict. Note that you have to cover the sliding door opening but not the fixed glass side.

     

    If you want to make the steps a little nicer and use up more space, you could you could wrap the steps around the top and left sides and/or you could round off the left top corner of the landing and round the steps.

     

    Regards,

    Charles

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  6. Larry, it seems you deck planks are fighting for space. The plank fills in if you give it room per the first 2 picts (where the planks are told to align with the larger deck area) or if you create a separate deck the second 2 picts (where the planks are not told to align).

     

    Regards,

    Charles

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