Dennis_Gavin

Perry - no mosquitos so far and only one bad storm, 1 hour or so of heavy rain.  But it's early.

I'm sure i'll have many to experience.

Oh, BTW, did you read that they expect the San Adres Fault to move BIG TIME very soon?

Slip sliding away..........;o)

California can't do Pizzas OR Cheese Steaks!

BTW - you know what CALIF stands for?

Come And Live In Florida!   ;o)   (just moved to The Villages, Florida. Can you tell?)

don't use a molding on the cabinets but instead use a molding polyline.

very nice. Thank you!

here are a couple

access panels.calibz

Post the plan. Make sure to close it first.

Looking good!  They are going to love it!

Thanks for sharing.

Ambient lighting is set via the 3D view defaults at the bottom of the list.  I am referring primarily to the interior setting.

IF items appear to gray increase the emissive setting in the material settings for that item.  In real life white are usually not real white.

You may want to alter the color a little with a hint of yellow etc.  NOt making it look yellow but more of an off white or cream.  IT is

an art form so be patient and go with what you see on screen.  Be aware light settings for a standard render and a ray trace will

most likely be different.  ALso photons versus no photons.

I was just kidding but I think the light bleed problem goes further that that. 

Will that stop the light bellding in ray trace?   ;o)

Jesse,

   THere are many attributes to a ray trace.  THe most important is lighting.  Your scene has way too much lighting, way too bright.

I would start by turning off all lights escept for one 3d POINT LIGHT IN THE MIDDLE OF THE ROOM SET AT ABOUT 40 AND A HEIGHT

OF 60" OFF THE FLOOR.  Just to see how it looks compared to what you have.  You can fake light looking like they are on by turning the

emissive setting up for the light fixtures glass to about 80.  Ray trace is not like real life turning lights on and off.  IT takes experimentation.

You may also want to adjust the ambient light in the rrom.  Play around with different settings and amount of lights on/off and there

intensity to see what you like.

If you have an on board video card as well as an additional one like Nvidia etc. Chief may not be selected to use the better video card.

Is that for a guy who owns a stretch limo service?  Stretch vanity?

I will get it for the texture.  Thanks Dave.

Note - setttings for standard render and Ray Traces will probably be different.  You just have to fuss to get what you want.

Now if we can just find Tom Sawyer!

might be easier to just do manually??? 

Yes.  Thanks Dennis.   That magazine rack was the selling point of the project

yeah, I'm sure!  ha,ha

Rob - nice work.  Might want to turn off shadows for the chandalier in the bath.  Also, I see you used my magazine rack/ toilet paper holder.

First time I've seen that used!  ;o)

Right now I am considering MONEY!  Trying not to create a massively expensive project. 

There will be a civil engineer involved to some degree.  A friend of the owner.  Just not sure

to what degree as I do not know him but trying to connect with him now.

But who knows it might go that way.......

Jeff - yes, you have it.  The slope is not great but the owner had 4 sumps in his existing basement and they

all run.  I am worried about the township not allowing the builder to pour into a wet/soggy footing and the deeper

they go the greater the chance.  Planning on going down the minimal amount and back filling to overcome frost line.

Thanks for your input!

What if it's night time?  

Sorry, couldn't resist.  That is what I am looking for.

Can Joe & Perry confirm?

I think 1 to 1 is it.  Footing sits 1' below grade to bottom of footing.  The fill would have to b2 2'

and extend out 2' before sloping away from the foundation.

DIrt and wood are not an issue.  I think the answer is about the same as footing depth on a sloped terrain. 

There is a ratio of how far down the footing has to go to overcome a steep terrain. Can't remember what

ratio/formula is.

I am working on an addition that has a high water table and I want to AVOID it.

Looking at placing footings bascially just below grade and then using back fill to get

my 36" footing depth.  Does anyone know how far out the 36" back fill  has to be from the addition

to qualify as 36" delow grade?  IT will then taper down to existing grade.