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  1. Yeah, definitely seems odd that they would require that. especially in a separate room. I even looked at the list of other hazardous locations defined in the code, and none of them seemed likely to even be possible in that scenario you described. (less than 18" to floor, less than 24" from a door, adjacent to walking surface, ramp or stairs etc.)
  2. I haven't run into that specific situation before, but it sounds to me like that inspector is either mis-interpreting the code, or over asserting his/her authority. I took a quick look at the IRC, 2015 edition since that's what Pennsylvania currently has adopted, and didn't find any mention of toilets being listed a a "hazardous area" requiring safety glazing. I was specifically looking at R 308.4.5 Glazing and Wet Surfaces. My interpretation of that section is basically anything closer than 60 inches to a bathtub or shower would require tempered glass. Does that window you are discussing fall within that limitation perhaps?
  3. Found one here. Its a SketchUp skp file. I was able to import it into X-11 without much fuss. https://www.cadblocksfree.com/en/two-post-car-lift.html I also found this one on 3D Warehouse as @solver had mentioned. Just did a quick search for 2 post automotive lift. This one imported nicer than the first one listed above. Also a SketchUp skp file. https://3dwarehouse.sketchup.com/model/b7d9167a66bdace238466a8fc2c16ba7/Rotary-2-Post-Symmetric-Auto-Lift
  4. dscaddoo


    I purchased the HP T120 a few years back. I am a remodeling contractor and draft the plans I need for my own work, mainly kitchens, basements and additions, so I cant speak to higher volume use, but it has been serving me quite well. Definitely worth not having to go to Staples and paying $4-6 per Arch D page. I keep the rear tray filled with 11x17 sheets, ad then also keep a 24" roll installed. Loading and unloading the roll as needed. I definitely recommend getting the stand. Its wheeled and has a nice outfeed basket. From what I can tell the T520 is essentially the same printer with slightly better resolution, little faster, and includes the stand. Had I been able to afford it at the time I probably would have gone with it. From all the information and reviews I read at the time I got mine it seems that HP made these printers specifically for the needs of the CAD/GIS market. Most online reviews were from either architects or engineers. One thing to watch for when shopping for either is shipping. Its a pretty big box with some weight to it. Some places may have a lower price, but hit you for freight. I got mine from B&H photo, and they have free expedited shipping on the 120, and a reasonable freight charge on the 520.
  5. My Laptop screen is 4k (3840x2160), I have the display scaling set to 200% in display settings, so everything is sized if it were normal HD (1920x1080), but appears much sharper. Haven't used multiple monitors or a 4k tv so I can't comment on that.
  6. The code book is such great reading material too
  7. For regular dimensional lumber its is all in the IRC. There are span tables for floor joists, and also for girders (beams). Foundations are chapter 4, and floor structure is chapter 5. It can be viewed online for free here, just pick your state on the map and it will link you to the applicable codes to search. https://codes.iccsafe.org/public/ I joists and LVL's are a different story though. Those are usually speced by the supplier or manufacturer.
  8. ScarlettBelle This is also how I would imagine it being done. Around here it would probably be LVL beams with support posts 8' on center or so, but there are many ways to reach a code approved solution.
  9. All good advice. Consulting with an engineer local to the area you'll be building would be money well spent for peace of mind. Also a meeting with the building official/inspector of the town would be good as well. Every state and town has their own regulations. Here in PA we go by what they call the Uniform Construction Code, which is basically just state wide adoption of the ICC codes (IRC, IBC, etc.) Currently we are going by the 2009 editions, with a few amendments. Each municipality then may have a few of their own amendments, but it isn't usually drastically different. I am a remodeling contractor, not an architect or design professional, so the design I do is limited to only projects I build for my customers, which are mostly finished basements, additions, kitchens and other interior alterations. We don't deal with seismic or high wind here, so there isn't anything drastic needed structurally. The worst we have is snow loads to deal with, and each town has their design load requirements for that. For the residential work I do typically the home owner or contractor is allowed to prepare plans, and if the design follows the prescriptive methods in the code, then an engineer isn't needed at all. Typically structural engineers are only needed for use of steel beams or things way outside of the norm. Engineered lumber beams, and I joist floor and roof systems are designed by the engineers at the suppliers of those. Roof and floor trusses is similar, that the engineers of the truss fabricator design and prepare the framing plans for those. Commercial work is a different story. Just about everything commercial must be designed by an architect or engineer, and structural and mechanical systems are designed by engineers of the appropriate disciplines.
  10. I'm guessing the pony walls you refer to are the short wall segments on the framing plan? Here in my area, Pennsylvania, stem wall foundations are the norm due to our frost depth. Typically full basements in new homes, and crawlspaces are more common for additions. Usually rather than wall segments, a continuous beam with support columns is the way its done around here. The most common around here is a steel I-beam with steel pipe columns. Engineered lumber is also very common, typically LVL's or glue lams since that's what the suppliers here stock. Judging by the notations it looks like you plan to use I-Joists? Not sure how it works in your area, but around here the I-joist supplier will come up with the floor framing plan. We submit floor plans to the lumberyard, and they forward them to the engineered lumber suppliers, whose staff engineers prepare the framing plan and framing package. They will usually determine spacing, beams needed, rim board material, and also any hardware such as joist hangers that are needed, and provide an engineer stamped framing plan for building permit submission.
  11. In my neck of the woods its typically done the same way @chief58 has described. I am also from PA. USG calls it an area separation wall assembly and has some pretty good literature available on their website. I'll include the link. They are designed such that one of the units can completely collapse in a fire, and the firewall should remain relatively intact so as to minimize damage to adjoining units. USG has an article describing a case just like that. I used it on an addition i built on a twin home a few years back, and it is a simple and effective way to construct a separation. Easily installed by carpenters as the building is being framed. I'll attach some photos of it during construction. Another typical detail on townhouses around here is to use fire treated plywood sheathing on the exterior walls and roof surface for a minimum of 4' on either side of the firewall. Section R-302 of the IRC goes over everything in great detail. One homebuilder around here uses an 8" concrete bock wall as the firewall between units. Key is for whatever system you choose is that its continuous from the foundation to the underside of the roof sheathing, and from exterior sheathing to exterior sheathing. https://www.usg.com/content/usgcom/en/products-solutions/products/wallboard/wall-systems/usg-area-separation-wall-system.html
  12. @kzuiderveld,I am renting to own as well. I'm pretty sure it will work for you like you said in one of your previous posts. On your renewal date that is. My payment was processed yesterday, so my SSA renewal now shows valid to 2/17/2017, and I was able to download X9 today and am installing it on my computers now. Frustrating I know, that you will have to wait another week and a half to get it. But once you get there I'm pretty confident it will be smooth sailing.
  13. It should work just fine. I have X7 and X8 running on my Surface 3 LTE. The non pro Surface, without any difficulty at all. Its got the quad core Atom processor, and 4gb of ram. I use it mainly for getting existing measurements entered right on site, and then for the customer presentation. It might be a bit slower than my full laptop or desktop, but gets the job done just fine. I use the type cover and a small Bluetooth mouse, I have experimented using the pen to draw right on the screen, and that seems to work alright, however I prefer a mouse.
  14. I have X7 running, and just began experimenting with X8 on my Surface 3 LTE, and everything seems to work fine. Maybe just a little slower than my main laptop or desktop. Note, I don't have the pro version Surface, I have its little brother with the 10 inch screen, Atom processor and 4gb of ram. I use it with the type cover and a small Bluetooth mouse. I've experimented using the pen, and it seems to work, just I am more accustomed to using a mouse. I would think any Pro version surface, 3 or 4 would work just fine since they can be configured with a more powerful processor and more ram. I'll use mine to get existing measurements entered right on site, and then for customer presentations. Get as high of specs as you can afford, since todays top end somehow ends up being next weeks minimum requirements. Also consider its intended role, a supplemental device as I am using, or as your primary device to do the bulk of your work.