Simple (I hope) auto-roof question


MtGipe
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Yeah...I went that direction initially, but the gable overhang will not reduce. The house end wall is broken to achieve the front gable portion (in the distance). It seems that the wall break will not allow the gable wall to reduce the overhang with auto settings for some reason.

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Here's the .plan file. (my apologies for not sharing this initially).

 

I've tried all the normal auto-roof work-arounds (and default or specific wall settings, as well as roof gable lines) that I know but can't seem to make this simple roof type render correct

 

For context: I do conceptual design with the builder/client looking over my shoulder vie Zoom and as such, I fight really hard to keep auto-roof settings on (as well as auto deck framing, etc...). Some projects we advise the client to overlook small rendering discrepancies to allow us to chow them options quickly via auto-settings being on.

 

This may be case for this one as well, but it looked so simple to me that I was sure there'd be a quick way to direct the software to reduce the gable overhang and box the eave overhang....

Job-3225 Pat and Sid Johnson - AUTO.zip

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@RenerabbittWow! This opens up a whole new world (a bit). I've played a round...and as soon as a I pull the baseline in for the reduced overhang I lose my 5:12 front to back gable (see the attached). Am I missing something simple? (probably)

 

And if it's easier to point me to a more in depth video or resource, that works well too. Thanks for your help! (I read an article from Chief on them to get me this far)

Job-3225 Pat and Sid Johnson - AUTO.zip

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6 hours ago, MtGipe said:

@RenerabbittWow! This opens up a whole new world (a bit). I've played a round...and as soon as a I pull the baseline in for the reduced overhang I lose my 5:12 front to back gable (see the attached). Am I missing something simple? (probably)

 

And if it's easier to point me to a more in depth video or resource, that works well too. Thanks for your help! (I read an article from Chief on them to get me this far)

Job-3225 Pat and Sid Johnson - AUTO.zip 2.76 MB · 0 downloads

Is there a reason you aren't just switching to a manually drawn roof to finish up? Probably a lot faster than trying to coax auto-build

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23 hours ago, Renerabbitt said:

Is there a reason you aren't just switching to a manually drawn roof to finish up? Probably a lot faster than trying to coax auto-build

I'm starting to see that manual finish-up is the best route with this kind of roof system. I was hopeful that it was a simple setting I was missing, but clearly it's not. No worries! 

Thanks so much for your responses and the info. Very helpful!

 

More to you question: I work like crazy to keep auto settings on in as many ways possible as because the model like the one you see is the starting point for conceptual design with the clients (and builder) looking over my shoulder virtually (via zoom).

 

Keeping as many auto settings on as possible allows me to make large scale changes to exterior decks, roof systems, room additions, etc... on the fly while also keeping the project constructible and within budget for the builder. (peak lines interacting with existing ridgelines, valleys...places where a cricket will be necessary...not enough header space for beams unless we shorten newel spacing, etc...)

 

Thanks again!

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59 minutes ago, MtGipe said:

Keeping as many auto settings on as possible allows me to make large scale changes to exterior decks, roof systems, room additions, etc... on the fly while also keeping the project constructible and within budget for the builder. (peak lines interacting with existing ridgelines, valleys...places where a cricket will be necessary...not enough header space for beams unless we shorten newel spacing, etc...)

I really only detail exterior roofs on office time, and like you, I would keep auto on otherwise

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