Orchard Posted April 11, 2017 Share Posted April 11, 2017 Not sure if this is the correct forum, but here goes. Does anybody know where CAD details for the REMOTE wall system can be obtained? The CCHRC REMOTE manual has some nice examples of cross sections but wondering if anybody has used or recreated in CA? http://cchrc.org/docs/best_practices/REMOTE_Manual.pdf Cheers, Tim Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alaskan_Son Posted April 11, 2017 Share Posted April 11, 2017 I don't have any CAD details for it in Chief but we have worked with the REMOTE wall system. It shouldn't be too difficult for you to draw up your own details. The real key is just careful planning and detailing to keep that exterior membrane and insulation CONTINUOUS for the entire envelope...bottom of foundation and wrapping up all the way over the ceiling...that and careful air sealing. Additionally, you'll want to give careful thought to window and door placement along exterior walls to allow for the extra thickness of the foam, furring strips, siding, trim, etc. Not every design can be converted to the REMOTE wall system for this reason. Also give careful thought to window and door placement within the wall assembly. The REMOTE wall system will require some unique window details. If you're in a cold climate I would personally encourage you to keep your windows further toward the interior of the building in order to keep them warmer and therefore reduce any possible condensation problems. Anyway, I know that wasn't exactly your question but I thought I'd throw a few tips out there. EDIT: After giving this a little more thought it occurred to me that if you're going to utilize the system, you're really probably going to want (if not need) to draw up most of your own CAD details anyway. The details can vary greatly from one house to the next depending on foundation type, exterior attachments, roof type, exterior framed wall thickness, sheathing thickness, exterior membrane type, exterior insulation type and thickness, window bucking details, siding type and thickness, furring strip type and thickness (if any), etc. There are really just a lot of variables. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Orchard Posted April 12, 2017 Author Share Posted April 12, 2017 Thanks for the feedback much appreciated. I suspected as much for the details. I have to say though that the manual is an exceptional resource and pretty much covers every aspect. A good guidebook. If I could pick your brain, how was your experience with REMOTE? It seems to have distinct advantages, especially in cold climates (my project is in WA). Was the learning curve for the builder/framers (too) high? Did you utilize EPS or EPS? Quote Additionally, you'll want to give careful thought to window and door placement along exterior walls to allow for the extra thickness of the foam, furring strips, siding, trim, etc Assuming this relates mostly to distance to inside corners Quote If you're in a cold climate I would personally encourage you to keep your windows further toward the interior of the building in order to keep them warmer and therefore reduce any possible condensation problems. Thanks, I had already planned for/window doors to be on the main layer (inset), thus keeping a continuous drainage plain Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alaskan_Son Posted April 12, 2017 Share Posted April 12, 2017 10 minutes ago, Orchard said: If I could pick your brain, how was your experience with REMOTE? It seems to have distinct advantages, especially in cold climates (my project is in WA). Was the learning curve for the builder/framers (too) high? Did you utilize EPS or EPS? Actually, if I recall correctly, we WERE the framer the first time I actually had firsthand experience with the system. It was an extremely complicated house too. Check out the pictures of the "RoseBerry Ridge Home"... http://www.rdesigninc.com/portfolio.html The learning curve was not bad though. I would definitely recommend a supervisor onsite that has a very clear understanding of what needs to happen though. There are many steps along the way where you'll find that your exterior membrane and/or insulation will need to be installed after one framing item but before the next. You'll almost need to have an extra person onsite a lot of the time specifically to coordinate and install those various items as necessary. And you didn't give me a whole lot of options between EPS and EPS : ) but yes, we use EPS. 20 minutes ago, Orchard said: Assuming this relates mostly to distance to inside corners That is correct although the extreme thickness may also cause you to want to move windows and doors elsewhere in order to visually balance/center them. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CJSpud Posted April 12, 2017 Share Posted April 12, 2017 Why not ICF it all the way to the roof ... skip the monkeying around with all those different layers??? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Orchard Posted April 12, 2017 Author Share Posted April 12, 2017 Thanks again Alaska_Son! Quote "RoseBerry Ridge Home". Looks amazing! Quote And you didn't give me a whole lot of options between EPS and EPS : ) but yes, we use EPS. Sorry, I meant XPS vs. EPS. The value proposition is definitely with EPS though. 8 minutes ago, CJSpud said: Why not ICF it all the way to the roof ... skip the monkeying around with all those different layers??? I considered it but not many ICF builders in WA state, almost everything is stick here and so is most of the knowledge, practices and experience. Abundant wood and perhaps living on an earthquake fault line probably factor into this. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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