tundra_dweller

I'm totally guessing here, but if you are trying to put an angle on your fascia (for example a gable end not having plumb and square cut fascia) I would think you could create a molding profile that is triangle shaped, and sized according to your fascia size and how much of an angle you want on it, then apply that molding profile as a shadow board to whatever roof edges you want it on. I have never done or tried this, but I think it would work, with some trial and error.

I see there's more of an offset between the dimension # and the line in the X16 version. Seems to only affect the short dimensions, and only the vertically oriented string. Something definitely wonky there it seems, and if I had to guess it would have to do with new dimension leader lines, as Doug kind of alluded to.

Good catch.

Good deal. For future reference I'm pretty sure it is possible to make triangle windows using the shape tab in the window dbx and adjusting the individual corner heights & offsets too.

I think the overlapping casing might fix itself if you mull the windows together.

If you have the Marvin window catalog downloaded in Chief there are triangle windows in there if you search for P3-1 & P3-2. You should be able to adjust the width & height to match your pitch, or the match roof function might work too. @winterdd

Interesting...definitely keeping my eye on this.

Or if you really really don't want to add a 2nd floor and the vertical stacking option doesn't do it for you, you could save a copy of the plan and remove the upper windows and use that 1st floor plan on your layout when you're all done. Not a great solution though. 

23 minutes ago, capitaldesigns said:

It looks like I will have to draw this room as a 2 story and designate it as open to below.

Yeah that's really the only way you can do it unless you can paste them in the attic level at the same absolute elevation. And that's if you have any attic walls, which you probably don't if you're balloon framing your walls.

6 minutes ago, capitaldesigns said:

How would you show a clear story window over a front door and 2 side lights windows ? You do not want the clear story window to show on the floor plan. That would place a window symbol over the door symbol. That would be confusing when reading the plans.

Here's an example of something similar I'm working on right now.

Here is the bottom row of windows on the main floor plan:

Here are the upper two rows of windows on the upper level plan. They're the same width so you don't see that there's two levels of windows, but I separate the labels so the upper window labels are further away from the wall, this works for me.

There's also an option in the window dbx where you can designate vertical stacking levels, which makes the upper windows a couple shades lighter on the floor plan, you could see what that does for you.

Assuming your turret is made using multiple floor levels (1st, 2nd, etc.) you should be able to copy/paste/hold position from the lower floor to an upper floor or even the attic level. If you do I think you'll want to change the elevation reference in those windows to "absolute" instead of "from floor" before copy/pasting.

Good evening Jim, It should be entirely possible to auto roof this using invisible walls with room definition properties, or if you want to dive a little deeper check out Roof Baseline Polylines in the help files.

I would probably use a hybrid method of auto roof to start and then turn off auto roof and manually adjust the roof edges as needed. I would probably use a normal exterior wall to define the outermost boundaries of the roof, then turn off auto roof and adjust manually from there.

Definitely seems like something strange going on. Also If you take an east-west backclipped section you get the terrain line cut off on the high side near the foundation.

4 hours ago, BerthaLee said:

I have, however, then the brick is too tall. It shows in the diagram that its the right height, but look at the picture. It's about 4'.

Try the attached adjusted plan, I think this might be what you're looking for.

Because you have all your foundation walls set to balloon through ceiling above (essentially hanging your floor system inside the foundation), even though your stem walls are set to 37.5", they are automatically building 12.625" taller than that to balloon through to the floor above. So I subtracted 12.625" from your stemwall height, which makes the overall stemwall height 37.5".

The two garage walls that aren't immediately adjacent to the main floor system still won't build to the height you want, so I edited those two framed walls on the main floor to have a pony wall type the same as your foundation wall, and set the pony wall elevation to 0", which makes the tops of those pony walls the same level as the rest of the foundation walls.

The only other thing I did was change the sill plate dimension in your default foundation wall to a 2x8 instead of the 8x8 it was set at.

Hopefully this helps.

Oneal adjusted x15.zip

@BerthaLee  Hi Susan, try changing the floor elevation and stemwall settings in the garage foundation room to what's shown in the picture below, that seemed to work for me.

45 minutes ago, GeneDavis said:

What are the best new things?

Leader lines for dimensions in tight spaces. Now we just need the ability to place additional text above or below the dimension numbers.

Girder truss lines and roof truss direction lines. Makes for much better control of auto truss framing results.

Poche fill options, nice for clean & simple section views.

The ability to dimension to and move individual railing newel posts. Definitely an improvement but I still find myself building post & beam porches manually with framing members for finer control.

Action history "browser" for undoing/redoing multiple commands at once.

Those are my favorite new features that I've had a chance to use, I'm sure I'm missing some and haven't found some yet. Nothing groundbreaking but some nice improvements overall.

***Also, some nice improvements to deck framing like flush beams and finer control of beam & post placement.

2 hours ago, JKEdmo said:

Tested one workaround that seems okay.  Select and make all project walls non-schedule-able.  Draw some full-height sample walls off to the side that report to schedule.  Seems to work, but unsure if this is worth it in the end...

 

Result:

 

That seems like a pretty good solution to me. I might be wrong but I think you can paint wall types from the user library, so if you had a catalog of wall types saved in your library you could paint your sample walls to suit whatever your different plan walls are.

4 minutes ago, JKEdmo said:

I'm just looking to have my dynamic wall schedule not display pony walls below, which is distracting / misleading IMO.  To confirm, there is no way to have the wall schedule ignore pony walls and just display full-height walls only?  I tried Doug's solution, but seemed global.

I think I ran into the same thing as you are with pony walls and walls with footings a while back when trying to put together a dynamic wall schedule, and that's when I decided to just use a generic wall legend cad detail. I couldn't find a solution at the time, but you may be more persistent than I was.

@JKEdmo Sounds like you haven't played around with schedules in Chief much so you may not be aware that you can open up your schedule and select which items you want included in each different schedule.

Another thing you can do is have a separate "master" plan file that contains your commonly used walls and create a "wall legend" schedule and put it in a cad detail that you can send to your layouts in any plan. That way you can make the walls look however you want and call them whatever you want and they won't affect your working plans. You could make several wall legends from your one master plan depending on which wall types you're using on your working plan.

19 minutes ago, djhplanning said:

Thanks for taking a look Brett!  I truly appreciate it.  You must be using X16 so I will have to upgrade so I can open the attached file.  I think some of the issue too is the post frame wall style I am using.  But this also happens when using just a normal 2x6 exterior wall so I don't know.  

I didn't think about what version you were using, sorry about that. There's an X15 version attached.

If you open up the roof specs for each roof plane you'll see that in the structure tab I changed the fascia from 1-1/2"x6" to 1/16"x6".

That takes care of the open ended soffit box, but you still get the siding & fascia materials fighting to be seen. For that I went into the materials tab and changed "Flush Eave" to white and that seemed to work.

I ran into this problem myself today on a plan that has standard wall framing and 24" overhangs with flush eaves. Can't for the life of me get the right material to show on the flush eaves. It's definitely an issue that needs to be fixed.

1596563184_HealyHigh FASCIA ADJUST X15.plan

Try letting your roofs auto rebuild or move your roof planes up so the top plate height is 10'. That worked for me. Your roofs are set at a height for a 9' ceiling.

I have this happen a lot too, for various reasons usually.

I think the main issue on this plan is you have a 2" overhang on the gable ends. With 2x subfascia and 1-1/2" fascia 2" isn't enough of an overhang to handle that so I changed the fascia to 1/16" thick assuming metal fascia, that seemed to take care of it. I also went into the materials on the two roof planes and changed the "flush eave" material to white. The flush eave material doesn't always seem to make a difference but I'll change it if I'm having problems.

1596563184_HealyHigh - FASCIA ADJUSTED (2).zip

27 minutes ago, Cadwork22 said:

How can you increase the Top of Plate, is adjusting the ceiling the only way?

The first thing I'd check is if you have the ability to select "Default Wall Heights" in the structure tab of the wall DBX. If you do have the ability to select those that means you moved the wall height manually and it will no longer respond to ceiling heights. If your top plate is too high I'd also check for walls that are selected for "Balloon Through Ceiling Above" in the Platform Intersection dialogue.

17 minutes ago, GeneDavis said:

Thanks, @tundra_dweller, but I tried that and the exterior layers lines are still there.

Hmmm...that's strange. The only other thing I can think of is if your pony wall settings in the default settings are set to something different versus the pony wall settings in the individual walls. I think the individual wall settings will override the default pony walls settings.

Changing to "Walls, Main Layer Only" in ALDO in that view should get rid of the wall surface lines. Unless you want the surface layers on other walls, then maybe play around with changing the line styles/colors in your wall types as needed.

5 minutes ago, JKEdmo said:

I looked at the 3 different "drywall" materials I had in a plan.  2 were identical and 1 different as far as I could tell.  Allowing multiples of same material name makes things a bit confusing.

This is very true. I think I need to go into my template and purge & merge materials so I have a cleaner slate to start with.

7 hours ago, JKEdmo said:

Related question --  Anybody know why duplicate materials show up?  I don't really create extra materials -- at least knowingly -- but they seem to appear on their own.  Concrete for example.

I can't validate either because I'm too lazy to dig into it right now, but I think it could also be from bringing in a library item with a "duplicate" material? It could very well be the eyedropper painting tool like Gene said as well. Either way I always seem to end up with duplicate matching materials in my plans too.